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so i got bored...

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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 03:01 PM
  #1  
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so i got bored...

turns out that my oil pan seal was fine... and did not pull the motor over the south texas gtg...

what was actually leaking... was the dang dipstick tube adapter flange.
i remember reading a thread on the reseal... without having the kit to do it.
i figured i could make it look cleaner, and still hold the black stuff in the tub.

it really went surprisingly smooth.
i used the seal that was already in there... just pulled it out... simple greened it.. and set it aside while i used the telekenetic manipulation required to maneuver the tip of the bad@ss grey ford sealant. the trick is to get the track the oring rides in good and goopy before putting the oring back in there... then the grey goo holds it in its track so it doesnt get boogered up later...

then i smeared grey goo on the oring itself... to make the seal inside the oilpan complete. once i was satisfied it was covered, and pretty sure i didnt drop any goo down into the oil pan... fed the flange back into its home...

this part was puckery...
the .45 bore brush tried to unscrew from the cleaning rod... and i cought the end of it with my fingertips just as it was about to go clunk...

with the flange nut started... i made another thick bead with the goo at the outside seam...
tightened the flange nut...
wiped away excess.

then i left it alone for 8 hours...

for the tube to flange oring...
that took a few tries...
ended up curing that little leak with the skinny green oring, and one of the tan orings from a previous fuel bowl rebuild...

this is why its a good idea to hang on to old orings if not totally jacked up.

so...

now my dipstic assembly doesnt leak...

no 45$ spent on parts and extra tools...

recycled some trash...


and in the down time i hard mounted my sub box in back (sounds so much cleaner)

and i got froggy and yanked my pcm out to verify stuff...

it is not a pmt2 like i thought it was... its a NVK4 code.

had a bullydog x14 4bank chip that was given to me...
prepared my pcm to accept it by scraping off the goop and buffing the silvery crap off the pins.

installed... reassembled, crossed my fingers and stuffed it back in its home.

Motorbug fired right up.
one trip around the block yielded me tunnel vision from the acceleration, and my face hurts from dar oober grin.

it will tide me over till i can get my hydra...
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 03:42 PM
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Good write up. If you didn't have quick hands, it could have been more interesting...

Welcome to the world of tuned/chipped super duties. Oh I've got to get my hands on a hydra as well. Or Atleast buy the TS burner and talk Bill or Corey into letting me in on some of the other tunes for my truck. I'm thinking about getting some of the shift strategies tweaked just a bit too.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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it was all Tugly's fault! it was HE who introduced me to the potential! lol

its neat having to keep out of the skinny to keep from popping overboost code...

my ses light has never been so friendly!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Glad your chip worked but that "silver crap" that you buffed off of the pins ( on the PCM ? ) was the tinning that helps prevent corrosion and makes better contact with the connection. Take too much off and the chip won't seat fully.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hydro man 17
Glad your chip worked but that "silver crap" that you buffed off of the pins ( on the PCM ? ) was the tinning that helps prevent corrosion and makes better contact with the connection. Take too much off and the chip won't seat fully.
it came off with the resin goop. rather it be gone than flake off and land across a bunch of i/c pins...

it seated on the pcm nicely... didnt wiggle... and no magic smoke when i turned the key...
im a happy camper.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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Right on, You got the oil bottled up and did not release the magic smoke.
Sounds like a good day.

?? You still turn the radio on with the new chip and everything???
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 07:55 PM
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lol doug!
as a matter of fact i have Not had the sterio going since i put the chip in...
that motor/turbo is just to sweet and music by itself.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Christof13T
lol doug!
as a matter of fact i have Not had the sterio going since i put the chip in...
that motor/turbo is just to sweet and music by itself.
Just wait till you get those Tbolt clamps on and fix those injectors that aren't spitting...
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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guess what im doing tomorrow
well ill get the last 4 tbolt clamps on... sticks will have to wait...
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Christof13T
it was all Tugly's fault! it was HE who introduced me to the potential! lol

its neat having to keep out of the skinny to keep from popping overboost code...

my ses light has never been so friendly!
It sounds like you're getting to the point where I was before I fired off the ol' Buck$Zooka and blew Stinky into a PTSD fit (Post-Trigger Super Duty).
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 09:11 PM
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I loved the ride. Acceleration is similar to what I have experienced. I just don't have the boost you do. I need to get some of the plenum inserts as t clamps for my spider boots. Then talk to Matt at Gearhead.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:19 PM
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rich,

why the dice seem to like rolling snakes for you is a mystery... and i feel for you brother. im going to have to agree with others tho... just drive it... noisy doesnt mean broken. i know i put concerns about the cups back on the table... but let stinky give you a symptom before getting too worried...

when i drove stinky... that was with new sticks the first go around eh?
maybe its my 4.10 gearing... but yah... wow... it was like being in an 11500lb stinky with the same acceleration.

i dont see the need for any further hardware mods save for maybe a wwg2 down the road.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 07:43 PM
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and the boredom continued...

so i was reading the threads about greasing the front hubs...
decided to go ahead and knock it out...

this was much more of an undertaking than originally anticipated.

passengers side rotor has a valley ground into it and the pads were pretty much just locked onto it. busted the bleeder loose to let off the pressure... prybar in between the slots on the caliper and kinda pryed a little against the rotor to relax the pistons... took some profanity grease... but it finally came off...

next was the rotor...

it was rust welded to the hub...

needless to say... that was all kinds of fun... and now my deadblow hammer has 2 shiny metal ends exposed... Harbor Freight!! Here I Come!!


biggest pita was getting the rotors off... everything else was gravy.

while i had it all apart...

i grabbed my angle grinder with what was left of the cup brush on it... (Geeze Guys!! lol that thing was all but gone lmao)

both rotors have been cleansed of their rust...

and have both been given a fresh coat of rust inhibitor.




this actually took the better part of the day today. those rotors were REALLy stuck on there...
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #14  
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I hate to do this to you, but this actually works really well on our trucks. The video is a little funny too...



But good job on getting everything greased up
 
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #15  
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Ted must have destroyed that grinder before I got to it, there wasn't much left when I started cleaning up my IC tube.

Did you take the hub off and grease the needle bearing?
 
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