EGR question
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Parkesburg PA
EGR question
Ok, First EGR or No EGR? Second, if I go EGR do I use the EFE Valve or not?
351w HO. I want to replace the intake with a Performer intake and I'm not sure which one to get. The EGR + EFE is a stock replacement but is that the best for performance/economy?
What if I run headers and don't have the exhaust heat valve? Will the EFE still work?
The EFE valve is the one in the intake next to the carb.
351w HO. I want to replace the intake with a Performer intake and I'm not sure which one to get. The EGR + EFE is a stock replacement but is that the best for performance/economy?
What if I run headers and don't have the exhaust heat valve? Will the EFE still work?
The EFE valve is the one in the intake next to the carb.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I don't remember what the blue thingy does... some of those thingies were anti-dieseling solenoids, some kicked up the idle when the air conditioning was on, some were to reduce backfiring on deceleration... there were a lot of those thingies over the years and I certainly don't remember them at this point. 
Or even recognize the term EFE valve.
If you can find an Engineering ID number on it I can try and look it up in the parts book, that'd tell us what name Ford gave the thing.
Or even recognize the term EFE valve.
If you can find an Engineering ID number on it I can try and look it up in the parts book, that'd tell us what name Ford gave the thing.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Parkesburg PA
It's the intake manifold heat control valve... a.k.a. the early fuel evaporation valve...
It's part 9G464... I looked it up.
It's designed to get the intake up to temp faster but I think it also works with the exhaust mounted valve. So without the exhaust mounted valve do I really need the intake valve?
Oh... And the Performer intake is more expensive without the valve... Go figure...
Wallet says forget about EGR... That's the cheapest manifold...
It's part 9G464... I looked it up.
It's designed to get the intake up to temp faster but I think it also works with the exhaust mounted valve. So without the exhaust mounted valve do I really need the intake valve?
Oh... And the Performer intake is more expensive without the valve... Go figure...
Wallet says forget about EGR... That's the cheapest manifold...
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Parkesburg PA
But will it work without the valve in the exhaust?
And by that I mean will it be effective. The valve in the exhaust redirects the exhaust flow through the heads and plenum to the other exhaust manifold.
And by that I mean will it be effective. The valve in the exhaust redirects the exhaust flow through the heads and plenum to the other exhaust manifold.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
It looks vacuum controlled to me...
I don't really think it needs extra backpressure to be effective.
I know that my truck is different, but mine never came with an exhaust valve and the crossover seems to function fine.
I don't really think it needs extra backpressure to be effective.
I know that my truck is different, but mine never came with an exhaust valve and the crossover seems to function fine.
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From: Virginia
My personal opinion, if you do not need it to pass inspections, I would not use it. If you are going to use the original carb, then you probably need the EGR so it will not ping. But if you are going to use a aftermarket carb, get the intake without the EGR and without the exhaust valve. Set it up like a late 60's 351w.
1. Plain intake, leave the center exhaust ports open.
2. Aftermarket carb
3. Original aircleaner with the vacuum lines to it hooked up, and the warm air tube hooked up. This part is important, and covers up some of the problems you might have by not using the exhaust valve in your picture.
The whole idea is to keep the carb and intake warm, so it will not ice up in cool weather. It tends to ice up and run rough because of the venturi affect of the carb, the evaporation of the fuel, along with all that damp cool air coming into the aircleaner. You have to have a mechanism of some sort to warm this area up or it will refuse to run correctly till the engine is fully warmed up.
1. Plain intake, leave the center exhaust ports open.
2. Aftermarket carb
3. Original aircleaner with the vacuum lines to it hooked up, and the warm air tube hooked up. This part is important, and covers up some of the problems you might have by not using the exhaust valve in your picture.
The whole idea is to keep the carb and intake warm, so it will not ice up in cool weather. It tends to ice up and run rough because of the venturi affect of the carb, the evaporation of the fuel, along with all that damp cool air coming into the aircleaner. You have to have a mechanism of some sort to warm this area up or it will refuse to run correctly till the engine is fully warmed up.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Parkesburg PA
I'm an A&P so I'm familiar with carb icing. I don't have the heat tube hooked up but plan to. I'm probably going to try and use an 85 mustang dual snorkel air cleaner.
I called Edelbrock and they said without the heat valve in the exhaust the valve in the intake is pretty useless and that if I wanted EGR the 3781 intake with a 4bbl EGR adapter would be best. It's the same as the 3783 but without the valve opening machined. The 3783 is the direct HO replacement.
I don't have to worry about emissions testing and even if I did they're not going to scrutinize it that much. Right now it would fail but once I restore PCV, EGR and Evap the shops I know would pass it. Especially since I'm hooking stuff back up...
I called Edelbrock and they said without the heat valve in the exhaust the valve in the intake is pretty useless and that if I wanted EGR the 3781 intake with a 4bbl EGR adapter would be best. It's the same as the 3783 but without the valve opening machined. The 3783 is the direct HO replacement.
I don't have to worry about emissions testing and even if I did they're not going to scrutinize it that much. Right now it would fail but once I restore PCV, EGR and Evap the shops I know would pass it. Especially since I'm hooking stuff back up...
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