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Neutral start switch

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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:30 AM
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Neutral start switch

Couple questions on the neutral start switch:

Where does it plug in? It's not right at the switch. I'm feeling the wire go up perhaps where the removable lower dash/steering column cover go.

Second, how do you technically adjust it?

Thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:32 AM
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What year? 73-77 are under the dash, 78-79 are on the side of the trans.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:34 AM
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If it's under the dash, there is a 4 wire flat connector, like a trailer connection, that it plugs into.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 11:41 AM
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The 77.5-79 NSS plug is located on the firewall, above and to the right of the heater blower motor.

You can see it just behind the carb, to the left, on the firewall.

 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
If it's under the dash, there is a 4 wire flat connector, like a trailer connection, that it plugs into.
Somehow mine snakes up into a crevice that i cannot reach! should it be tucked into that tight a place. almost like its in behind one of the brackets for the steering column. I tried taking off the 'modesty panel' thing but it's up much higher than that. Is the plug attached to anything, through a connector??
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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The plug that the switch plugs into, the one in the picture, is part of the main wiring harness and hangs down just above the steering column.
It's not tucked up in a tight area unless a PO has done something.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:21 PM
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If you have the under dash style, it would be connected directly to the steering column.

I believe the end Mike showed, is the end that goed into the wiring harness.

 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
The plug that the switch plugs into, the one in the picture, is part of the main wiring harness and hangs down just above the steering column.
It's not tucked up in a tight area unless a PO has done something.
Crap. Mine is shoved in a crevice that it shouldn't be in. I knew something was wrong. It's up near where the speedometer cable plugs into the back of the cluster. Yup, previous owner issue...
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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Glad you found it.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 07:29 PM
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i really didn't find it till later. What had happened is that there is some sort of flexible wire retainer way up under the column that it was tucked under. I think it was meant to be there, honestly. Damn thing was hard to get out!

Checking some resistances:

It looks like the Blue on Red wires have two spots for "0" resistance, which should be neutral and park.

It looks like the Red on Black wires have one spot for "0" resistance (between the spot where the wires had shown no resistance), for reverse.

Assuming I hook everything back up correctly, i should be having reverse lights. Grounds are all good at the sockets. I know one socket is bad, perhaps other one is too... There are couple more connectors to check - one under engine bay and one close to back fender.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 09:45 AM
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Does that switch also run the backup lights? My truck will start in gear and I have no bu lights.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by alchemist1
Second, how do you technically adjust it?
Set the parking brake, put the truck in reverse, and turn the key to RUN (truck OFF). Have a buddy stand behind the truck so he can see your backup lights.

Get to the bottom of the steering column and loosen the screws on both sides. Push the switch body all the way to the left, then slowly move it to the right until your buddy sees the backup lights come ON. Mark that point, and keep pushing it to the right until he sees them go OFF. Center the switch halfway between those two points and bolt it down.

If the reverse lights are aligned, the START circuit will be aligned too.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 05:02 PM
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thanks FMC. That is a very good method.

Update on the backup lights: I jumpered the red on black wires (for b/u lights) and put key to RUN. Testing back at the socket, no voltage when testing the socket ground and B+. However, when testing the socket B+ and the ground screw right at the back light housing, I get voltage. So somewhere between the socket and the ground screw, I have weak/no ground. Suspecting the socket.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
Set the parking brake, put the truck in reverse, and turn the key to RUN (truck OFF). Have a buddy stand behind the truck so he can see your backup lights.

Get to the bottom of the steering column and loosen the screws on both sides. Push the switch body all the way to the left, then slowly move it to the right until your buddy sees the backup lights come ON. Mark that point, and keep pushing it to the right until he sees them go OFF. Center the switch halfway between those two points and bolt it down.

If the reverse lights are aligned, the START circuit will be aligned too.
Awesome instructions!

Originally Posted by alchemist1
thanks FMC. That is a very good method.

Update on the backup lights: I jumpered the red on black wires (for b/u lights) and put key to RUN. Testing back at the socket, no voltage when testing the socket ground and B+. However, when testing the socket B+ and the ground screw right at the back light housing, I get voltage. So somewhere between the socket and the ground screw, I have weak/no ground. Suspecting the socket.
I had to replace about 4 complete sockets on my truck. Just remember to use dielectric grease liberally once you get it all figured out.

 
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