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20 degree start with 675 cca batteries installed new in October 2006, never use the engine heater. I've been thinking of replacing the batteries since last summer, but as long as it keep starting this well I may just wait a little longer.
Oh ya this truck is not a DD and is rarely driven in the winter and being a 2wd dually, never in the snow, it just don't go Click The Link BELOW the picture to view the video:
Does your wts light flash? It looked like it was flashing, but was hard to tell. It sounds like you are going to need batteries soon, but I guess if you don't drive it in the winter, you may be able to hold off for a little while.
It cranked slow because the 675 CCA batteries are too weak for the truck. Minimum spec is 850 CCA per side. Both our '95s start at 10F with aprx. 30 seconds of glow plug run, block heater not plugged in, with less crank time than that. At 20F, we don't even plug it in at home.
And if you need a manual switch for the glow plugs, then something's wrong with the wiring to the PCM. It should keep the glow plug relay energized long after the WTS light goes off. How exactly do you have that switch wired.
Does your wts light flash? It looked like it was flashing, but was hard to tell. It sounds like you are going to need batteries soon, but I guess if you don't drive it in the winter, you may be able to hold off for a little while.
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My wait to start light works pretty normal as far as I know. I think what you were seeing that resembled flashing was the camera focus, my old camera just don't like the cold any better than I do
It cranked slow because the 675 CCA batteries are too weak for the truck. Minimum spec is 850 CCA per side. Both our '95s start at 10F with aprx. 30 seconds of glow plug run, block heater not plugged in, with less crank time than that. At 20F, we don't even plug it in at home.
And if you need a manual switch for the glow plugs, then something's wrong with the wiring to the PCM. It should keep the glow plug relay energized long after the WTS light goes off. How exactly do you have that switch wired.
I have been very satisfied with the way my truck has started for almost 6 1/2 years now with the same 675 amp batteries, actually i'm quite amazed. I'm by no means suggesting anyone here buy 675 cca batteries. When I bought this truck in 2006 I agreed to purchase it on a Sunday, so not having the funds in hand we agreed on the next day to complete the transaction. I called him to say I was ready to head over to his house, well he said to meet me at a local Les Schwab tire store. When I got there he was having new batteries installed for me. I had no idea at that time 675 would not be the recommended size, but I was pleased that he was inclined to do that. When I see the need I will purchase 850 cca's or larger.
Here is a link to a write up I did a little over a year ago https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...with-pics.html
The way I did it is not a suggestion for anyone else to do it this way, There seems to be a few different ways to do it. The switch I used is a momentary switch so I don't have to worry about forgetting to turn it off. For me I like having the ability to control how long the gp's stay on. I understand that the pcm is supposed to do all this so I wouldn't have to, but I do like having control of that part of the system. Just me
I remember that mod. It turns the glow plugs OFF earlier than the PCM does, so you get a slower warm-up after start. But I suppose it extends the GP life in a less extreme climate.
That's pretty amazing that 675'ers lasted 6 years starting a PSD. Then again 20F isn't that "cold", compared to many places. If memory serves, WA gets neither extreme heat nor extreme cold, which are both battery-killers.
They can turn off early, it's really controlled by how long I want to hold the switch on. With the very cold starts I hold it on considerably longer, if I turn it off to early it will start to smoke and I can turn the gp's back on and it stops right away. I agree with the heat and cold not being the batteries friend.
I grew up in western WA (Seattle) and the weather is quite a bit milder than the far eastern WA where I am, We can see temps in the summer for a week or so above 100 and I've seen it 114. I have lived in Spokane for 33 yrs now and have seen lows of -20 but that is rare, thank god. Its foretasted to go to the teens and single digits this week. Maybe I'll try another start if it gets below 10, just for the hell of it. I know those batteries can't have much life left in them, I just don't need to drive it when it's very cold.
If the roads are good I will take her out just for a good run every few weeks though just to get her good and warmed up.
I watched your video and I always find it interesting to see how others well maintained trucks start cold. So on that note, thanks!!! Now I have a question I notided when you pressed the glow plug switch your amp meter dropped even more So why is that? Is your pcm disconnected from the GP relay with that mod? Or does it send the GP's more amps on top of what the PCM and oem Relay can provide?
I think that is a very good question, I don't know the answer but I have noticed that too and never investigated, maybe because it works for me the way it is and I'm to lazy. For all I know it could be normal, I don't have anything to compare it too. I just went out and checked to verify, when I turn the key on the wait to start light comes on and the amp or voltage gauge drops to the low part of the N. Then after the wait to start light goes off I hold the momentary switch on and the needle goes further down about half way between the N and the 8 and stays there until I think it's long enough to start and then a few seconds later I release the switch depending on how cold it is. I do not have to go thru this procedure once the truck has warmed up a little.
That's a voltmeter, not an ammeter. The PCM is disconnected from the GP relay, per his original mod thread (disconnected switched-ground wire). That means that if you're not holding the switch while the WTS light is on, the glow plugs are NOT running. The meter drops a little when you first turn the key to RUN because of the draw of the PCM and the HVAC fan. The drop with the glow plug switch is what's expected.
If you run a block heater, it's helpful to set the HVAC to the windshield defrost position, because some of the heated coolant actually gurgles through the heater core, and it gets the defrost working faster. But if you don't use the block heater, it's better to have the HVAC turned off so the fan isn't drawing while you're waiting to start.
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