1973 250 Truck problems!
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1973 250 Truck problems!
Hey guys, So i live in flagstaff az its about 7000ft elevation and cold as *****! My truck was running great while it was warm, then all of a sudden when it started to freeze up here it decided not to start. It would crank and crank and crank but wouldnt start. Now i know im getting gas, because when i took out the spark plugs they were soaked, so i then decided to replace the coil and see if that would help, i also replaced the alternator(because it was going bad anyway). when i try to start the truck now it wont even crank The battery is fully charged too. Can anyone help?
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we had a bunch of 77, 78 79 fords. the ignition module was always going bad on them... to the point a spare was behind the seat. Could be the problem.. they would not start when the modules went bad.
Its something to check....
Its something to check....
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You say after changing the battery it won't even turn over? Does your solenoid have two poles; one marked 'S' and one marked 'I'? If so, you could have either loosened one of them or put them on the wrong poles. The one marked 'S' goes to the starter switch and engages the starter when you turn the key. Be sure and check ALL your battery cable connections and make sure they are clean and tight.
The module won't cause the engine not to turn over, only not to fire if it goes bad. Your initial problem sounds to me like a misadjusted choke. They can be a bit hard to find the 'sweet spot' where they work correctly in cold and warm weather.
The module won't cause the engine not to turn over, only not to fire if it goes bad. Your initial problem sounds to me like a misadjusted choke. They can be a bit hard to find the 'sweet spot' where they work correctly in cold and warm weather.
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[Your initial problem sounds to me like a misadjusted choke. They can be a bit hard to find the 'sweet spot' where they work correctly in cold and warm weather.] I double checked all of the connections, and turns out i installed the alternator incorrectly 
So i fixed and she'll turn over, but still wont start, i also installed an automatic to manual choke conversion kit last night, but i pulled a plug out after trying to start it for a while. The plug was soaked with gas. Why wouldnt i be getting spark?
So i fixed and she'll turn over, but still wont start, i also installed an automatic to manual choke conversion kit last night, but i pulled a plug out after trying to start it for a while. The plug was soaked with gas. Why wouldnt i be getting spark?
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Your problems could be other things too..
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Check to see if you are getting current to the coil. If not, depending on what wires you installed incorrectly on your alternator, you could have blown the module. NAPA has them at a very reasonable price. Just make sure you trouble-shoot it and don't jump to that conclusion. It could be as simple as a loose wire somewhere.
I hear people here telling about having to change them a lot, but I've only had one go out in twenty years. Maybe I've just been lucky...
I hear people here telling about having to change them a lot, but I've only had one go out in twenty years. Maybe I've just been lucky...
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Alright, if my truck has an ignition module where would it be at? Also how would i check the coil for current? I am exploring all possibilities at this point...
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MSEE
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From: Austin, TX
Hold the phone people, the OP is saying the truck won't even crank. The ignition module, coil, etc have nothing to do with that.
Let's clarify. Does the truck even turn over when you turn the key, or is the problem that it turns over, but does not fire up and run?
Let's clarify. Does the truck even turn over when you turn the key, or is the problem that it turns over, but does not fire up and run?
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I apologize. The truck will now crank but will not fire up and run. I've checked for spark and there isn't. I dont think it is the ignition module, this was a daily driver for me until single digit weather. The plugs and wires are fairly new maybe 2 years old, new alternator, new coil, and a new battery.
MSEE
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From: Austin, TX
Thanks for the clarification. With the coil still hooked up, connect a test light from the negative terminal of the coil to clean, unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Crank the engine over with the key, and the light should BLINK. Report your results.
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Okay so I connected my test light to the negative terminal of the coil and the other end to an unpainted part of the engine and cranked it. The light was solid, it did not blink at all. Does this mean that my coil is bad?
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EDIT: Just noticed this is a '73. Unless it's been up-graded, it doesn't have a module, it has points. That changes things a bit. Sorry about the confusion.
Take the distributor cap off and make sure the shaft is turning when you crank the engine over. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like either your shaft isn't turning or the points aren't opening. When the points open is when your test light should go off, then come back on when they close. I'd nearly put money that your points aren't opening now.
Take the distributor cap off and make sure the shaft is turning when you crank the engine over. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds like either your shaft isn't turning or the points aren't opening. When the points open is when your test light should go off, then come back on when they close. I'd nearly put money that your points aren't opening now.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Austin, TX
Since this is a '73, does it still have points? If so, your points are not opening and closing, or are not grounded. Check the points and make sure they are properly secured and gapped. Also make sure the ground wire between the base plate and breaker plate is intact.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
^ v B8Q-12171-A .. Point Set (Motorcraft DP-12) ~ 1957/73 V8's, 1974/75 V8's without DuraSpark.
OP's truck is a 1973, DuraSpark Electronic Ignition was introduced in 1974, but not all vehicles came with it until 1976.
OP's truck is a 1973, DuraSpark Electronic Ignition was introduced in 1974, but not all vehicles came with it until 1976.
