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Working on changing the timing gears on a 300 inline 6 (1985). The manual says use a timing gear puller part number T82T-6256-A. The tool seems to be no longer manufactured and I can not find it for sale anywhere. Is there an equivalent tool for the job? It looks like a standard two jaw puller, but with the hooks turned 90 degrees rather than straight out or in. Any information is hugely appreciated.
Welcome to FTE, AllyCat! As Chris stated, this question would be best in the forum he linked to.
However, I will tell you that a two jaw puller with the 90° fingers pointed towards the center of the cam will work. However, be prepared for your cam timing gear to disintegrate because of the fiber and steel construction. There aren't a whole lot of them, especially with age and mileage that make it thought the pull.
Good luck and ask lots of questions after you have searched for what you need!
The gear that's on it has no place for the hooks to grab...the way the pully's shaped, there is a round surface that prevents the puller from hooking onto the gear. I tried hooking outward towards the outside edge...but the gear just wants to come apart. Hoping 'the right tool' will save me some heartache and work lol.
I know what you mean, but I just used the standard two-jaw puller. My gear ended up coming apart in pieces just like many others experience. I did some poking around the internet and came up with this: Cam Gear Puller and Shaft Protector Set 303-185 T82T-6256-A
I'm not sure if it is available still, but at least you have a picture of what the factory tool looks like for reference. I looked to see if OTC, KD, or Lisle made/offered this tool and none of them did.
I appreciate your help and efforts. I did actually come across that link this weekend in my searches. Contacted them and they are the group that told me it's no longer manufactured, though OTC used to produce them. I think this gear is probably going to come apart in pieces, as so many seem to experience. When that happens... any tips on removing the steel center that will remain?
I don't have any tips about the metal center that remains, but you do want to be careful with the camshaft thrust plate that sits right behind the timing gear. They have a tendency to break, and when broken, the camshaft can walk back and forth, grinding against your timing gear cover. AbandonedBronco has a good bit of experience with that issue.
Are you going with a metal timing gear replacement? If so, be prepared to have it sound like you've got a 6-71 blower mounted on your inline 6! They'll whine until they're broken in.
I bought the fiber replacement (i'd heard the metal replacements were terribly noisy), but after the trouble with pulling this fiber one...thinking i might change my mind and go with metal just in case i ever have to pull it again...
The metal ones aren't that noisy. Plus, you can inset a roll pin in the oil hole above the timing gear and it will help direct oil directly onto the gears to help combat the gear noise. A plus to the gear noise is that people who are in the know in Ford trucks will know what you've got under the hood and those who don't, will look at your truck and wonder what you've got going on under there.
Ditto on the thrust plate - they do break easily. You might consider having one on hand just in case. Also, make sure you keep track of the spacer that goes between the cam gear and the camshaft.
Well, the fiber part of the gear has been removed....the steal center ring..firmly on the camshaft. Any tips on removing that? I dread the thought that I'll have to pull the whole cam to remove it, but, not sure i can see another way. Hoping for a miracle here. Any advice appreciated.
I've heard of people using a Dremel or die grinder to cut the remaining material off. If you do that, just make sure you cover everything up to keep foreign material out of your engine.
When mine came apart, I was rebuilding my engine and replacing my camshaft anyway, so I didn't have to do what you get to do next. I wish I could help you more.
was thinking about seeing if i can get a bearing seperator tool behind it... not sure i wouldn't just trash the tool though. Thanks for your advice and input. I may end up just pulling the shaft and having it pressed off, really didn't want to tear into this that far though.
If you're going to end up pulling the cam, I wouldn't put the stocker back in. I'd go with a Comp 260H towing cam and a new set of lifters. With this cam, you don't have to change the stock valve springs, and it doesn't have so much duration that it'll put the motor out of it's power band with the stock 1bbl carburetor. Of course, then you'd have to break the cam in.
Like you say, I'd just see if you could get the leftover gear pieces off of the shaft before you pull it.
I abused a two piece bearing puller and managed to get the rest of the gear off by pinching the puller behind the binding teeth on the metal ring that was left after all the fiber broke away, if that makes any sense at all. Now to see about that bottom gear...should be a cake walk after the mess the cam gear was. Thanks again for all the comments and help.
I abused a two piece bearing puller and managed to get the rest of the gear off by pinching the puller behind the binding teeth on the metal ring that was left after all the fiber broke away, if that makes any sense at all. Now to see about that bottom gear...should be a cake walk after the mess the cam gear was. Thanks again for all the comments and help.
That's good to hear. Yes, the crank gear is easier than the cam gear.
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