When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I agree with, Brent. Some folks have money burning a hole in their pocket. The OEM hub lock system really is simple. Even if the auto vacuum lock isn't working, you are still at the same place by buying a Warn or MM hub. Now, if the hubs fail to manually lock, and you cannot rebuild them (this is easy, too), then I can see replacing them.
I did a post on fixing a stiff dial and there are hundreds of good used oem hubs out there. No need for a Warn unless you have to look blingy rolling into the supermarket.
I really appreciate this kind of answer, instead of some short answer that doesn't make sence to newbie to the 4x4 world.
Rep for you
Originally Posted by Nicmike
Several things to check that are free to you:
Look at front springs and see if they are bent over backwards. If so, they are worn out and need to be replaced with a stronger spring like a V or X code.
Check ball joints for wear. Grab tire at 12 and 6 (after jacking it up!!!) and try your best to make it move top-out-bottom-in and bottom-out-top-in.
Check hubs for shot bearings. Pull the tires on front. Grab the wheel studs and try to move it side to side and top to bottom. There should be NO play in the hubs. Then, spin the hub like you are on the Price is Right. It should not make a full revolution after you let go of it. If it spins freely/loosely, they are toast. Listen for any noise louder than a whisper while you turn it rapidly. If they make a grinding or whining sound, they are toast.
Check front sway bar bushings (on the link ends) for wear and dry rot, and lastly see if you have a sway bar in the back. You need one in the back. Period.
Hope this helps, and it doesn't take more than 30 mins to do all of the above.