Well I finally got my Hooker 6907 long tubes in place! They have 1.5" primaries and 2.5" collectors.

Good news they fit great! No fitment issues at all. It took me about 6 hours with help (and a few brakes to eat as it was Memorial Day) to get them in and mounted. The last passanger side bolt took easily an hour to install itself. I used copper collector gaskets and Mr Gasket Ultraseal head to header gaskets.

Bad news, making the y-pipe was very tough. The collectors come right by the trans crossmemeber. I had it lift and go up and over, no big deal. Hooked up to my High flow cat also. The Y-pipe is 2.5" piping to a 3" collector.

Also, I have a Magnaflow 12588 installed. I had it dumped as I need to have a stud girdle installed prior to having tailpipes made...so there is some resonation by being dumped. Should easily go away when tail pipes are made.

Power gains are noticable. Torque is up and will easily spin the 275's out back for a few seconds with two full gas tanks. But I also finally got my K&N FIPK up with a home ported 70mm MAF. So now I have a killer WOT sound...but not as loud as open headers! Some emissions piping is now gone too...

Thanks for reading and ask away if you have questions!

 

hey, did you get the ceramic coated ones or just the jet black? I am wanting to put long tubes on my truck at the same time as the engine REALLY bad. I suppose they don't come with any emition provisions? What about a 02 bung? More specifically, what did you do with your thermactor/AIR injection system? The only way I have been able to figure a way around it is to just remove the whole thing. I have thermactor passages on both exhaust manifolds and the EGR on the passenger side like usual. From what I gather, all the thermactor does is allow fresh air to enter the exhaust to help completely burn the fumes in the cat. I don't have any cats anyway. lol But I guess I wouldn't care if the EGR stayed in place, I hear that helps prevent buildup of deposits in the engine. I have yet to come accross a good set of long tubes designed for EFI vehicles. What is the sound like compared to before the long tubes? As I remember you had shorties, which would be one step up from manifolds.

I would really like to buy a set of dynomax ceramic coated. For only 230 bucks, but I still need to call summit to see if they carry them in my app. Probably not

 

Outstanding!!! Good to hear Hit Man!!! So you didn't have to grind on the frame? I wonder why mine ended up being so snug then... really gets the noggin crankin!!! LOL
Good Job man!!!

Get some pics going!! I'd love to see what you've been up to!!

 

I gotta waste about 20 shots on my camera, get them developed, and I will scan them and post up.

They dropped in sooo much easier than I would have thought with the horror stories we heard from headers. But when I cut off that carb heat riser thing on the passanger side I just bent part of it off and got about a 1/4" hole in my header! Had a really nasty sound, so it was a trip welding that hole shut.

I got just the painted black ones and threw on my own 1200* paint, needless to say a trip to Jet Hot would have been better. Jet Hot is about $200 or so for a set of headers. Jet Hot is far better than HTS coatings. Call Jet Hot they will give you a free estimate and mail you a BOX full of propaganda (sp?)

Nope no AIR or O2 bung. I bought an O2 bung for $8, welded in the drivers header collector.

Most of my Thermactor stuff is already gone. The check valve on my cylinder heads is gone. That rusted and I unbolted it and filled the holes with the Ford parts. The smog pump to the air tube to the cat is gone also with the long tubes. I pulled the big canister filter to the smog pump off also. Engine bay is much cleaner now. BTW, I passed emissions in Jan with flying colors here in Texas with that stuff gone.

That 80's emission stuff is so crappy, I am suprised it even worked to begin with. Heck how my truck is now it get better gas milage, more environmentally sound, and can move out of its own way!

I do have still and will keep my EGR, it would case way too many problems if it were gone. I also still have the TAB/TAD solenoids by the coil. I would like to get rid of those seeing how most of my smog stuff has been rendered useless now. Any idea how to get rid of that stuff?

Sound isn't too much louder with long tubes vs the shorties. I have a high flow intake (K&N FIPK and a ported MAF) so I have a killer WOT sound from that and with a full exhaust it is really loud at WOT, but putting about is fairly loud...not unbareable at all. Sounds really nice and the torque is much more noticable now too. I did get to drive across town with open headers, that was a trip!

