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Well, I have posted on here before, its been a while, but I have a 66 f100 with a 390, mild cam, aluminum intake, and edlebrock 650 cfm carb. Still hase the stock 3spd behind it. I havent had any problems but I was curious as to how much torque those transmissions can handle.balso, we cant find the problem but when I start it, it idles at about 550-600 rpm. It will stay there for a few minutes of regular driving but I find that when I get to school (2 miles) its idling at 900-1000 rpm. It seems like it doesnt do it until its warmed up. Excuse my spelling im on a cell phone.
Well, I have posted on here before, its been a while, but I have a 66 f100 with a 390, mild cam, aluminum intake, and edlebrock 650 cfm carb. Still hase the stock 3spd behind it. I havent had any problems but I was curious as to how much torque those transmissions can handle.balso, we cant find the problem but when I start it, it idles at about 550-600 rpm. It will stay there for a few minutes of regular driving but I find that when I get to school (2 miles) its idling at 900-1000 rpm. It seems like it doesnt do it until its warmed up. Excuse my spelling im on a cell phone.
Your idle @ start up should be higher (950-1200) or so as it warms up while riding on the high speed idle cam. You should always set the idle at normal operating temp. If the carb is setup right and the linkage to the carb from peddle not to tight (as aluminum intake may expand and create a tug ?) and this warmer temp runningcontinues to have a higher idle, I would begin to look things like, a vac signal at the distributor at idle (should be none) and this will pull the advance of the timing, a vacuum leak & sign of lean running A/F mix on the plugs (white'ish) film rather than tan.
Your idle @ start up should be higher (950-1200) or so as it warms up while riding on the high speed idle cam. You should always set the idle at normal operating temp. If the carb is setup right and the linkage to the carb from peddle not to tight (as aluminum intake may expand and create a tug ?) and this warmer temp runningcontinues to have a higher idle, I would begin to look things like, a vac signal at the distributor at idle (should be none) and this will pull the advance of the timing, a vacuum leak & sign of lean running A/F mix on the plugs (white'ish) film rather than tan.
Sure other will have advice to add. BOL
That might help. If this helps anymore it has the pertronics electronic ignition and last time we pulled the plugs it was rich (and I mean rich) so we cleaned them the best we could and regapped them and we havent looked since but it still smells really rich. Oddly enough it still runs just fine choked. I dont know if this helps but maybe.