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Oops! Must have missed that. I was just thinking along the lines that the injectors are driven by oil pressure and there are o-rings in there and the age of the vehicle, maybe it was time to swap out o-rings.
Just trying to brainstorm a little. Have you buzz tested the injectors after the exchange? Just curious as to what you might have heard.
I plan on replacing the rest of my o-rings and line sleeves this summer/fall. Just want to button it up for the next 225k.
Injector o-rings would not be on my PM list. I have changed injectors with 380k miles on them and the o-rings were FINE.
Now, I have justified 'upgrading' injectors at 240k miles for the reason you mentioned!
Just before the turbo in my X tried to spit the exhaust wheel out the downpipe, I did observe some smoke when returning to idle after pulling off the interstate while towing the camper... Clearly it was putting oil in the downpipe at that point - but not sure how many miles it could have been doing that.
Seems like valve guides, etc on the top end would cause noticeable smoke at start-up - but I'm just spit balling now...
Oops! Must have missed that. I was just thinking along the lines that the injectors are driven by oil pressure and there are o-rings in there and the age of the vehicle, maybe it was time to swap out o-rings.
Just trying to brainstorm a little. Have you buzz tested the injectors after the exchange? Just curious as to what you might have heard.
Injector o-rings would not be on my PM list. I have changed injectors with 380k miles on them and the o-rings were FINE.
Now, I have justified 'upgrading' injectors at 240k miles for the reason you mentioned!
Just before the turbo in my X tried to spit the exhaust wheel out the downpipe, I did observe some smoke when returning to idle after pulling off the interstate while towing the camper... Clearly it was putting oil in the downpipe at that point - but not sure how many miles it could have been doing that.
Seems like valve guides, etc on the top end would cause noticeable smoke at start-up - but I'm just spit balling now...
Well for some reason I can't believe it would be the turbo cause I did rebuild it ~50k miles ago. Think I could look inside the intake side of the turbo and look for oil residue? I know it will not say if the exhaust side it leaking but it is a start.
Might not be a bad idea to buzz test them and rule out an issue with the injectors even though you just did work on them not long ago. I just am lost as to where the oil is going. Like I stated previously, I have not had an oil consumption issue. I did have an antifreeze in the oil issue, that an oil cooler o-ring kit cured. But never a loss of oil. You have me very curious as to what is going on there.
This may be stupid and irresponsible, but its true. I dont even think I have checked my oil in over a year. I just change it every 7500k or so, and I am putting 25k a year on it. Im sure I checked it a lot during the first year of ownership, and noticed no consumption then, and I dont leak any, so I dont even check it anymore. Ok Im going to go check my oil now.....
I bought my 01 new and have 180+k and use 15-40 Dello and change at 5k. never added oil running light. If I run 5k pulling the 5th wheel it will use 2 qt to stay on the full line. I think they all vary a little
That is interesting, never heard of such a thing. IDK if maybe the 5w-40 is too thin maybe. IDK if maybe I should go back to 15w-40.
At operating temp, there shouldn't be that much difference in the viscosity of 5w and 15w, because that viscosity is based on extreme cold. Not sure how close they are at standard ambient temps in your area. but I'll look up a chart later this morning showing the viscosity vs temp for each.
I've heard that going to rotella T6 from regular rotella can cause leaks. Now let me clarify, it does nothing to cause leaks, it just isn't as forgiving to older worn Orings in the system. It will seep out places the regular rotella could not. I bet it's the same with delo.
And I'm sure rings are one of the places it seeps through as well, so that may explain it if there are no visible leaks. I also don't think it has to do with the viscosity, I think it's the different lubricity between traditional oil and the new synthetics. I'd say it's worth a shot switching to a non synthetic for 10,000-15,000 (next two changes) and see what happens. Might find something that works better for your truck.
And I'm sure rings are one of the places it seeps through as well, so that may explain it if there are no visible leaks. I also don't think it has to do with the viscosity, I think it's the different lubricity between traditional oil and the new synthetics. I'd say it's worth a shot switching to a non synthetic for 10,000-15,000 (next two changes) and see what happens. Might find something that works better for your truck.
Possibly am going to do this. The only bad thing is that I am 2600 miles into a 10k mile oil change so it will be a little while.