Well, it's finally done. Over the weekend, I did the following:

- New W code Ford front springs
- New DynaTrac balljoints
- New F250 rear sway bar
- Energy Suspension bushings for front and rear sway bars
- Disassembled, cleaned, and re-packed the locking hubs
- New Timken U-joints
- New seals as applicable (axles, hubs, etc.)
- New shorty antenna to avoid hitting the garage door

I'll be doing modified B's in the rear when I have the time. I'm also planning for a Bullet Proof Steering set-up to replace the tie rods, track bar, etc.

Thanks to Robert_l_Ross for the great write-up, and to all the others who chipped in advice.

I did everything by myself and it was A LOT of work. It would have been great to have another person to help, to say the least. I have very little wrenching experience, but was able to do it.

I did have a good local shop press the BJs and U-joints. I had borrowed a c-clamp type BJ press kit from the local Pep Boys. After the first BJ started going a little ****-eyed, I decided that the $700 DynaTracs weren't worth the risk of continuing. They charged me about a $80 bucks for the presswork, and even pressed on the large axle-to-steering knuckle seals for me.

I absolutely recommend having at least two good jacks, and having a third just in case. I wasted a lot of time with jacking, stands, and blocks after my 3-ton bit the dust 15 minutes into the job. I spent way too much time working around having only one jack. I finally resorted to employing the Ford-supplied screwjack that came with the truck, and it saved the day.

The next biggest time killer was getting the old balljoints to break their mechanical weld to the steering knuckles. I have a life-long Southern California truck without a speck of rust on it, and I spent what felt like hours pounding the heck out of the old BJs trying to get them to break free.

Also, like Robert, getting the driver's side spring to line up properly was a pain. The passenger side was much easier. I used a couple of ratchet straps, several different jack elevations back and forth, and a good kick or two to get everything aligned.

I haven't driven the truck a whole lot since the work, other than getting a front-end alignment today (probably not necessary, but cheap insurance) and a few errands around town.

However, it already feels much better. The whole thing feels much firmer, but in no way harsh or too "truck-like". If I hadn't already bought the new B's for the rear, I would strongly consider not changing them, at least for now, until I get more road-time and see how it feels. I'm sure the beefier rear sway bar helps, as well.

Changing out the rear sway bar probably took 20-25 mins max. Very simple and effective, and not very expensive. I think the rear sway was about $110 from my local dealer and was a direct bolt on. It even came with new factory bushings.

The ride height is just about perfect. I started with some postive rake, as I have about 4 inch blocks in the rear on stock springs. The new W codes put it perfectly level now. I'll have to play with the rear blocks when I install the B codes.

I decided to go with the W's instead of the V's because I plan to do a heavier bumper and winch at some point. I'm happy I did, and she still gets in and out of the garage with no issues.

Here are some mesurements and photos for reference. Sorry for the pics. They're not good quality, but you'll get the idea. I'm only listing the fronts for now, since I did not swap the rears, yet.

Measurements were taken from the highest point of the fender lip to hub center.

Pre-Swap:

LF = 22 1/2 inches
Rf = 23 inches

Post-Swap:

LF = 24 3/4 inches - 2 1/4 inch gain
RF = 25 1/4 inches - 2 1/4 inch gain