3G vs high amp alternator thread
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Windsor
3G vs high amp alternator thread
So i know the 2g alternators are known for failure resulting in a fire, hence people swapping them for a 3G one.
But whats the difference between a 3G and a High-output one that JBG, NPD or LMC sells?
Besides price, is the 3g better or something? From the looks of it, i can get a 170amp, 200 amp, hell even a 250amp 7" to fit my truck?
1980-96 Ford Truck/Bronco Alternators, Starters & Parts - Engine Parts
Thoughts??
But whats the difference between a 3G and a High-output one that JBG, NPD or LMC sells?
Besides price, is the 3g better or something? From the looks of it, i can get a 170amp, 200 amp, hell even a 250amp 7" to fit my truck?
1980-96 Ford Truck/Bronco Alternators, Starters & Parts - Engine Parts
Thoughts??
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
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From: Caracas, Venezuela
There is a nice explanation from RJM on how you won't be able to obtain much over 160A with the stock belt and pulleys in the setup of these trucks, so don't pay the extra money and stick with the 3G.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
There are two different output 3G alternators from Ford.
95A; 4 holes between the webs and 135mm diameter case
130A; 2 holes between the webs and 148mm in diameter.
These come in a number of mounting styles 7" C-C pivot mount, 8.25" C-C pivot, three bolt 'side' mount, and one with offset ears that I know of.
Others in the aftermarket will change the rectifier in order to up the amperage available, but they do nothing to improve the cooling because both front and rear fans are inside the case.
There's only so much air that can get through the housing and the fans are only turning as fast as the alternator is.
Then there's the problem of driving it with a belt.
It takes power to make power.
Ford uses an eight rib belt for severe duty.
But how many people are willing or able to change all their serpentine front dress to implement it?
No, most just swap on the 6 rib pulley and then bitch when it squeals.
95A; 4 holes between the webs and 135mm diameter case
130A; 2 holes between the webs and 148mm in diameter.
These come in a number of mounting styles 7" C-C pivot mount, 8.25" C-C pivot, three bolt 'side' mount, and one with offset ears that I know of.
Others in the aftermarket will change the rectifier in order to up the amperage available, but they do nothing to improve the cooling because both front and rear fans are inside the case.
There's only so much air that can get through the housing and the fans are only turning as fast as the alternator is.
Then there's the problem of driving it with a belt.
It takes power to make power.
Ford uses an eight rib belt for severe duty.
But how many people are willing or able to change all their serpentine front dress to implement it?
No, most just swap on the 6 rib pulley and then bitch when it squeals.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Temperance,MI
I swapped to a 130amp G3 on my 96, but with all lights heat or a/c on when my electric fans kick on it would pull down to 12.4-12.6v.(via volt gauge on my cd player-.3-.4v lower than at battery). When I swapped to the HID 1pc. headlights I did a relay kit for headights, my whole truck every bulb is now LED, now it never dips below 13v. even at idle. Reduce extra useless amp draw and you will be happy with a 130amp unless your running a lot of electric load.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
You are pulling down the dash, not the battery or the alternator.
Resistive connections at the ignition switch or coming into the cab cause that stuff.
The 3G functions well and can handle all that + more.
Running the headlamp load through the dash and switch burns up switches and harnesses in these trucks. (there are dozens of threads)
I'd bet if you had checked at the starter solenoid or such you would have not seen that drop.
Just my 2c
Resistive connections at the ignition switch or coming into the cab cause that stuff.
The 3G functions well and can handle all that + more.
Running the headlamp load through the dash and switch burns up switches and harnesses in these trucks. (there are dozens of threads)
I'd bet if you had checked at the starter solenoid or such you would have not seen that drop.
Just my 2c
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2004
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What uses the 8-rib? i would assume ambulance or mini-bus package?
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pedant
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Elder User
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From: Temperance,MI
The drop does not concern me its a volt gauge in a cd player as long as its that acurate thats fine with me, the 8-18v. on the factory when the fans have their in rush on take off drops the fact. gauge to low side of N on normal. the pioneer 12.5v. ehh somethings I don't concern myself with all the connections are good clean and coated with a anti corrosive gel.
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Elder User
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From: Temperance,MI
yeah they are on a controller, kicks on at 195 off at 180, they only pull 10amps running. If I do the tuning with the 400 myself they will be ran by eec, and may see about finding 4th gen Fbody fans they move a lot more air.
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Elder User
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From: Temperance,MI
No I don't but going from a bone stock 351w to a 9.9:1 alum headed 400, have not towed with the fans yet either in summer heat. It may be fine it may not be I know last days of summer when I put them in they ran non stop maintained 195, WOT shots did not spike temp either but add a good load and that can change. Being my 400 is getting my own serpentine set up I would rather leave that exspensive water pump to just run itself not a fan too.
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