No heat, cooling issues
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Houghton, MI
No heat, cooling issues
My truck (97 CCSB, auto, stock) has been having some really strange cooling problems. It's been taking 10 miles for the needle to move. Even when the needle moves I have no heat. Ice cold air is being blow (ambient temp varies from 5-25F). I assumed it was sticking thermostat, changed that and haven't seen much of a difference.
When I continue to drive the needle will finally move up to the R and even get to the L. I'll have some heat at that point. Then the needle will drop back to the N and I lose heat.
We've changed the thermostat and cap on the res. Even clamped off the bypass as this is a texas truck and doesn't have a restrictor in the bypass. Anyone have any thoughts on where to go from here? I'm thinking of pulling the turbo and checking the orings?
When I continue to drive the needle will finally move up to the R and even get to the L. I'll have some heat at that point. Then the needle will drop back to the N and I lose heat.
We've changed the thermostat and cap on the res. Even clamped off the bypass as this is a texas truck and doesn't have a restrictor in the bypass. Anyone have any thoughts on where to go from here? I'm thinking of pulling the turbo and checking the orings?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 103
From: Ashland City, TN
if the heater core is clean, then you have a restriction someplace else, or your pump is not flowing enough coolant to properly cool.
The needle even on the idiot gauge where it doesn't read right should never get to the L unless its overheating.
A quick way to check the water pump is to pull the serpentine belt and grab ahold of the fan and see how much in and out play and lateral play the water pump has.
If the bearings in the pump wear to much, the pump can contact the front cover and damage the pump and the front cover.
It will still run without leaking though.
You dont wanna damage the front cover.
The needle even on the idiot gauge where it doesn't read right should never get to the L unless its overheating.
A quick way to check the water pump is to pull the serpentine belt and grab ahold of the fan and see how much in and out play and lateral play the water pump has.
If the bearings in the pump wear to much, the pump can contact the front cover and damage the pump and the front cover.
It will still run without leaking though.
You dont wanna damage the front cover.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Houghton, MI
Thanks for the reply but I'm still stuck on what is happening...
I've changed the theromstat and waterpump, still have the same issue. Pressure tested the system, no leaks. Flushed the heater core, didn't see any restriction there. I also ran water through the top radiator opening and watched it come out the bottom...not really a flow test but the best I could do. I didn't see any restriction there. Only other clues are the radiator was cold to the touch after running the truck and having the temp needle at the R....still really confused.
I looked for collapsed hoses and didn't see any...is my make shift flow test good enough for the radiator? Or is that the next suspect item as it's cold to the touch after driving the truck?
I've changed the theromstat and waterpump, still have the same issue. Pressure tested the system, no leaks. Flushed the heater core, didn't see any restriction there. I also ran water through the top radiator opening and watched it come out the bottom...not really a flow test but the best I could do. I didn't see any restriction there. Only other clues are the radiator was cold to the touch after running the truck and having the temp needle at the R....still really confused.
I looked for collapsed hoses and didn't see any...is my make shift flow test good enough for the radiator? Or is that the next suspect item as it's cold to the touch after driving the truck?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
That's a tough one you got. The only thing else I can think of is pull the plugs on the sides of the motor and see what comes out. I would say if you got a good amount of coolant out on both sides then maybe pull the radiator and have it flushed and pressure tested.
lost
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 290
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From: Worland, WY
Few things to check, are you sure you have the right T-stat, should be a long stem. Are you sure it was put in the right way?
With your temps going up and down like they are, I would say you AT LEAST have a T-stat issue. Just because its new, doesn't mean its working right. It could be sticking partially open when cold and not opening enough when warm.
Also check the heater hoses and make sure they are connected right. You could even try swapping connection locations and try it if your not sure.
With your temps going up and down like they are, I would say you AT LEAST have a T-stat issue. Just because its new, doesn't mean its working right. It could be sticking partially open when cold and not opening enough when warm.
Also check the heater hoses and make sure they are connected right. You could even try swapping connection locations and try it if your not sure.
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Senior User
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From: Houghton, MI
The t-stat was compared before being replaced...twice. Same t-stat as before. We thought the same thing...got a bad replacement t-stat expect it was acting the same way after the second replacement.
Shouldn't the radiator be warm to the touch after driving? (ambient temp is ~10F) Again, system was already pressure tested with no leaks found. Pressure held so this must be a restriction issue...
Any other thoughts on if my make shift flow test was sufficient for the radiator?
Shouldn't the radiator be warm to the touch after driving? (ambient temp is ~10F) Again, system was already pressure tested with no leaks found. Pressure held so this must be a restriction issue...
Any other thoughts on if my make shift flow test was sufficient for the radiator?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Cross Lanes, WV
One question... Where did you purchase the thermostats?? Were they the ones from auto parts store? or did you get a good one from dealer? In my experience, the ones from the auto parts store do not work properly in these diesel motors. I went thru 3 before buying the one from the dealer. No More Problems..
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,417
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From: Braham MN
Touch the top radiator hose, you shouldn't be able to hold on very long with the needle anywhere on the "normal" range.
You mentioned clamping off the bypass....There isn't a bypass on the PSD motor so I am confused on what you clamped off.
FWIW there are 2 different style of t-stats. a long stem and a short stem. I'll be danged if I can remember what one goes in what water pump but it is possible you got the wrong one.
Diesel Rod
You mentioned clamping off the bypass....There isn't a bypass on the PSD motor so I am confused on what you clamped off.
FWIW there are 2 different style of t-stats. a long stem and a short stem. I'll be danged if I can remember what one goes in what water pump but it is possible you got the wrong one.
Diesel Rod
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
Touch the top radiator hose, you shouldn't be able to hold on very long with the needle anywhere on the "normal" range.
You mentioned clamping off the bypass....There isn't a bypass on the PSD motor so I am confused on what you clamped off.
FWIW there are 2 different style of t-stats. a long stem and a short stem. I'll be danged if I can remember what one goes in what water pump but it is possible you got the wrong one.
Diesel Rod
You mentioned clamping off the bypass....There isn't a bypass on the PSD motor so I am confused on what you clamped off.
FWIW there are 2 different style of t-stats. a long stem and a short stem. I'll be danged if I can remember what one goes in what water pump but it is possible you got the wrong one.
Diesel Rod
Here is a picture and measurement on the long stem thermostat ...
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Houghton, MI
The truck was driven almost 1600 miles before it started having this issue. I compared t-stats before swapping them. It's surprising that 91 dually went through three before he got a working one.
I've gutted the t-stat to see if I'm getting a restriction from somewhere else. I'll run it for a day or two and see what happens and keep you all informed.
I've gutted the t-stat to see if I'm getting a restriction from somewhere else. I'll run it for a day or two and see what happens and keep you all informed.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Houghton, MI
Got it. Replaced the thermostat twice and water pump once. Heat core flushed and didn't appear to be restricted....still having issues.
I'll run it the way it is. If it still runs hot then I have a restriction somewhere else. If not, it's just multiple bad t-stats.
I'll run it the way it is. If it still runs hot then I have a restriction somewhere else. If not, it's just multiple bad t-stats.