wrapping a harness
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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wrapping a harness
I have been wrapping my wires with the plastic protective sheathing most prod. vehicles are wrapped with, then after that I have been wrapping round and round solid and tight the plastic sheathing with friction tape.
I decided to use this because as far as I have experienced decent quality electrical tape that will stick for any length of time cannot be found.
The problem with the friction tape is god forbid you have to get at a wire ever again or want to add a wire to the loom.
What do you guys do, am I being overly cautious to wrap the entire harness with the friction tape, I am assuming I want to keep all water out and away so that is where I am at.
I decided to use this because as far as I have experienced decent quality electrical tape that will stick for any length of time cannot be found.
The problem with the friction tape is god forbid you have to get at a wire ever again or want to add a wire to the loom.
What do you guys do, am I being overly cautious to wrap the entire harness with the friction tape, I am assuming I want to keep all water out and away so that is where I am at.
New User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 21
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i dont bouther with the tape i am in and out of the harness wrap some times i will dubble wrap with harness wrap to keep from chaping or heat better to live with my mistakes then get mad at the man who did the work i could have done
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I use 3M's Super 33 Plus tape as my electrical friends tell me it is the best I can get within reason.
As for how to protect wire runs, I use split loom and usually tape the ends to keep the wire from working its way out of the loom. But, I don't wrap the whole run of loom because water is going to get in and I want it to be able to get out easily and not sit in there.
As for how to protect wire runs, I use split loom and usually tape the ends to keep the wire from working its way out of the loom. But, I don't wrap the whole run of loom because water is going to get in and I want it to be able to get out easily and not sit in there.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
There is something called Elliott Tape that can sometimes be gotten from eBay and such, this is the stuff Ford used at the factory and sticks to itself without any glue.
Electrical tape makes a gooey mess when you go unwrap it years later.
Thanks for Jeff (fmc400) in the 73-79 forum for this.
Electrical tape makes a gooey mess when you go unwrap it years later.
Thanks for Jeff (fmc400) in the 73-79 forum for this.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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Ok well I was concerned this might be as a silly post but I have some good answers, yes split loom, that is what I have wrapped everything in.
I wrapped my steel fuel lines in rubber fuel line to keep that from chafing and possible rubbing thru then of course used the appropriate rubber coated metal straps to secure that to the inside of the frame rail.
I will have to check out the 3M tape and I may just double wrap it with the split loom, Harbor freight.....I have had a 300 dollar gift certificate since before Christmas that I have been trying very hard to burn thru, its not easy, alot of times I buy something and am so disgusted I end up returning it.
They do make some good stuff, blast cabinet, chop saw a few other things that I have kept and think well worth the money but some other things make me wonder.
I wrapped my steel fuel lines in rubber fuel line to keep that from chafing and possible rubbing thru then of course used the appropriate rubber coated metal straps to secure that to the inside of the frame rail.
I will have to check out the 3M tape and I may just double wrap it with the split loom, Harbor freight.....I have had a 300 dollar gift certificate since before Christmas that I have been trying very hard to burn thru, its not easy, alot of times I buy something and am so disgusted I end up returning it.
They do make some good stuff, blast cabinet, chop saw a few other things that I have kept and think well worth the money but some other things make me wonder.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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There is something called Elliott Tape that can sometimes be gotten from eBay and such, this is the stuff Ford used at the factory and sticks to itself without any glue.
Electrical tape makes a gooey mess when you go unwrap it years later.
Thanks for Jeff (fmc400) in the 73-79 forum for this.
Electrical tape makes a gooey mess when you go unwrap it years later.
Thanks for Jeff (fmc400) in the 73-79 forum for this.
Make me sound country bumkin but I have to show my wife that later, amazing
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
A couple of tricks with wrapping with electrical tape, or Elliott Tape when restoring wiring to look factory original.
1: Try and use one piece the whole length.
2: Start about two inches from the end, and wrap toward the end untill it reaches around the 1/2 inch range. (This will let you see the colors of the wires later.) Then start the other way wrapping over the small section that you already did, and continue with the rest of the harness. Then when you reach the other end or a wye in the wiring, wrap up to 1/2 inch of the end, and wrap back aproximately two inches. This will keep the ends from coming loose as easily.
