I heard that if I reflash my computer in my truck to the latest software? It would solve my cold starting issues. 1st off, what is a reflash, and what does it do?

 

The computers in the truck run on software that is stored in memory. Loading new software into the memory is called "flashing" the memory. Re-flashing is just over-writing the existing software with the latest version. I have the latest versions of software running in my truck since I had serious injector issues with it in May. It starts very well in cold weather, and it gets good economy in most situations - I can get 21 0r 22 mpg in ideal highway cruising. Part of good cold starts in perhaps a loss of fuel economy when cold starts are in play - the injectors are commanded to run a richer mixture and lots of short trips and cold starts in the morning do not lend towards great fuel economy. Other things that aid cold start performance is the vanes on the turbo are kept closed to create back pressure and warm up the engine faster, and the transmission goes to an alternative fourth gear that is higher rpms than normal fourth gear ( I think it's kind of over-drive third) to warm up faster.

Obviously the dealer will do the flash software update, and probably will charge for the pleasure. It's just plugging a computer into the OBDII port and pushing a button, but there you go...

Brian

 

Did you notice anything with the Turbo PSI gauge running higher after your flash?

 

Thanks for the info Brian, did you get your injectors fixed? Or did the flash put everything where it needs to be for your truck? I need to test my FICM because i think i have a bad one. Do you ever have to use your block heater to get good cold weather starts, or no?

 

I had bad cold start issues unless my truck was plugged in. Turned out my FICM was bad and I needed two batteries. They do the reflash at the dealership when they replace the FICM. I have read a lot of good posts on here about sending the FICM out. Lot cheaper then dealing with the dealership.

 

I noticed no change in the turbo gauge reading, it is under 10 psi most times and peaks at 28 if I am on it hard while towing a trailer (mostly if it down-shifts while the cruise is on when going up a steepish hill). My issues were fuel pressure related, the fuel pressure was down to 40 psi at full power. About two weeks after I bought the truck I was on a long trip towing around 8K and got into some pretty good hills - 8% to 10%. That damaged the injectors and they just started failing, one every 100 miles or so. After the third one failed (two were replaced at Ford dealers on my route) I gave up and we had it transported back to the selling dealer, who replaced all 8 injectors, the HFCM and installed the blue spring. I was aided in this effort by the Ford engineer responsible for the 6.0 PSD who diagnosed the root cause, and helped us get the right fix in place. The dealer picked up the tab for the transport (around 600 miles) and all the work done not only at his shop but also at the two other ford dealers who failed to test the fuel pressure correctly.

I have used the block heater but at the temps we've seen so far it hasn't really made a noticeable difference. That's down to around -10 F. I get a fast crank, fires after about a second, rattles for two seconds and then it's a normal smooth idle. It goes to an automatic high idle around 1100 rpm after the glow plugs turn off. No smoke, some condensation as it warms up. I am currently using Rotella T5 0W-40 oil, which is available here in Canada. My FICM never varies from 48 - 49.5 at any time.

 

I think I am starting to have turbo issues then. I had my sled in the back of my truck doing about 65 on a 7% or so grade for about three or four miles and I was around 28 PSI, but on flat ground passing a line of cars I got on it hard and it almost pushed 30PSI... Seems to run a higher PSI in town too. (8-12)

My truck wouldn't even start when it was 30 if it was unplugged, now it will start at -5 so far I have found w/o being plugged in. Lots of condensation still but I see everyones car/truck doing that right now. It was -4 when I got to work today. BUURRR!

 

Courtney, you probably have to clean the unision ring that controls the vanes in the turbo. What you have is a sign of it sticking too far open, as I understand it.

Brian

 

What would be a resonable cost to have that done.
Thanks,

 

Agreed, 30 psi is too high on stock hg's. 28 should be your max and it shouldn't be hitting that but under hard acceleration or while towing on a steep grade and pushing her.

 

That is what I was told too, now I am worried. My snowmobile weighs a bit, but not as much as my toyhauler and I never have seen it get that high towing the same hill in the past. Now I have to be careful and watch it so it doesn't get to high. Passing cars on flat ground I had to let off becuse it was getting too close to 30..

 

Made my appointment with my dealer to have it reflashed. Also bought batteries today and it starts A LOT better. But i need to have it reflashed for the fact that i cant get a CEL on anything i do. I pull all kinds of plugs and cant seem to get that CEL to trip on. So i need an update. Will keep you all posted on whats goin down in this trailerhood.