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1981 Ford E 150 Heater Core replace

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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 08:25 AM
  #1  
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turbogus
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Laughing Gas
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
1981 Ford E 150 Heater Core replace

Hi gang form Oregon~the shower me state. Well, just as my Jeep is going into the shop "Easy Bake"



decided to start leaking at the heater core from the smell of it. I've done a heater core on this van about 12 years ago but the manuals I have fail to detail removal installation. As I recall it was a bugger to get the plenum out of the cab and there were other difficulties that by now I have forgotten. Does anyone have a procedure, know the tricks and traps, or know of an accurate resource?

Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2013 | 10:39 AM
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95e150CW
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From: Outside of Memphis, TN
I'm fairly certain that step one at most assembly lines for cars is: Hang heater core on hook, and build the rest of the car around it.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2013 | 09:06 AM
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
WOW! The heater plenum came out like a snap! This has got to be the easiest heater core replacement of any car/truck/van I've ever done (the toughest? my '78 Jeep Renegade)

The TRAP~Locating a CORRECT Brass/Copper heater core. Tried the local NAPA, and while they didn't have the next town's NAPA did. While on the phone I asked Jim (NAPA) to verify that it was brass/copper and they affirmed. After work went to Albany and...... Made in China aluminum that was smaller and the hose extrusions were not correct.
Had a similar issue with a water neck for my AMC 360 (Jeep), THREE tries at NAPA yeilded three made in China water necks EACH differing in the angle on the radiator hose extrusion, none of which was correct! Ultimately had to got to the boneyard and pull one from a 401.

Does anyone have a resourse for this BRASS/COPPER heater core for;
1981 Ford E-150 w/4.9L (300ci) no AC?

Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid for yours responses!
 
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Old Jan 27, 2013 | 03:12 PM
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turbogus
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
Well, it turned out that Angie at O'Reileys ordered the two available brass/copper cores available, they had to order in but it was same day shipping (likely from Salem or Eugene) the first being three inches longer (HD heater) and would've fit but I would've had to modify the bracket 1/2 inch with plumber's tape that I did have at home (got some at the depot). Ultimately had to relocate a hole in the plenum for a tighter fit, previous owner used windshield rope (remember that stuff?) to hold fast the heater core in it's loose end bracket. O'Reiley's had no problem with the exchange as I only test fit the larger core and it didn't get crummy. SO far so good though. One thing about this Ford heater plenum removal and heater core replacement, it was a damsight easier that the three day project on "Black Betty" my '78 Jeep Renegade.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 08:34 PM
  #5  
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i've had some easy jobs and some hard ones. these old vans are as simple as can be - remove right battery, remove a handful of nuts from inside, slide heater box out of vehicle.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 12:29 PM
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I did the heater core on my 79 E-150 and pulling it out was real easy. Just a few bolts and screws.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 07:26 AM
  #7  
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locknkey
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turbogus ...that Van looks like my 81 only it's Red and is a E250 with 16.5" wheels...and no windows, seems it makes you have to stop at every stop sign and there is always a blind spot lurking in the shadows...
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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From: Albany, Good Ol' USA
Originally Posted by locknkey
turbogus ...that Van looks like my 81 only it's Red and is a E250 with 16.5" wheels...and no windows, seems it makes you have to stop at every stop sign and there is always a blind spot lurking in the shadows...
Yeppirs there's a lot of this body style out there, what sets thisne apart is it came equipped with one of the RUG/RAB 3+1 Overdrive manual transmissions with the stick coming out of the floor like a pickup. The trouble with this is when the bushings in the shifter went bad, had to graft a Hurst 4 speed stick onto the transmission.



I later added a Warsteiner Dunkel bier tap handle to the stick to get adequate height to match the original height of the original shifter. It was only later that I learned I probably could've used a Lokhar shifter.

 
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