I'm under the truck right now and a quick search of this forum and Ziggy's torque specs don't seem to show how much I need to torque the IPR on reinstallation.

If anybody can let me know how much to torque the IPR (the 1 1/8" nut - not the 3/4" nut), I would appreciate it.

David

 

Just snug...I've never torqued it.

And I don't have it in any specs I have together, but I can look in the service manual and see if it's listed. May take a bit though.

 

It has O-rings if I am not mistaken. I would take the ratchet, grab it by the head of the ratchet and not the end of the handle and snug it up pretty good. You go to the end of the handle and you can over torque it very easy.

 

Thank you for the quick reply.

Got the IPR in but the socket stuck on the IPR. Had to back the socket with the stuck IPR out with an adjustable wrench - what a pain. Got it out after about 45 minutes, pushed the IPR out of the socket (fortunately undamaged), and reinstalled it. I just snugged it in. I'm hoping for no leaks (which I'll watch over the next few weeks).

Didn't solve the start problem on the first start but I'll let it sit for a few days and try it again.

As always, thank you for your help.

 

Unplug the ICP and see if it cranks over.

I assume you already did, but did you top off the HPOP with oil.

 

Thanks Ted.

HPOP reservoir got new oil to within about one inch of the top.

I'm travelling Monday & Tuesday so the truck will sit until Wednesday. My problem (hard to start, stalls, & runs rough for the first few minutes when I finally get it to start) only happens when the truck sits for a few days.

I'll try pulling the ICP (I assume I just unplug it) when I first start it on Wednesday.

The GPR measures 12.3V on the hot side and 11.3 +/- on the back side so I assume the GPR is OK (It's a Washington truck). I'm in California so except for the last few days, we rarely get below 50F. The batteries were replaced two weeks ago. The truck runs fine once it's warmed up. Even though the truck has 230K on the original injectors, I would hate to spend $1,500 on injectors if I don't have to.

 

Have someone with an AE come by if they are available and run a buzz test. That should rule out an injector issue, or highlight one.

 

the ipr likes a 29mm
nice fit and wont get in a bind like 1-1/8...

if it were me... i would change cps before icp.

any oil in your fuel bowl?
smoke when it does get started?
any smoke while try ing to start?

 

I thought they were interchangable - that's 45 minutes of my life I'll never get back...

OK - I've got a new spare in my glove box. I may try that. However, wouldn't the truck run crappy all the time (not just at startup) if the CPS was bad?

I'll look on Wednesday and report back.

Not really ... unless I stomp on the pedal to get it started.

No. When it's not starting, it's like it's not getting fuel. To get it started, I generally have to coax the truck/keep it alive with a slight touch of the pedal.

 

i have seen 3 so far have temperature related failures... so far the cps's i saw do this started acting up the warmer they got... but maybe the opposite can be true as well...
i just suggest cps because its so inexpensive... and if it fixes the issue... cool... if not... your only out 30$ or so... and now have another spare...

oil in fuel would indicate bad injector orings.

 

The good book says 53 in/lbs for the IPR.

 

It might be "the good book" but 53 in/lbs only equals 4.4 ft/lbs.

Dieselsite recommends 35 ft/lbs when installing IPR and that is what I always used without a problem.

 

The torque values for the Ford IPR test bench are also 53 in/lbs. I am going to stick with that and trust the o-rings to seal it rather than a higher torque.

 

The "good book" is referring the torque on the tin nut. I have it on dvd.
"Torque the IPR to 35 ft/lbs and the solenoid retaining nut to 53 in/lbs." This quote is taken from Ford Senior Master Technician (dieselmann) Charles Ledger's website.

 

Double post...