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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 69Bronc
I tore into the truck some today. I took off the rear calipers and rotors. It wasn't the parking brake causing the noise. I did find that the driver's side axle seal is leaking. Also, the parking brake shoes look pretty worn.

Anyway, after I removed all of that, I spun the driveshaft. It is still hard to tell, but it really sounds like a noise is coming from the transfer case. I will try the fluid change and see if that fixes it. But first, it is time for axle seals and new parking brake shoes. The rear calipers seemed to move fine once I got them off. I am also going to flush the brake system.
At least you're narrowing it down, and finding some other things that needed servicing. Hope the fluid change in the transfer helps.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by sammie0126
That came out of my TC with 80k on it never changed, after change "sound" issue I had resolved. Change the fluid. Mercon IV or V either is fine, need about 2 quarts.
Just out of curiosity, did your "sound" problem sound similar to what I am describing in this post?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 12:30 PM
  #48  
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Well, I was wrong about noise I was hearing while spinning everything by hand coming from the transfer case. I dropped the rear driveshaft again and spun the tcase. There was a little noise, but not the louder "grind" noise that I was hearing. So, I spun the rear axles without the driveshaft attached - sure enough, the noise is coming from the rear end. I can't tell exactly where from in the rear. I guess I will pull the axles and spin the pinion by hand to see if it is still making the noise to rule out diff carrier bearings and rear wheel bearings. That will have to wait, though - I am in no mood to work on it now. I am fairly pissed off right now and mad that I ever bought this truck. Been pretty much a disaster since I bought it.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 02:06 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 69Bronc
Just out of curiosity, did your "sound" problem sound similar to what I am describing in this post?
Yes it did, same sound but not as bad as you described. Sounds like a moot point anyway because it appears you have narrowed it down to the rear end gears.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 03:32 PM
  #50  
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Hang in there Devin, I was right there with ya at one point after buying mine. Two years lemme tell you, it was worth every second.

Congrats on getting it tracked down this far, you're just about there.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 06:58 AM
  #51  
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I hate auto shops. There aren't any dedicated "rear end" shops near me (not really any even in the state of New Mexico from what I can see). So, a couple of my gear head friends tell me that one guy down at the local auto repair shop (which is also a NAPA store) is a real gear guru and has set up many, many rear ends.

So, I go talk to the guy, and he seems pretty knowledgeable/agreeable/friendly. He indicates that he has set up "hundreds" of rear ends over the years, including several 10.5s. I ask him for an estimate on a rear end job. So, he gets back to me with an estimate with NAPA parts (I don't really want to use NAPA stuff, but I figured for the estimate - whatever). Anyway, I get the estimate and take it home and go through it part by part comparing part prices on the estimate to part prices on NAPA's website. The part prices on the estimate are inflated to the tune of 48%!!!!

If I can't trust this guy to give an honest assessment of the part prices, how can I trust him to do the job right? I did tell him that if I bring the truck in, I want to see everything as he is progressing - to make sure the parts are indeed bad.

This sucks. I am thinking of just doing this myself. But, I have only set up two axles before - a Ford 9" and a Dana 44. I have been told that the Sterling 10.5" is fairly similar to the Dana 44, but I can't find a write-up for a Sterling 10.5". That, and the Dana 44 that I set up was for a front axle - so I didn't care if I "nailed" it as much (although the gear pattern on that one turned out awesome).

Really, I don't want to do this one myself. I might just ask the guy if he will do the labor if I supply the parts (that way I can just get timken stuff). But, I am not sure I trust him now. Blech.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 08:15 PM
  #52  
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Spent a little more time with the truck today. I pulled the rear axles, and the hub bearings are very quiet. When I spin the pinion, it is fairly noisy.

However, I also spun the driveshaft again while attached to the transfer case (but not the rear end). There is noise coming from the transfer case as well. It isn't as loud as the rear end when I spin it, but there is noise.

So, I changed the fluid in the transfer case - no change. The noise still sounds like it is coming from somewhere either beneath me or towards the front. I have replaced the front wheel bearings, and the front diff spins smooth and quiet when I turn it by hand.

I guess I am going to take it in to this mechanic and see if he can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. I am sick of just throwing money at this thing already. I am just about on the verge of selling it already.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 01:30 PM
  #53  
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Just wanted to update for those that may be searching the forums for similar noises. The mechanic pinpointed the noise to the rear end. I asked if it was ok if I provided the parts - he said yes. So, I got Timken bearings (carrier and pinion bearings) for the rear end, and also got new rear wheel hubs seals.

Anyway, I went ahead and just had the mechanic do the work. He took it apart and it turned out to be a bad carrier bearing on the diff. The larger pinion bearing was also showing some signs of wear. But that carrier bearing was definitely bad - rollers were fairly chewed up and pitting on the race. Gear faces looked good and the pinion shaft was fine.

Rolling noise is gone. So - if you have a rolling noise that sounds like it might be coming from the front - it may just be coming from the rear. Funny how that sound travels through the drivetrain.

Thanks for all of the ideas and responses, everyone.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 03:44 PM
  #54  
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thanks for the update, I have been wondering if you had tracked it down.

How much did the shop charge for the RR?
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 03:55 PM
  #55  
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Labor was $600. Found a couple of places down in Albuquerque that said they would do it for cheaper, but the hassle and cost of getting the truck down and back made me decide to stay here. I could have tackled it myself, but I have had a lot of work come up with all of my current vehicles, and to be honest, I am a bit burnt out on wrenching.

I am glad it is done. Now hopefully the truck will be good to me for a while so I can start trusting it. It was funny, when I went to pick the truck up, I went back and inspected the bearings, paid my bill, then walked out to the truck. I got in, and said aloud: "Ok, if this sound isn't gone, truck - I am selling you". Sound is gone.
 
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Old May 3, 2013 | 12:18 PM
  #56  
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From: Golden, CO
Originally Posted by 69Bronc
Labor was $600. Found a couple of places down in Albuquerque that said they would do it for cheaper, but the hassle and cost of getting the truck down and back made me decide to stay here. I could have tackled it myself, but I have had a lot of work come up with all of my current vehicles, and to be honest, I am a bit burnt out on wrenching.

I am glad it is done. Now hopefully the truck will be good to me for a while so I can start trusting it. It was funny, when I went to pick the truck up, I went back and inspected the bearings, paid my bill, then walked out to the truck. I got in, and said aloud: "Ok, if this sound isn't gone, truck - I am selling you". Sound is gone.
Congrats on the complete fix! And thanks for posting the final update. I've got a 'rolling' noise as well that I am starting to investigate. This thread hopefully will let me pinpoint it fast.
 
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