The idle on my '83 2.0L Ranger had a tendency to race both while driving and warming up. Usually, tapping the pedal would bring the idle speed down to normal. Lately, though, this did not work while stopped at a light, but still did while warming up. Then, the other day while warming it up I got a call and went inside where I could hear better. While talking on the phone I did not notice that the engine rpm had gone very high. When I finally got back to it and kicked it down it was popping and running a little rough. I turned it off and it was hard to start again. When it started I found that it had no power to move the vehicle and stalled.

Long story short, I decided to try to repair it myself. In the static timing test I found that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks line up, but the distributor does not seem right. Although the armature is at the right position with the stator, and the rotor is at the first cylinder contact point in the cap, the armature/stator alignment does not look like the manual illustration. The stator is not on center with the shaft, and the marks on the armature and stator are not parallel. They look more like this: "^". I brought a picture but forgot I can't upload it.

So, I am wondering if this is this normal?

The funny thing is that when I rotate the plate to the advance position the stator aligns with the shaft. (Needed three hands to get a photo of that)

Further note: The popping is through the carburetor.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

The high idle is caused by sticky linkage or mal adjusted choke, can't really help you on the dist problem.

 

Long story short, I decided to try to repair it myself. In the static timing test I found that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks line up, but the distributor does not seem right. Although the armature is at the right position with the stator, and the rotor is at the first cylinder contact point in the cap, the armature/stator alignment does not look like the manual illustration. The stator is not on center with the shaft, and the marks on the armature and stator are not parallel. They look more like this: "^". I brought a picture but forgot I can't upload it.

So, I am wondering if this is this normal?

The funny thing is that when I rotate the plate to the advance position the stator aligns with the shaft. (Needed three hands to get a photo of that)

Further note: The popping is through the carburetor.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. [/quote]
Sounds like the dist' is out of time with the engine or the dist' gear is worn out. Haven't dealt with a dist' in along while, but I cut my teeth on those old dinosaurs from the past-sometimes I would have pull out the dist' and move it 1 tooth this way or that way to get it right-could get real interesting. I wonder if the pin in the gear is getting weak, or bent, or possibly a broken tooth?? Food for thought....

 

Generally speaking, you don't care what it looks like under the distributor cap. The main thing is that the ignition fires at the correct time. If it will start, and I'm not clear on that, set the timing. I don't have it memorized, but most say to disconnect the vacuum advance, plug the tubing with a golf tee, run the engine at idle, and set the timing by rotating the distributor bowl. There should be {was at one time} a sticker on the underside of the hood, or on the radiator support indicating static timing, plug gap, and the vacuum diagram.
With a carb, and being this age, it likely has a Duraspark, with the silver/aluminum box on the fender. The 'grommet' has to be the correct color if you need to get a replacement, FWIW.
tom

 

Thanks all for your help. Now if I can just get some time to work on it
I will try to keep you posted on the results
John