1: Try and use one piece the whole length.
2: Start about two inches from the end, and wrap toward the end untill it reaches around the 1/2 inch range. (This will let you see the colors of the wires later.) Then start the other way wrapping over the small section that you already did, and continue with the rest of the harness. Then when you reach the other end or a wye in the wiring, wrap up to 1/2 inch of the end, and wrap back aproximately two inches. This will keep the ends from coming loose as easily.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
A couple of tricks with wrapping with electrical tape, or Elliott Tape when restoring wiring to look factory original.
1: Try and use one piece the whole length.
2: Start about two inches from the end, and wrap toward the end untill it reaches around the 1/2 inch range. (This will let you see the colors of the wires later.) Then start the other way wrapping over the small section that you already did, and continue with the rest of the harness. Then when you reach the other end or a wye in the wiring, wrap up to 1/2 inch of the end, and wrap back aproximately two inches. This will keep the ends from coming loose as easily.
1: Try and use one piece the whole length.
2: Start about two inches from the end, and wrap toward the end untill it reaches around the 1/2 inch range. (This will let you see the colors of the wires later.) Then start the other way wrapping over the small section that you already did, and continue with the rest of the harness. Then when you reach the other end or a wye in the wiring, wrap up to 1/2 inch of the end, and wrap back aproximately two inches. This will keep the ends from coming loose as easily.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 64
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From: ok
novel idea, but when i build a harness from scratch, i also include a secondary backup with open wires that i can tap and route to my liking. it doesnt have to be in your main harness, and is easier if it is not.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
When I rewired my truck from front to back, I had to build my harnesses from pieces. The parts donor truck was a standard cab 1990 F-250, so I had to add 35" to the length to fit my crew cab. The front I had a 1992 front harness, a 1993 and a part from a 1995 Bronco. I also wanted relays for the trailer stop and turn.
When I finished building them I wrapped the harnesses with Autozone or Northern Tool plastic electrical tape then slid split sleeving over them and taped it. I kept any tabs Ford used in place. The end result looks factory and is weatherproof as all splices are soldered and heat shrunk. I also stagger them so I don't end up with a huge "bump" at the joint. If I can't do an entire wire in the original color, I will extend it with two splices so the connector ends are correct.
I did the same thing on my 85 LeBaron convertible when I converted it from a 2.6L NA to a 2.2L Turbo II.
When I finished building them I wrapped the harnesses with Autozone or Northern Tool plastic electrical tape then slid split sleeving over them and taped it. I kept any tabs Ford used in place. The end result looks factory and is weatherproof as all splices are soldered and heat shrunk. I also stagger them so I don't end up with a huge "bump" at the joint. If I can't do an entire wire in the original color, I will extend it with two splices so the connector ends are correct.
I did the same thing on my 85 LeBaron convertible when I converted it from a 2.6L NA to a 2.2L Turbo II.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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You can do this yourself, maybe impress your wife with it
Let me google that for you
Fill in the search term, hit one of the buttons, it'll create a hyperlink that you share with others that does all the typing (just like you saw).
Let me google that for you
Fill in the search term, hit one of the buttons, it'll create a hyperlink that you share with others that does all the typing (just like you saw).
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 661
Likes: 0
A couple of tricks with wrapping with electrical tape, or Elliott Tape when restoring wiring to look factory original.
1: Try and use one piece the whole length.
2: Start about two inches from the end, and wrap toward the end untill it reaches around the 1/2 inch range. (This will let you see the colors of the wires later.) Then start the other way wrapping over the small section that you already did, and continue with the rest of the harness. Then when you reach the other end or a wye in the wiring, wrap up to 1/2 inch of the end, and wrap back aproximately two inches. This will keep the ends from coming loose as easily.
1: Try and use one piece the whole length.
2: Start about two inches from the end, and wrap toward the end untill it reaches around the 1/2 inch range. (This will let you see the colors of the wires later.) Then start the other way wrapping over the small section that you already did, and continue with the rest of the harness. Then when you reach the other end or a wye in the wiring, wrap up to 1/2 inch of the end, and wrap back aproximately two inches. This will keep the ends from coming loose as easily.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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I did do this initially and may continue with this before all said and done, thanks