Well I hope these work

 

That Pressure gauge Never really left 0psi

It should have alittle Pressure Im thinking 8-12psi would be normal

The Pressure helps with BoilOver and stuff like that you just didnt have any Pressure SO tell me how the Gauge
is tied in was it a Tee Fitting or could there be open fitting at the Degass Bottle

Im Also thinking it would be Best to Check the Pressure at Normal operating temp so that would be ECT at 190* or More

Looked like it wasnt up to temp yet IDK tell me if I am Wrong on the temp


Id try again tommoroww or something But Get the Temp UP
After temp up give it a few WOT Bursts to SEE if it spikes PSI

 

It was tied in with a tee fitting right before the degas bottle. In the second video it was def up to temp, my ects are usually right around 182-184. Also I did a bunch oh WOT bursts and didn't get any spikes, the gauge just stayed around that first mark.

I will try it again tomorrow and see if I get any different results. Any other suggestions or ideas?

 

Your engine absolutely MUST be at operating temperature for the pressure reading on the degas bottle to be meaningful. Also, you must have the proper level in the degas bottle to start with - ie at the minimum (or slightly below) with a cold engine. Benny is correct - the average readings will be around 8-12 psig. Also, your cap can not leak (actually you can not have a leak anywhere in the coolant system) for the test to be meaningful.

 

Ya I wasnt shure what Temp reading that was on the Edge of the SGII screen

If all you did was tie a Tee fitting in and the Hose dont have a Pinhole leak

If it was upto temp and you didnt get any spike at WOT those HeadGaskets are GOOD

Something just seems OFF here you should have alittle Pressure on the cooling system when running and upto Temp IDK

I would take little Pressure vs 16psi+ and Constant Puking

So far all sounds like its checking Out GREAT!!!!

 

Mark is the Guy to ask here on this I know he has done Extensive testing on the Cooling system Pressures

The only thing that makes me wonder is you basicaly have NO Pressure on the cooling system so this makes me wonder about the Coolant bottle Cap or the Gauge itself

Is the CAP NEW??????and OEM part????

 

^That's what I was thinking. Either the cap is leaking out or that gauge isn't working. It just seems weird that there is no pressure at all

 

The Only Kicker I see guys is I thought he said he Also Pumped up the Pressure to 16psi on the cooling system and it Held 16 psi

So that is another Good thing he has Going

 

How was the hose ran from the degas to the inside?
Did it get pinched in the door , window ,or hood?
Also wouldnt a gauge that went from 0 to 30 psi be better to use for this test?

 

There is a way... some guy on you tube does it

 

Ok I'm going to bite, guys tell me if i'm wrong, but if he has blown head gaskets, the psi should go up right away. Weather it was warmed up or not. Just kinda how I see it. I've been wrong before.

 

I was also wondering if the hose was pinched somehow because that barely read anything at all. And boy do I miss my standard. My 94 was stick and that was great.

 

The hose was not pinched. I ran it next to the headlight where there is a small gap for it to pass through. I will take a picture of it later.


As for the gauge, I realize a 0 to 30 would be better, but I ended up having this gauge, I found it in my grandfathers shop. The 0 to 100 should be fine b/c if it was to spike to 16 you would be able to clearly see it.

What I am going to do is hook the gauge up and then put the cooling system test kit on it and pump it up to 16 psi to see if my gauge shows the same pressure. If it doesn't then I will find a new gauge. If it does work I will go test it again.

 

Be aware - Some cheap gauges do not work - right out of the box - especially in the low range. Not saying yours is cheap OR bad, just an fyi,

Coolant expands with heat. If you expand liquid in a fixed volume, it compresses the vapor space and the pressure goes up.

The problem with your test (in the video above) that I see is that you appeared to have installed the gauge on a system that already had hot coolant. If so, the pressure will not rise more than a few pounds during a driving test (on a healthy engine) because you already have the fluid expanded from the heat. Let the engine cool all the way down, vent any residual pressure off of the degas bottle, then drive it until it fully gets up to temp. You will see the pressure rise then.

Have you read the thread in the Tech Folder?

Basically it says to test for a head gasket or EGR cooler leak you should:

Drive it until the engine gets fully up to temp and the coolant has fully expanded.

Then vent the degas slowly and carefully. The degas bottle has a vapor space so it is way more safe to do this than with a radiator cap on a liquid full system ........ STILL - do it slow, use a thick towel, and be safe.

Re-conduct the test, and a tight system will only show a few pounds of pressure increase. WHY??? Because the fluid has already expanded and there is nothing else adding pressure (ie no head gasket leak, and no EGR cooler leak).

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nts-degas.html

Now, all that being said, you do need a functional water pump, accurate colant temperature sensor (EOT), working thermostat, and coolant at the proper concentration (50-60%). This is because at ZERO back pressure on the degas bottle, you have a lower coolant boiling point and it can flash boil in the EGR cooler if you have low coolant flow.

I wouldn't do this test too frequently because any flash boiling at all is going to cause stress on the EGR cooler (localized pressure rises) and also you will have deposits form (fouling). Doing this test only a few times and for short durations should not be an issue.

From your tests in the video, it does not look like you have an issue.

 

The thing is, sometimes you only see a leak when the engine gets hot and/or you hit maximum boost. Small leaks caused by weak head bolts allowing a head gasket to leak, or a small crack in a head can act that way. An EGR cooler leak is more likely (but not always) to act the way you describe (ie you see a pressure rise even at low boost).