HA HA HA 10-4 message received and understood

 

I started with Stanadyne with every fill up but it was hard to find when traveling so I switched to Diesel Kleen. A year ago I switched to OPTI-LUB XPD & purchased 4-1gals. I was going to buy another 4-5 1gals & found that they were bought out & the owners jumped the price up form $40 & change to $51.33/gal. & that's a huge jump. I liked the the way it performed but is it worth it?

 

Nope I've had diesels running from -50F to 100F and never seen any benefit from additives. I've tried on occasion but waste of money from my perspective.

 

I use Diesel Kleen when towing my 5th wheel. I don't see, hear or feel any difference but my injectors are having a stiction issue when starting. I'm considering buying the Archoil 9100 as seen in this video. It was "supopsedly" taken by a customer without bias. Not cheap but I need to get this remedied or pay more for new injectors.
See the You Tube segment below.

 

I started with howes then changed to diesel klean right know im going with stanydyne jr I have noiticed better injectors but worse smell out the pipe ,diesel klean burns and smells better,a little better in performence.

 

Stiction is more of an issue with oil not fuel additives but maybe I am wrong anybody can chime in ,the spool valves "stick" to injector on oil side a syn oil like 5w-40 really helped with mine actually eliminated it even in sub zero temps no cold start issues ever and not plugged in

 

So, of all your friends and people you know what percentage use additives?? 10, 20 30...??

 

I'm the only one

 

I wondered why XPD was so much more $$$$ than when i tried while back.
i liked the gal dispensor but couldn't seal it so it stunk up my garage.
I am back to dk (grey) since i am in FL.
Keep it in my garage since it stinks bad in my excursion's jack storage compartment.

 

Hey Tim, I'm doing something similar, but living life on the edge I'm givin my 6.0 a full 32 oz serving of Lucas Semi ATF Lucas Semi-Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid Sure Shift 10052-1 - SummitRacing.com

Not only that, but I'm doing this when I get down to about 1/4 tank then drive it around for a few miles just to work it in real good.

I just Posted a new thread for an explanation.

 

To your point, here's a good explanation seen on the Archoil website.

"Ford Powerstroke High Failure of Injectors and Stiction Explained, By Harry Johnson
The 6.0 liter Ford Powerstroke engine (actually a Navistar International VT365 engine) model was from 2003-2007. This is the Ford Powerstroke engine with the highest failure rate for injectors and stiction issues. The previous model Ford Powerstroke 7.3L engine(also a Navistar International engine), model years 1994-2003 were also prone to stiction issues as well, but not as badly as the 6.0L. In 2003, it was a year that they offered both Powerstroke engines in the same year model, the last of the 7.3L and the introduction of the 6.0L. By 2008 year model, they went away from the HEUI (Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injector) type fuel injectors and went to the most common widely used type nowadays, peizo ceramic electronic injectors, which only have fuel running through them and no motor oil like HEUI type injectors. Many of the International medium duty trucks ran HEUI type injectors in many different models for many years. Ford no longer has a relationship with Navistar International truck and engine, which started to go sour with the 6.0L powerstroke and progressed till it ended in 2010. The 2011 model Ford Powerstroke is now made in house by Ford.
The issue why the 6.0L is more prone to injector issues is due to a few factors.
1. It runs the high pressure engine oil system almost twice as high as it was in the 7.3L Powerstrokes. "4000 psi" in the high pressure engine oil system is achieved instantly when accelerating hard in a 6.0L.(very hard on motor oil), causing shearing of the oil molecules themselves, and can reduce the base oil long and short chain polymers ineffective in a short period of time, thus reducing the oil to a thinner grade, broken down oil.
2. The 6.0L injector itself is also much more complex. It uses 2 internal electric coils to operate the opening and closing of the injector fuel flow via the spool valve (the one that is prone to stiction or sticking and not moving freely as commanded) where the 7.3L Powerstrokes used a return spring to close the injector, and only one coil to open it. The 6.0L injector is capable of much faster reaction times to changing conditions or commands from the engine electronics, than the 7.3 was.
3. This extreme high pressure engine oil system inside the 6.0L engine (which uses a separate high pressure oil pump, called the HPOP) is used to pressurize the fuel within the fuel injector for proper atomization and direct injection into the cylinders.
4. So, in a nutshell, the fuel injector "spool valve" is trying to move back and forth inside the injector while trying overcome anywhere from 700-4000 psi oil pressures being generated. It needs to be clean and slippery inside the very small orifice that the spool valve operates in (Page 43: Fuel Management System). Any contamination can cause sticking, especially when the oil is cold and thicker and isn't flowing as well through the injector. Any wear can cause sticking, or side loading (where it gets stuck due to free play-wear of the spool valve).
5. My theory, if these injectors are capable of breaking the motor oil down on a molecular level, then it’s working very very hard, which will generate heat and varnish build up, especially when the oil is being worked that hard in this small area inside the fuel injector.
6. My normal, fully warmed up engine idling, high pressure oil readings, used to be at 770psi with Rev-X®, but are now reading 790psi with the AR9100 in my oil and I have run the same motor oil from day one (5w40 Shell Rotella synthetic). So the benefits of AR9100 are not only for the rest of the friction generating areas of the motor, but the all so important high pressure oil system of the 6.0L and for the older 7.3L Powerstroke engines, or any mechanical engines or systems for that matter."

 

In my 6.0 I use Opti Lube XPD in the fuel and once a year I will run RevX in the oil. Thats it!

 

I tested 2 cycle while I had bad injectors. The improvement went from marginal (barely pull itself) to drivable with minor miss. That along with the spicer report sold me on adding something for lubricity on my new injectors regardless. So I run 2 cycle non ash (1-oz per gal) and power kleen (1-oz per 3 gal) in every tank. I do these specifically because I can get them anywhere. The power kleen (grey) does improve MPG enough to pay for itself. Oil additive - running Pro Blend currently not not set on what I desire to put in it yet. I also need to do but have not decided yet.

 

I ran the 15w-40 for about 8 months after I bought truck and cold starts where rough on the motor after the switch to syn rotella 5w-40 it made a huge difference in starting cold no stiction and I am a believer in fuel additives, I just can't trust what is "supposed to be in the pump" a little cheap piece of mind and never an injector issue yet, boy I hope I didn't jinx my self, I just knocked on wood and bit my tongue,hope it helps. Again with proper care of the 6.0 it's been great, just don't like the bashing of the motor from people who judge the engine from earlier diesels its just not even in the same ballpark. Love my truck and its all paid for makes it just that much more love able