I am going to put most of my misc parts in the classified bin for sale too (2.5"-3" y-pipe, mandrel bends, shorty headers, Flowmaster, shorty y-pipe, etc) just a lot of random parts.

All that's left for bolt ons are: electric fans (I have them, just not going on this time around), figure out my BBK FP regulator, play with timing, and swap the alternator pulley for a smaller one.

Then I can get that Eaton that is in the closet installed with a set of gears. Oh, and pay someone to install some Earls stainless brake lines.

Anyway, I hope that helps and I will answer any more questions you may have!

 

Lex where did you get the hurst shifter

 

I got the shifter from SummitRacing, and I must reiterate that I really do love it!!! It was about $200, and IMHO every penny well spent.

 

Have you tried to just disconnect the TAB and TAD sensors? Since they arn't really measuring anything anymore maybe they can be completely removed without any ECU codes. Question on the headers....do they come with EGR provisions? Or how did you still get that hooked up? When you get pics, be sure to post them.

lexluthr69,

Im curious about this shifter....I have always thought of it as a piece of metal one way or the other. What does it do differently?

 

It seems that those TAD/TAB just run to all those check valves that are no longer around via vac lines. I will start playing around at some point.

I may just leave the sensors there, I really want all the vac lines cleared up. If the sensors are there maybe the computer will be okay with the rest of the nonsense missing.

EGR provisions...? Like AIR injection tubes? The only thing that is on the header was a heat riser for a carb'd truck. There was no O2 bung or anything.

I am getting the pics developed today and will scan them. Are there any free servers where to post up pics. I am pretty dumb with adding pics online...

 

I think we're on the same wavelength...Im talking about were the EGR tube is supposed to tap into the exhaust manifolds. On both my engines it is located on the front of the manifold passenger side. Kind of sounds to me like you disconnected the EGR too.

Actually, you can load the pics right onto this site. Just go to the "user cp" button at the top of the page and log into your accound to upload the pics, etc. Also, If you have any pics of your engine compartment I would love to see them so I can figure out how you have everything set up. But I gotta get back to work now.

 

Ooooooh, the one mounted on the side the intake manifold? That is still on my truck. With the white sensor on top. The EGR is still there as it works. Exhaust gas from the heads goes up through ports inside they cylinder heads, through that valve, and back into the intake tract.

I got rid of: air tube that ran to factory cats, air tube to check valve on cylinder heads, check valve on cylinder heads, canister behind battery to smog pump, and well that's about it. Basically every thing hooked up to that smog pump.

I did take some pics of the motor..I think. It was a few days ago. lol

 

Hit Man, when you say carb heat riser, do you mean the lil 1/4" diameter tube that is/was mounted on the passenger side header? If so, that would really explain what the heck that thing was for... I couldn't remember if that was something that I didn't reconnect when I put it all together!!

Gamehunter,
The Hurst shifter is actually more than just the "stick" protruding up into the cab. This is actually the shifter assembly, and advertises that it reduces stick throw by about 30%. However, I've noticed an even bigger difference over the advertised, but this was probably due to normal wear and tear on my 13 year old stock shifter. Whereas, I used to have lots of play when in any gear (approximately 1-2" of travel at the top of the shifter ****) there is now almost none!!! It really tightened it up, and gave me a new feeling for my tranny as well.

 

Yeah that little tube. I cut part of it off with a cut off wheel and bent the other part off...then gained about a 1/4" hole and sounds about as nasty as glasspacks on a vehicle with no cats! Just terrible (hope I don't offend anyone by saying that!)

I cut if off b/c for my life I could not get that last bolt in the back. Thankfully my friend opted to take a road trip with me and came along to help out. Good thing we didn't drink any beer while spinning wrenches or my head would have been spinning instead! lol

I hope those pics come out as I took them in the middle of the night...

 

Did you buy an X-pipe or make one?
What's the primary tube dia on those headres.

John

 

I went with a Y-pipe. 1.5" primaries and a 2.5" collector

 

Yeah, I meant y-pipe. I said x-pipe becuase I had the race car on the brain.

Did you make your own y-pipe or does Hooker make one?

John