Patch panels
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
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From: Kershaw, South Carolina
Patch panels
Well I am trying my hand at patch panels today. The whole ps front corner of the cab needs rebuilding. Surprisingly the rockers are in great shape though. I have everything cut out and getting ready to try to put it back together. Did I mention I have never welded before. This should be interesting. Pictures to follow.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
Likes: 422
From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
Unless you need to sell the truck for top dollar to pay for a life-saving operation, I'm sure the results are going to be just fine. You'll get better with experience so I would suggest you do one patch completely before moving on to the next. Go slow and practice just a bit before going 'live' on your truck.
DW
DW
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 2
From: North Idaho
And remember, your working with thin sheet metal, it is best to tack weld your patches in to minimize warping, then tack between the first tacks, then again and again until it is welded in solid. Your finished results will be much better.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
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From: Kershaw, South Carolina
I tried to put the pictures in the post,but for some reason it just will not work tonight. I updated my albums and gallery with the pictures. They are certaily not pretty, but most of it will be covered. I hope they hold!!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,888
Likes: 3,133
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
If you're looking for pre-made patch panels Northern Classic Trucks makes pieces the entire corner of the cab. Since you've never welded before I'm assuming you have never made patch panels:
Ford Truck Parts and Repair Panels for your classic truck at Northern Classic Trucks
Ford Truck Parts and Repair Panels for your classic truck at Northern Classic Trucks
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
I couldn't find the pic in your gallery. Which album is it in? I won't pretend to be a master welder and give you advice in that arena. You may already know this, but be cautious when you repair a panel anywhere new a moving part or important body seam. "such as a door". Things can really move around when you are welding in patches, if they didn't already when the panel rusted out.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
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From: Kershaw, South Carolina
In the albums I think it is in the one titled Fat manIFS install. I know things can move and as rusty as it was things probably had moved. I just hope things will line back up. If not I will drop back and punt.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Just make sure you square things up, tack in a temp brace, install the door, use clamps, whatever it takes to line stuff up before you finalize panel welds. Just checked out the PIC. Not a bad first attempt at all.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,888
Likes: 3,133
From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
My one bit of advice. Don't butt weld panels together, especially if you've never welded panels together before. I've doing body work for many years, some professionally, mostly on my own stuff. I've always lap welded panels. What I mean by this is I overlap the sheet metal by about a 1/4" and then spot weld about 2" apart and then spot weld in between each spot weld until you pretty much have a solid weld.
In my present project I read a bunch of posts about butt welding was the best way so I decided to try it. Yeah, if you have a whole weekend of 10 hour days or get paid by the hour to do one stupid panel. The argument is that butt welds are easier to work with and lap weld are places for rust to form. This, IMO, is total BS. After blowing through the metal numerous times the inside panel has a thousand bits of welding wire jutting through the other side and no way to get at them. There is a place for rust to start.
In my present project I read a bunch of posts about butt welding was the best way so I decided to try it. Yeah, if you have a whole weekend of 10 hour days or get paid by the hour to do one stupid panel. The argument is that butt welds are easier to work with and lap weld are places for rust to form. This, IMO, is total BS. After blowing through the metal numerous times the inside panel has a thousand bits of welding wire jutting through the other side and no way to get at them. There is a place for rust to start.
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 2
From: North Idaho
My one bit of advice. Don't butt weld panels together, especially if you've never welded panels together before. I've doing body work for many years, some professionally, mostly on my own stuff. I've always lap welded panels. What I mean by this is I overlap the sheet metal by about a 1/4" and then spot weld about 2" apart and then spot weld in between each spot weld until you pretty much have a solid weld.
In my present project I read a bunch of posts about butt welding was the best way so I decided to try it. Yeah, if you have a whole weekend of 10 hour days or get paid by the hour to do one stupid panel. The argument is that butt welds are easier to work with and lap weld are places for rust to form. This, IMO, is total BS. After blowing through the metal numerous times the inside panel has a thousand bits of welding wire jutting through the other side and no way to get at them. There is a place for rust to start.
In my present project I read a bunch of posts about butt welding was the best way so I decided to try it. Yeah, if you have a whole weekend of 10 hour days or get paid by the hour to do one stupid panel. The argument is that butt welds are easier to work with and lap weld are places for rust to form. This, IMO, is total BS. After blowing through the metal numerous times the inside panel has a thousand bits of welding wire jutting through the other side and no way to get at them. There is a place for rust to start.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 432
Likes: 1
From: West London, England
Have you read AX Racers article on MIG welding
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
Read this, get some scrap metal and spend a day practising
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html
Read this, get some scrap metal and spend a day practising
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
I have always butt welded patches in, but it can be tedious with a MIG welder. You need to try to find a way to seal up the backside no matter what method you use, or it will be a potential future spot for future rust (in most climates anyway).
Welder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 50
From: northwest MT
Bob, I saw your post on the HAMB and agree for the most part...lap welding is much easier with a mig. Especially if you have a panel flanger. I do it both ways, usually butt....depends on the job. With butt welding, getting the patch to fit right is half the battle. Very time consuming..
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
Likes: 124
From: Iowa
Bob
What is your welding setup? Welder? Are you using .023 wire? 75/25 Argon/CO2 shielding gas?
Just curious. I'm not trying to pretend butt welding sheetmetal is simple because it isn't. Just curious if you are making it harder than it needs to be somehow.
What is your welding setup? Welder? Are you using .023 wire? 75/25 Argon/CO2 shielding gas?
Just curious. I'm not trying to pretend butt welding sheetmetal is simple because it isn't. Just curious if you are making it harder than it needs to be somehow.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Central Oregon
I had to patch the same corner on my 50 (never done body work until this truck). I bought the patch panels (I had to do the hinge pillar too) from Classic Haulers. It went fairly smoothly. I had to re-contour the angled portion that will be behind the front fender ( had to cut a wedge out of it to get the angles right), but it went pretty smoothly.
Also, check the other side closely. They collected all kinds of crud when the drain holes got plugged. I thought my driver's side was solid until I started sanding, then I found the pin-holes. I had enough material left over from the passenger side panel to make a panel for the driver's side too.
Also, check the other side closely. They collected all kinds of crud when the drain holes got plugged. I thought my driver's side was solid until I started sanding, then I found the pin-holes. I had enough material left over from the passenger side panel to make a panel for the driver's side too.