Mate you've already paid the dosh to sort the heads-i'd stick with what you have. How much did you pay to do them up? If you sell them for less than that you've done your dough

 

I want to keep them and use them I just want to know the value incase I need to sell them since I make so little money. Now that I have them back I'm focused on fixing it and getting it street legal so I can you know, enjoy my money.

 

Yup I hate them sitting around-sometimes it just pays to cobble them back together. If the plan is too big it doesn't always happen

 

It's not too big of a swap, I mean a guy that commented on this post said he did it. I wunna do it over summer and I'm gonna try to sell my f100 to pay for it

 

To swap the heads on is fairly easy. Headers, easiest way is to cut the flanges off your old headers and weld on a set of 4v heads (new headers flanges are cheap through summit). Next is with the intake/carb, you will need intake spacers for a 4v cleveland intake, 400 intakes, stock or aftermarket do not have enough material to .cover the intake ports (unless you have a buddy that can weld aluminum and can machine the intake face flat and do the porting work as well). The spacers can be bought from proce motorsports, or you might get lucky with a set off ebay. For the intake, again, cruise ebay for the best buy on a 4v cleveland intake, be sure to get a carb in the 750cfm range too, these are big heads that suck a lot of air, going smaller will affect throttle response and fuel mileage (learn to tune the carb to suit the motor, doe this no matter what you go with). Thelast thing you will need to do is go with a better cam, can't remember what you said about the heads and the valve train, but I would get cam/lifter/matched valve spring kit, go with something like a 265-275DEH from comp cams. This will be the cheapest way to get the most power. You will not blow the bottom end out, the factory pistons will let go first. Factory rods and crank/block are good up to 600hp (this was were mine was at before a aftermarket hyper. pistons fragged).

Performance wise the closed chamber heads are one of the best ever factory heads from ford, yes they do have their limitations and uses, the biggest factor is the compression, open chamber heads for you would be a waste of time due to the lack of compression,but the closed chamber heads make a big difference.

 

Thanks for summing up what needs to be done. As is my passenger header is I useable as 1 'tube' is completely blocked from exhausting. I think it can be fixed since the collector and about 2 inches up are all that's bent but ill probably wind up with a new set here shortly. What other do dads should I upgrade? I want to do a new timing chain, it has a new set of spark wires, an MSD cap and an MSD coil. I can assure what's new since my friend owned the truck before me and his dad is my machinist.

 

You can have closed chamber 2v head that fit stock headers and intake. Australian 2v head. same as the regular 2v head but closed chamber. Check on ebay or with TMeyer, Inc. Precision Automotive Machining .

i have a pic of mine https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...8_312461_n.jpg

 

My heads look like that but what are the chances of them being in my friends shed for 15 years? And the part number went to a mustang

 

look underneath the valve cover for u.s #. I have a book to tell wish one you have. Aussie don't have # under valve cover. Remember aussie head small port, (same has 2v head) and closed chamber (same has 4v head). They are from ford in australia. It's a mix between 2v and 4v head.

Your chance are little because they are rare. Got mine for 200$ on ebay but need full rebuilt.

 

Where 'under the valve cover'? And I have a set of fox body 302 heads I'd like identified.

 

You can't miss it. Just remove the valve cover.

 

Ok. Would it be in the same place as the 302 heads I have? Was told there co TS heads just wunna 2nd word for confirmation.

 

Price wise, you're looking around $1500 minimum to swap the heads.

320 for intake spacers (new)
150 for intake (used)
150 for carb (used) you need a 4 barrel carb now
345 for headers (if you choose that route) sanderson block huggers is what my brother used
200 for cam/lifter kit (brand new)
200 for exhaust (you want it to be street legal)
Few hundred for cylinder head machine work and parts

What do the top of the heads look like? Are they stock pedestal rockers or were they machined for stud mounted rockers? Regardless, there is a good chance you will have to re-align the valvetrain geometry.


Street legal- that brings up another point about emissions. Are there any smog restrictions where you live in florida? If there are, there would be no point in doing the swap.

This is NOT a cheap project. My brother started with a bare 400 block and is doing a complete rebuild. He's spent $3500 so far and still isn't done.

 

If you have the closed chamber 4v heads ? Consider the 400's pistons have a huge dish and are way far down below the top of the deck at tdc. They may need fly cut for the big valves depending on the cam used which would lead into a complete rebuild with a balance job. Even if they get by I'd suspect it will be a real pia to try to tune and will demand a high octane fuel to get by. By the time you crutch the dizzy around to where it might run ok, with the huge valves and slow air flow you will have a puddling effect in the intake runners so you are really going to have to dump the fuel to it and remove a lot of advance and advance speed. Bottom end power will probably suffer and it will likely be a pinger & detonation is always a bad thing in any motor. Basically you are trying to put a high rpm high comp. head on a low rpm low comp. bottom end.

 

No emission worries, we can home make an exhaust system, I have a 4bbl Holley now, and the rest ill worry about when I have money. Mark, are you saying ill need high octane fuel for high compression?