Help with starter solenoid
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Help with starter solenoid
Hey guys, Great forum! I recently bought a 1964 F100 that was supposedly rebuilt, but is hasn't ran in 5 years.. Any way it didn't have a starter relay on it when I got it. I have seen a few diagrams on here about wiring the relay for the starter, and one for the alt/gen. The problem I have is I have more wires than what those diagrams show, and Im not sure I have them hooked up right. Any help on this would be appreciated. Also the engine is close to starting, but not quite. It seems that when the engine almost starts, the starter will kick out, and almost sound like a Dodge starter. I have replaced the points and condenser. When I set the points to .016 and tighten the screw, it almost feels like the little screw is stripped (not holding tight). Please help me get her going!!! thanks
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Yes, there is spark. There is gas from the carb, but it doesn't smell like good gas. I put 5 gallons of gas into the tank before I tried to start it. I guess I need to drain the tank?
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Wichita, KS
If the points are slipping this would be a problem! Check your gap again to see if they are still gapped correctly. Also, if the gas doesn't smell right- that could be the cause.
You can try pouring gas down the carb while starting to see if it runs off that.
You can try pouring gas down the carb while starting to see if it runs off that.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2012
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The reason the starter kicks out is the bendix spring is weak, when the engine fires it kicks the starter out.
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Well, I drained the gas out the tank. Hooked up my boat gas can to the carb, pumped it up, and tried to start. It sounded like it wanted to start a couple of times, but it didn't 
. There was a couple of backfires (actual fire) up through the carb. I guess its timing? I did the #1 cylinder on tdc, straw in spark plug hole, and timing marks on damper verifying tdc. Rotor pointing to the general area of #1 plug on cap.... It got to dark to check gap on points.... I guess I will check points tomorrow... thanks for all the replies so far...please help me get it going!!
. There was a couple of backfires (actual fire) up through the carb. I guess its timing? I did the #1 cylinder on tdc, straw in spark plug hole, and timing marks on damper verifying tdc. Rotor pointing to the general area of #1 plug on cap.... It got to dark to check gap on points.... I guess I will check points tomorrow... thanks for all the replies so far...please help me get it going!!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Kemmerer, Wyoming
It sounds to me like your points are the issue. Make sure the contacts have a clean, square surface and make sure you can't move them by hand after they are tightened down. Also remember that changing your point gap will affect the timing. Getting points set properly is a practiced art, I always check with a dwell meter after the engine is running.
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Hey guys, Well I pulled the valve cover gaskets off after work today, to see if there were any stuck valves... It was remarkably clean in there. I turned it over by hand, and the valve springs all seam to go up and down nicely. Unfortunately, I did find 1 bent push rod. 
NOW WHAT? PLEASE HELP!! Can it be replaced without removing the head? What else should I check? Any help would be appreciated... thanks
NOW WHAT? PLEASE HELP!! Can it be replaced without removing the head? What else should I check? Any help would be appreciated... thanks
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Joined: Jan 2012
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You didn't say what engine you had but generally you can loosen the bolts that hold the rocker arm shaft enough to push the rocker arm aside and lift out the bent push rod. Then slip the new one in and carefully tighten and torque the shaft back in place. Watch to see that you don't have any rods slide off the adjusting ball as you tighten everything down. Then do a check on the valve lash and adjust as necessary.
At this time you should also check the shaft for any obvious excessive wear. By that I mean look for serious grooving by the rocker arm into the shaft. Excessive wear could have caused a loose rocker arm which allowed the push rod to slip out and get hammered.
Have you gotten a shop manual yet? If not do so....
At this time you should also check the shaft for any obvious excessive wear. By that I mean look for serious grooving by the rocker arm into the shaft. Excessive wear could have caused a loose rocker arm which allowed the push rod to slip out and get hammered.
Have you gotten a shop manual yet? If not do so....
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From: Garden City KANSAS
The engine is a 292. I tried to get a manual at the local parts house, but they didn't have one, so I ordered one. Also, how do I know if the other rods, and valves are ok? I watched all the other springs go up and down, as I cranked the motor over by hand, and they seem to go up and down fine. Would one bad pushrod make the engine not run? I have never done any internal work like this, and I just want to make sure every thing else is ok. Maybe I need to post this in the Y block forum? thanks
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 79
Likes: 1
Hey guys, Great forum! I recently bought a 1964 F100 that was supposedly rebuilt, but is hasn't ran in 5 years.. Any way it didn't have a starter relay on it when I got it. I have seen a few diagrams on here about wiring the relay for the starter, and one for the alt/gen. The problem I have is I have more wires than what those diagrams show, and Im not sure I have them hooked up right. Any help on this would be appreciated. Also the engine is close to starting, but not quite. It seems that when the engine almost starts, the starter will kick out, and almost sound like a Dodge starter. I have replaced the points and condenser. When I set the points to .016 and tighten the screw, it almost feels like the little screw is stripped (not holding tight). Please help me get her going!!! thanks
1. First big posts goes to the battery post. This one also should have all the wires that go to the electrical items on the truck (Alt/Gen, main power, ect).
2. Post "S" is the start post. That is the wire that activates the relay and hence the starter.
3. Post "I" should be the resistor bypass wire going to the coil. When the battery is loaded down, there may only be 9 volts. This bypasses the resister to help starting.
4. Big post 2 goes to the starter
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 79
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The engine is a 292. I tried to get a manual at the local parts house, but they didn't have one, so I ordered one. Also, how do I know if the other rods, and valves are ok? I watched all the other springs go up and down, as I cranked the motor over by hand, and they seem to go up and down fine. Would one bad pushrod make the engine not run? I have never done any internal work like this, and I just want to make sure every thing else is ok. Maybe I need to post this in the Y block forum? thanks
Getting a compression gauge that screws into the spark plug hole would help. At least you could identify problem cylinders. 1 bent push-rod shouldn't keep it from cranking but it will have a skip in it when it does crank.
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From: Garden City KANSAS
Just for reference, The starter relay should have 2 big posts and 2 small posts labeled "S" and "I". Looking at it and going from L to R;
1. First big posts goes to the battery post. This one also should have all the wires that go to the electrical items on the truck (Alt/Gen, main power, ect).
2. Post "S" is the start post. That is the wire that activates the relay and hence the starter.
3. Post "I" should be the resistor bypass wire going to the coil. When the battery is loaded down, there may only be 9 volts. This bypasses the resister to help starting.
4. Big post 2 goes to the starter
1. First big posts goes to the battery post. This one also should have all the wires that go to the electrical items on the truck (Alt/Gen, main power, ect).
2. Post "S" is the start post. That is the wire that activates the relay and hence the starter.
3. Post "I" should be the resistor bypass wire going to the coil. When the battery is loaded down, there may only be 9 volts. This bypasses the resister to help starting.
4. Big post 2 goes to the starter