How do u remove ecm from e-150?
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Cross-Country
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How do u remove ecm from e-150?
1989 E-150, 5.0, no a/c, automatic
Can someone help me with pulling codes on this? The engine is cutting out, running rich, and I'm having trouble coordinating between operating the code reader and keeping the engine running long enough to pull codes.
Can someone help me with pulling codes on this? The engine is cutting out, running rich, and I'm having trouble coordinating between operating the code reader and keeping the engine running long enough to pull codes.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2003
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Thanks for the reply.
I did the KOEO test and got:
11
10
11
The CM test was:
11
So, all that is ok.
Now I'm trying to get the KOER codes. My engine runs fine from a cold start. But once it warms up it stumbles, coughs, runs rich, and stalls. I can't seem to keep it running long enough to pull the KOER codes.
I did the KOEO test and got:
11
10
11
The CM test was:
11
So, all that is ok.
Now I'm trying to get the KOER codes. My engine runs fine from a cold start. But once it warms up it stumbles, coughs, runs rich, and stalls. I can't seem to keep it running long enough to pull the KOER codes.
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Cross-Country
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It might, but I'm working alone. So, I'm trying to keep it running while going to the front of the vehicle to operate the code reader. I'll try to manipulate the throttle by hand from the engine compartment. Maybe I can keep it running long enough that way.
Also, it seems I only have one chance in the morning from a cold start to grab the codes. Once it is warm, it won't continue to run.
Also, it seems I only have one chance in the morning from a cold start to grab the codes. Once it is warm, it won't continue to run.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
Thanks for the clarification. In light of the engine running troubles I would check the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Pull off the vacuum line, look for signs of fuel by sight and smell. Replace if necessary. If you can rent a fuel pressure gauge that would also eliminate another possibility.
I know we all profess checking codes, but your situation may require some more basic detective work.
I know we all profess checking codes, but your situation may require some more basic detective work.
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Cross-Country
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Thanks for the replies. I didn't bother testing the fuel pressure regulator. Instead I replaced it and the engine doesn't stall, but the CEL comes on intermittently when the engine is warm and it seems like it wants to stall.
I tried to pull codes, but now the code reader wants to act up. I just bought it too.
But, I think I'm zeroing in on the problem. Possibly fuel delivery. When I tried the KOEO test again, I hear what sounds like one of the fuel pumps running continuously. There are two pumps, one low pressure in the tank and one high pressure on the frame.
Usually, the pump is suppose to run for about 5 seconds when the key is turned to ON. But, I hear the pump noise non-stop. I crawled under the vehicle and tried to feel the tank and the frame pump, but couldn't tell which one is running. And, it also runs sporadically, on, off, on....., off.
So, I wonder if my problem is actually the pump(s) or something else that is communicating with the pumps?
I tried to pull codes, but now the code reader wants to act up. I just bought it too.
But, I think I'm zeroing in on the problem. Possibly fuel delivery. When I tried the KOEO test again, I hear what sounds like one of the fuel pumps running continuously. There are two pumps, one low pressure in the tank and one high pressure on the frame.
Usually, the pump is suppose to run for about 5 seconds when the key is turned to ON. But, I hear the pump noise non-stop. I crawled under the vehicle and tried to feel the tank and the frame pump, but couldn't tell which one is running. And, it also runs sporadically, on, off, on....., off.
So, I wonder if my problem is actually the pump(s) or something else that is communicating with the pumps?
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Cross-Country
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I forgot to add that when I tried to do a KOEO again, it read 300.
Now, this vehicle is suppose to just give 2 digit codes, not 3. And, I couldn't find a 300 among my code book.
So, now I'm wondering if my ECM (Electronic Control Module) is bad. Isn't that the device that tells the pumps to turn on and off?
How would I determine if the ECM is bad? I see they cost around $100.00 for a remanufactured unit. Given the age of this vehicle, I might replace it just for good measure.
Now, this vehicle is suppose to just give 2 digit codes, not 3. And, I couldn't find a 300 among my code book.
So, now I'm wondering if my ECM (Electronic Control Module) is bad. Isn't that the device that tells the pumps to turn on and off?
How would I determine if the ECM is bad? I see they cost around $100.00 for a remanufactured unit. Given the age of this vehicle, I might replace it just for good measure.
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Brett Foote
Fleet Owner
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From: Kentucky
Clean the pins on the Diagnostic Data Link with some contact cleaner. If that does not resolve the communication problem use something more aggressive like a small screwdriver or nail file.
Anytime the fuel pump(s) stay on continuously it is usually a bad PCM (computer).
Anytime the fuel pump(s) stay on continuously it is usually a bad PCM (computer).
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Cross-Country
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Can someone shed some light on how to remove the ECM from my vehicle?
It's contained in a plastic cover inside the passenger compartment, passenger side, below the heater core. I see a ground strap with a bolt, which I removed. But I don't see how the ECM itself is attached.
It looks like everything is pointing to a bad ECM and I'm going to get a remanufactured unit.
Appreciate any replies.
Thanks.
It's contained in a plastic cover inside the passenger compartment, passenger side, below the heater core. I see a ground strap with a bolt, which I removed. But I don't see how the ECM itself is attached.
It looks like everything is pointing to a bad ECM and I'm going to get a remanufactured unit.
Appreciate any replies.
Thanks.
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