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pull the egr valve and inspect it, look for carbon chunks.
ebp goes to possible but not likly. they will cause boost issues more then anything else.
stuck turbo could do it.
icp sensor and or connector freaking out as well is more possible the ebp the way i see it
I was having a simular problem with my truck. There was no CEL or codes coming up. I pulled the EGR valve out and it was really clean. I replace the seal and orings as they had hardened. The intake was dry also so I knew it wasnt the cooler. Cleaned the EBP tube and ran the truck again. It was doing it everytime I stoped while driving. Waited two more days and it was still doing it with no codes. So I took it into a performance shop here and even though the EGR valve was clean It wouldnt Open or Close 100 percent when comanded. So I had to replace the EGR. No problems after that.
I remember you once expressed a mixed opinion over EGR delete or replacement. Have you since come down on one side or another as a preferred remedy? My understanding is that there is an updated EGR valve- if I am correct, has the updated part been any more trouble free?
cheezit & Brandon:
Thanks for taking the time to weigh in. I checked for codes and nothing stored or pending. Like you hinted, EBP appears to be within range. Thanks for the advice - I should pull the EGR valve and take a look at at anyhow- just to see what things look like. I've never had it out.
Definitely not a boost issue - the symptom was not low power, it was totally unresponsive to throttle input.
Of course today it is running perfectly...
The first winter I owned the truck is made a horrible metallic grinding noise after start up- like a main was dry. The noise went away as quickly as it came and I have never heard is sense. On three occasions over the last 5 years it has required a long crank time to start. Friday night it lost throttle response for a half mile.
Apparently this particular unit has a habit of self-diagnosis, reflection, and self-repair.
I would be more frustrated but I just spent the morning working on the front end of the Dodge my mom uses on the stock trailer...
I pulled the EGR valve. Came out easy with an injector pry bar. Dry power carbon residue. No chunks on the valve assembly. Lower assembly / plunger area pretty clean. A lot of buildup around the upper area- but soft carbon. It cleaned up easily.
I inspected the intake with a light and vacuumed it out. Some chunks. Mostly dry. I could press my finger down into a moist mass on the bottom. Smelled like fuel.
FICM numbers healthy. ECT and EOT temperature delta <8 degrees.
Before the symptom arrived, I programmed my Scanguage to read both requested and actual EGR position. But both readings were 0.
Do otherwise clean looking EGRs fail? Is there another test I can do or do I need to roll the dice and spend money on a part I may not need?
Installed clean EGR- Starts and runs perfectly but have not road tested.
More ScanGuage II numbers:
EVM and EVM track closely up to about 53 and back down.
KO EBP 6.2
Idle EBP 9.3
1250 RPM EBP 16.5
What else should I be checking with ScanGuage in effort to eliminate other potential causes of the previous (when at operating temp) loss of throttle response and rough idle above 1200 RPMs?
I ruled out stuck turbo vanes because it builds boost fine when cold. So I know they are free. I checked the ICP sensor harness and it looks / feels good.
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