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I got a refurbished Hobart welder for about $500 2 years ago. It comes set up for flux core but comes with a regulator so when you want to get shielding gas you just have to buy a tank. Its done everything ive wanted to too so far. Itll weld up to 1/4" steel
I got a refurbished Hobart welder for about $500 2 years ago. It comes set up for flux core but comes with a regulator so when you want to get shielding gas you just have to buy a tank. Its done everything ive wanted to too so far. Itll weld up to 1/4" steel
Have you done anything as thin as body panels with flux core
I also bought the Eastwood 135 mig. Decent little welder. You could go without their cart and save some $$, but you'll need a helmet, gloves, and a bottle of gas. Mig pliers are very handy, too. The spool of wire it comes with is for use without gas but you'll need 120V @ 25 AMP to run that.
All will work, some requiring more talent than other, some more prep, some more debur.
Stick, only thing i would attempt is shock mount repair with 1/18 7018-R
You can stick sheet metal with 6013-R but if you aren't real good with stick "PASS"
Flux (CAN BE RAN IN A mig MACHINE) core is cheap, but spend the money on a step up in machine. Plan on lots of follow up with a wire wheel, same prep as mig.
Mig: is the best choice as it will be the cleanest and require same prep as any really. Only thing about it is you cant bend the rod and use a mirror for the tricky spots
If you are not already familiar with welding, plan on a real joyride with sheet. I would get some scrap sheet and run an entire 12lb roll before getting at the truck.
Push dont pull, you want the gas on the bead, vertical is always bottom to top as the name implies zig zag or frown face work great.
I have an older, 10-15yrs, Lincoln SP125 I got on Craigslist for $100, bottle and regulator were another $130. I run the smaller .023" wire for body work and exhaust. Everything else I stick weld. Flux works just like mig but its messier and slags up more. I'd shop craigslist for a used name brand rather than a new Harbor Freight unit.
Appreciate the responses. I gotta aim on the cheap. Sounds like mig is way to go, but base model quality name flux (without gas option) is cheaper along with needing more practice and cleanup.
How important is it to move from crap model with the preset options to variable dial options?
rheostat vs digtl, I vote old school. Works and when broken, cheap to replace. Presets are ok, but if you default to a dial (promise) you may never feel/hear a good weld and know it's spot on. If cheap is it, I might go Harbor Freight TIG (new) For the $ you might spend on a shelf welder, you might inquire at the local High-school, or College to see if they might save you time, $ and headaches.
rheostat vs digtl, I vote old school. Works and when broken, cheap to replace. Presets are ok, but if you default to a dial (promise) you may never feel/hear a good weld and know it's spot on. If cheap is it, I might go Harbor Freight TIG (new) For the $ you might spend on a shelf welder, you might inquire at the local High-school, or College to see if they might save you time, $ and headaches.
Not a bad idea. Though i do qc for a bridge building company, so if i want have someone else do it or borrow some real big/good equipment, id go through work. Right now I'm just looking to have something of my own that stays at home.
I'd get a flux core welder that that can be converted to gas in the future. It will cost a little more but it will be worth it. That will allow you to upgrade as the funds become available.
The real cheap flux core units typically cannot be converted.
You'll be happy, they weld just fine for a 110/120V unit. Be aware even though they say aluminum wire is an option. It will not work worth a crap without a spool gun. Don't try it unless you like birds nests,
Get some beads ran and show us what your working with!
Flux doesn't require gas but the prep needs to be just a pretty, take your time with it. Wiping with lacquer thinner after brushing will help a lot.
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