Just hava a few questions on when would be a good time to do a few things or if they should even be touched until something breaks. I have had the truck for going on a year and done a few little things like HPOP seals and Fuel bowl seals. I was Planning on doing the .50c mod this summer along with Crank case vent mod this summer. Truck has a few issus popping up like what feels like a miss/rough idle, low power at times, etc. I'm hoping it is .50c or CPS. I also smell a burning smell after the turbo has been enguaged which makes me think the exhaust or uppipes are leaking or something however the the Truck starts fine and at times runs great. anyways I was wondering about the following as truck just rolled 290,000;

First is Injector Cups - Should they be replaced as a preventive measure or left alone until a failure happens?

Injector O-Rings - I do not know when they were done last or what shape they are in. If truck runs right after above is solved should it be left alone or done just for piece of mind?

Injectors - Again same as o-rings

I am working through things as money permits but want to plan ahead a little and wanted some input on these. Please let me know your thoughts and thanks to all as I love this site as it is very informative.

 

Cups, orings and injectors should all be left alone I until they need to be replaced.

Some times the basic things are over looked. Fix boost leaks, check oil fuel pressure etc. these things will point you in the right direction

 

what he said...
keep in mind i did a lot of mods using preventive maintaince as the reason
(and she bought it)

 

Hey Joey, ya better hope she doesn't read the forum when you ain't around.

 

I think torquing down your injectors will help the life of the injector o-rings. When I pulled my injectors, there were a few o-rings that were brittle or looked to be in less than great shape. I believe that having re-torqued the injectors helped snug things up on the worn rings so I didn't have any issues.

I replaced my injectors at 330k for preventative maintenance. It made no difference in how the truck drove or fuel economy. I didn't bother with replacing the cups since they didn't have any issues.

 

[quote=stinson 108-1;12851120]Hey Joey, ya better hope she doesn't read the forum when you ain't around.[/qu


dough!!!!!!!...If she does

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I will not worry about them at this time then. First step is get the codes read and I will be sure to torque everything when I do the .50c mod

 

Good strategy. Other things you might want to think about are replacing fluids such as rear differential, brake fluid, power steering fluid (it's actually ATF in our trucks), and maybe the tranny fluid / filter.

As for starting yourself out on mods, well, start with a more open intake like a DIY 6637 ($90) or the Ford AIS ($200), do a high pressure oil crossover (HPX) hose (about $60), and an AIH delete ($5-15 depending on what plug you buy). Then you can move up to your exhaust like maybe a Walker BTM straight-through muffler (about $100 if a shop installs) or a 4" turbo-back exhaust ($200 on sale for aluminized.

 

Hutch mod... May as well do harpoon mod too. It only makes sense to make sure ever thing is in top notch condition before you add anything...

 

So, what is the correct torque setting for the injectors?

 

22in-lbs jhgfdjsdghjgkhjlkhgjdshkjlh; at least 10 chars....

 

120 in/lbs for the injector hold down bolts.

20 ft/lbs for the rocker arm pedestal bolts.

 

torque specs for injector hold down bolts are 120 in-lb

 

The last link in my signature may give clues on where to look for rough running/power loss.

As for the torque: 120 inch pounds... I won't forget that spec for the rest of my life (long story).

 

The following is my suggestion and opinions. I agree with what has previously been stated. Work on getting a great foundation to build from. Making sure all the fluid and filters have been changed out. Find and fix all fluid, air and exhaust leaks. Make sure the brakes and suspension isn't worn out. Once you have a good platform to work from then start with the mods. I started with the 6637 air filter upgrade. This filter system gave about 1.5-2mpg more than the stock system. Next I did the CCV mod. The only draw back is that in Nevada I have to disconnect it and hook it back up to factory when the smog test is require (PIA). The next mod was the oil crossover (HPx) line which helped smooth out the engine. I then moved over to the Hutch and Harpoon mods along with the Frx fuel cross over and those mods really helped out the fuel system and the overall performance of my truck. I used to get an exhaust smell in the cab and found that the up pipes where leaking, took those apart and installed new seals...No more exhaust smell in the cab, Part of the maintenance program is cleaning out the EBPV tube and sensor. I also add oil analysis from Blackstone on the engine and tranny oils. These reports state whether fuel or coolant is leaking into the engine oil and state how well your filters are doing their jobs. Small price to pay for the extra insurance.
My last item is that I bought the AE with the enhanced Ford bundle. I'm currently learning how to use this diagnostic tool.
After 7 years of ownership I have a better maintained truck, a safer ride and one that I get every MPG from. I have both an early 99 with 266,000 miles on and a late 99 with 195,000 miles on and I have not yet had an injector issue or trans issue. Maintenance is the key. My trucks do get worked hauling a 9' campover camper or pulling the goose neck horse trailer. Hope this helps give insite and points you in the right direction.

Jeff