code 1212, 1211.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
I think it is the chip. If it were happening under hard acceleration I would be suspect of the HPOP or o-rings but if it goes away when you unhook the chip.....
The solution is pretty logical, in my opinion.
The solution is pretty logical, in my opinion.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 1
I had a problem similar when my oil bypass fell out of my oil filter housing the 96's still had the staked in design instead of the snap ring? Mine fell out a small piece of something I'm assuming worked its way into the ipr and it stuck. This was a long time ago so I don't remember the code exactly but it was like 12** icp not controlable or some B.S. easy check if you can't find anything else.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
If it does, that means you have a bad ICP and need a new one. If it doesn't the next thing it to either check the voltage at the ICP, or better yet get the truck on a scanner that can read live data and see what you're actually running for ICP.
When it sets the CEL, what are you doing with the truck (i.e. idling, driving normally, WOT, towing, etc.)?
When it sets the CEL, what are you doing with the truck (i.e. idling, driving normally, WOT, towing, etc.)?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Paying him to get some live data might be cheaper than guessing and swapping parts...
Here is the procedure for testing the ICP, but without a scanner on the truck, you have nothing to which to compare the readings so you don't really know whether the ICP is reading correctly or not.
ICP:
500 PSI ICP pressure needed to fire injectors. Unplugging the ICP will cause the PCM to default to around 750 PSI on the IPR.
Holding the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
At key on, you should get a .25v to .4v signal. Operational range for the sensor is .65v to 3.25v. Some approximate pressures compared to voltage signal would be:
500psi = about .85-.87v
1000psi = about 1.4v
1800psi = about 2.3v
2400psi = about 3v
3000psi = about 3.8v
The only other thing you can do is to try a different ICP, or build your own manual HPO gauge that you can use to see what you're getting at the heads. Here is the procedure for that:
HPO Gauge:
You might spend $60 or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled gauge, but having this hose available for future diagnostics will make it worth it.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose. This single fitting will be a 90 degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the HPO galley plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for reinstallation , after testing). The O-rings are reusable, unless brittle, cracked, etc... The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
Good luck with the testing.
Here is the procedure for testing the ICP, but without a scanner on the truck, you have nothing to which to compare the readings so you don't really know whether the ICP is reading correctly or not.
ICP:
500 PSI ICP pressure needed to fire injectors. Unplugging the ICP will cause the PCM to default to around 750 PSI on the IPR.
Holding the ICP connector looking into it with the latch on top, the left pin is Vref, center is ICP signal, and right is Signal return. The corresponding wire colors should be brown/white, dark blue/light green, and grey/red.
At key on, you should get a .25v to .4v signal. Operational range for the sensor is .65v to 3.25v. Some approximate pressures compared to voltage signal would be:
500psi = about .85-.87v
1000psi = about 1.4v
1800psi = about 2.3v
2400psi = about 3v
3000psi = about 3.8v
The only other thing you can do is to try a different ICP, or build your own manual HPO gauge that you can use to see what you're getting at the heads. Here is the procedure for that:
HPO Gauge:
You might spend $60 or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled gauge, but having this hose available for future diagnostics will make it worth it.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose. This single fitting will be a 90 degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the HPO galley plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for reinstallation , after testing). The O-rings are reusable, unless brittle, cracked, etc... The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
Good luck with the testing.
