So been very happy with the new truck... Till yesterday...

Somone on here had mentioned they were having probems with their belt squealing.. I though, yeah I should probably change my belts, as they're old... Sure enough fired it up that morning and its squealin like a banshee...

So probably new belts and tensioner in the works.


Next issue; noticed a few drips of coolant on the ground. GRRRRR... I just topped up the overflow tank the other day as it was near empty. now the rad seems to be leaking out the passenger side (I was hoping when i saw the drips that maybe the coolant tank had a crack or hole, but a quick look underneath seems to say "no such luck") Odd how it just popped up. not a drop out of it in the last week.

So gonna pull the shroud off and see exactly what is going on... I'm assuming the plastic side tank is dribbling... so my questions are;

New rad, rebuilt, or have this one fixed?

While I have it off might as well do the thermostat, upper & lower hoses, heater hoses are old and stiff, should just do them too (What is the one that goes from the below the Rad cap, and then has a hard steel line that runs over top of the rad and ties into the heater lines?) Can you get replacement heater hoses from the average parts store and do they fit properly?

Course then there is that STUPID little short hose on the water pump, and it looks like it has seen better days, so I might as well do it too so it doesnt leave me high and dry one day... Is it just a peice of heater hose??? Can it be replaced without pulling the water pump? (doesnt look like it) And if not then I might as well grab another water pump and swap it out if the old one looks rough when I pull it....


****Sigh**** amazing how one little thing can turn into a whole project..

Any answers to my questions, or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

well, found a new rad for $190. think I'm gonna leave the water pump for the time being.

Will replace hoses, and thermostat.

Looks like that short hose from the intake to pump is 5/8 heater hose. Felt between the barbs and think I can get a new one in there.

 

What engine do you have?

I'm not fallowing you with this little piece of hose your talking about.


And this isn't a big project. A nice saturday afternoon and this all gets done pretty easily. I did it on my '94 F150. Complete new cooling system. I did need a new thermostat housing those, as mine, that little metal pipe was a lil to rusty for my liking, so I found a good used one and put it on.


As for your rad, it has plastic end tanks right? Get a new one, I wouldn't bother rebuilding, or repairing that. And where did you find one for 190$? Check Rockauto.com!

 

Got a 460.

The little hose goes from the intake right below the T-stat to the water pump.

I know its not a huge project, but still.

Yeah plastic end tanks. $190 is my local parts store. Not sure if there is a refundable core deposit included in that or not.

 

That short hose is called a bypass hose, and should be readily available at your parts store. Heater hose won't work, it's too tight of a bend, and the hose will end up kinking.

 

There is no core on radiators. Get the molded hose as suggested. If you'll have the radiator out, it may be wise to replace the water pump while you're in there, especially if the age is unknown. Not sure if the 460s have the aluminum timing cover like the small blocks do, but if it does, be very careful removing the bolts. Anti-seize is a must when reinstalling them!

 

There is no bend, it's a straight hose, not a right angle bend like the 351

 

You can replace the bypass hose without removing the water pump, but you might have to cut the old one off.
It IS tight, but possible.

If you have the belt off, try turning each pulley by hand and wiggling them around.
If any one feels loose or binding you have likely found the cause of your squeal.

Is it dripping from the relief hole in the bottom of the water pump boss?
This would answer both of your questions.

There are also convolute channels surrounding each water passage at the back of the timing case.
Sometimes a small leak here is hard to diagnose where it's coming from.

If it is the timing case, the bolts are often seized.
Be sure to use a proper harmonic puller and PST on all threads when you put it back.
Check the balancer for scoring where it rides in the FMS and use a Speedisleeve if it appears worn.

 

No the leak is definately not from the water pump. It is the rad leaking on the passenger side. Right between the aluminium crimp and plastic side tank. The colland drips down and out of the lower rad support.

I REALLY dont wanna mess with the water pump as it seems fine ATM. No leaks no noise, and I just dont wanna deal with snapping bolts off...

The squeal is almost certainly coming from the belt(s). They are old, stiff, and brittle. And the tensioner is weak and is angles forward towards the rad when looking at it from the side.

I would LIKE to do the pump, but I see a whole lot going wrong with that. (broken bolts, then having to pull the timing cover, then doing timing set while I'm at it)

I'm kind of at a, "it aint broke so dont fix it" point right now

 

Oh yes, it's a can of worms you don't want to open.

Header tank crimps can sometimes be tightened with a pair of broad billed Vise-Grips.

If the tensioner is worn and out of plane I would change it before it trashes your new belt.

 

Yeah I grabbed a new tensioner and new belts today. The originals were pretty chewed up.

But then I looked at my bill for all my parts... $204 for the tensioner??? That was list price, I got it for $142, but still!!! For a piece of junk repro? No way!

Went to Ford, and got a better quality original for $94... still 'spensive but will probably last much longer than the repro...

 

Well, got her all back together this morning. Seems all is good. No more leaks, and no more squealing belts!

My wallet is a lil lighter, but that's how she goes...

 

My rad had a slow leak in it, I put some ceramic rad sealer in and it fixed the leak.

 

$94 for the tensioner on a '97 460? The most expensive one on RockAuto is a Motorcraft for $60 (#F5UZ6B209A). A Dayco is only $33. If you only needed to replace the tensioner pulley, you could have grabbed one for as little as $10.

 

You can just replace the bearing for cheaper than that. I've noticed that these sites only sell the whole arm assembly. That's why they are so expensive.