I need info on this engine I am faceing and engine replace and am weighing my options and price's and help would be a great help.

Option's are as follow's
Ford crate motor $13,117.65
or
Black Mamba crate motor

Advise gentelman please

 

Don't know anything about Black Manna but google search all I see are red flags.

 

You have a fairly good following in the other thread. Most of the time you will lose people by starting new threads. But,,, for your time frame,,, the ford would be it. I did my time in your shoes,,, I'm a picky ******* also. If you are gonna absolutely rely on your truck (like I do), and you have no desire to do the work yourself,,, the only place I would want would b ford. If you do the ford,,, it comes with a nationwide warranty,,, which means, if an injector craps out,,, pull in a dealer n get it fixed. If you have anywhere else do it and you have an issue,,, then what???? Tow the truck to their shop??? My only option was to do it myself. I paid the rebuild shop 1700 to bore 10 over, polish crank, total valve job, and shortblocked it,, delta camshaft in wa state 200 to fix my BADLY damaged cam, Tousley ford in MN $4400 for all the overhaul parts(everything meaning overhaul kit (its not as complete as i thought it should be so i bought the following stuff also),rockers, lifters, valves, valve seats, pushrods, front cover, lpop, valve bridges, ect, ect. 500 to eds ficm repair. I would need to be home to document it all,,, but I did a bunch of extras that were just that,,,,extra. But believe me, you get what you pay for. I did exactly what you are doing. I first priced the ford,,,, then saw I can get an engine from such n such place for a lot less. The price difference at such n such place doesn't mean it's a better deal,,, just means it is less goods. If need be, ford also has shortblocks, long blocks,,,, If I was gonna buy an engine again,,, it'd b ford. Heck with those companies that only care about you until your card number is given to them. I will have the machine shop shortblock mine next time, n assemble n install myself. If the bare min is done,,, I think it could b done for about $5k. Did you have time to read the fiasco I got put thru during my rebuild. It's engine removal pics,,, prob page 9 or 10,,, not sure tho.

 

Well crap,,, my fault,,, you did good,,, I forgot your first post was on the sd side. You needed a thread in this forum.

 

Listen to this Man^^^^

Why do you need an Engine???Hydrolocked or Bad lifter or something????

 

All they have told me as of yet was there was 14 quarts to much oil/fuel in oil , two dead cylinders and it won't start
and I said well no chit

I am really not understanding why the gauge's were all reading correct and no check engine light came on !@#$%^&

It started to tap then knock and smoke grey got to Bagg's Wyoming thinking bad fuel -Fueled and add power service and power service 911 let it run while we where having breakfest and it died.did'nt start after that.

 

Fuel in oil and 2 dead cylinders..... I guess you have a start, pull those injectors.

 

Ditto on that. He knows how to get around a Block. That is some good info if ya really do need a new engine. I have 250,000 on mine and not even sweating a thing. Even after a half a million miles I won't tear into mine.

 

Have a look at this might help......
Blackwater Engines - Remanufactured -

 

Clean it up drain fluids and fix those 2 injectors to start... I doubt it would need a full blown engine!

 

Also while you have it down do a compression test on that
side with all the glow plugs removed. In fact you should
go and do all 8 so you know where you stand. If the compression
comes back good I would replace the bad injectors and run with it.

Note on compression testing. There are ways to do the test so you
can tell if the problem is the rings or the valves. Bad rings and you
pull the motor. Bad valves and it just a valve job or head replacement.
That can save you a lot of money if you only need head work.

Sean

 

If I was in your shoes and it was a $13k repair, my truck would be one of those "runs good just needs 2 injectors, won't start" ones that people always post in their "should I buy this truck" thread... lol

 

Yes there is a way..You take a compression reading with the cylinder dry, then squirt a little motor oil in the injector hole, this will help seal the rings if worn, take a second compression test. If the pressure readings come up the problem is the rings, if it dosn't come up the problem is the valves..

 

Still better if you have access to a leak down tester.
You don't have to oil the cylinder to test. It a simple process
you hold at TDC apply air at a fixed rate listen for the leaks
and compair the input pressures to the cylinder pressure
Here is a little bit about it on Wikipedia
Leak-down tester - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Here is a nice YouTube about 11:00 in

Sean

 

Please don't consider that. Corey got one from them. My son could do better.