A few words about Flatheads
There are several types of Flatmotors - Those before 1948/49 and those after
The engine used before 1948 in Ford Trucks, 1949 for Ford Cars had a half bell housing cast in the block - I gave up some time back trying to figure out how many combinations of blocks, bearings, heads, water pump designs, etc that are out there - If you decide on an early motor I would suggest a 59A series.
The Flatmotor built after 48/49 were the Ford 239 Cu In and the Mercury 255 Cu In the ford had a shorter stroke the the Merc (4").
The Flatmotor was made to 1952 in the US and 1953 Canada
Oops - There are French Flatheads floating around - You can even run into fresh blocks.

As always peoples will be around to either to - Correct my mistakes, add more information or cause more confusion

 

Thanks Dick. My initial research leads me to believe I want to limit myself to the late flatties. Other opinions welcomed, but here is why I say that.

1. I don't really know for sure what I will install this thing into eventually. There is a possibility it could go in my 53, but I doubt that. My 53 is too modernized, and damned heavy. That card has been played long ago. It would be foolish to lose all the time and effort removing creature comforts from a truck I could sell so easily as it sits. I say it will go in a 48-50 F1, Maybe it finds a home in a 40s car instead? This is the engine for my retirement project which is approaching fast.

2. Why do I want a flatty? And what do I expect from it? I just want to do something different (exciting for me) Not about the max powerthis time. I recently completed a 347 stroker for my 94 steet/strip stang. Waiting for the dragstrip to open this spring so I can get promptly kicked off the track for not having a cage etc. I just don't want to dump more money into that project. It flies as it is and I will just enjoy it. I am at the point where it is stupid expensive to go faster and it is a bad investment.

Bottomline is I want to build a flatty that will eventually approach 175-200HP, freedom to use various manual trannies in the future (old or somewhat modern trans (with synchros), I want decent availability of performance parts. I do not want to buy a mailorder engine, I will only hire out the machinework I can't accomplish myself.

A later flatty is best for this right?

 

You will get all sorts of arguments on which is best for original, slight mods or full blown builds
Some folks like the 59 models because they have the water outlet in the upper center of the heads - With one slight mod the center outlet heads can be used on the 48/49 engines

WARNING - You will get a bunch of arguments when you talk about the 1948 Flatmotor as being the new design - There are a lot of folks that don't know they were introduced in 1948 with the Trucks.

I prefer the 48 and newer motors because ---- I do
Building for horsepower can get expensive real quick - A 4" rotating assembly, a mild cam (For the rump, rump) some porting, a snazzy maniflod and heads with an electronic ignition - will give you looks feel and maybe a little stoplight fun with out having to sell the 53 and the Stang

 

I was told that some drag racers are using flatheads and running them "inside-out" (or perhaps "backwards"). The intake is used as the exhaust and vice-versa. Beats me.

 

I'm chuckling right now Dick (make that a belly laugh). Feel free to save this post for a good "I told ya so" but I don't think you will get a chance. Here is a sample of what I am used to since I left the forum.

Stroker 347 shortblock assy using a a girly factory 302 block $2500
Heads- 1500
Cam and Valvetrain upgrades for a little more RPM- 1000
Intake,other induction stuff-1000
EFI and fuel system upgrades- 750
Software and hardware so I can tune the computerized monster myself 750
Nitrous stuff- 750
MISC-I lost track of cost
Nevermind the drivetrain I twist like it's potmetal.

I don't think a flatty with my goals is gonna scare me.

 

Saved

You have one saving grace going for you - Most that go down the expensive path and get overwhelmed are young

 

So being old and foolish is to my advantage?

At the risk of turning this thread into a chat, as if that actually concerns me

I have been a gearhead for over thirty years. Countless times I have started a project I couldn't really afford, and was then forced to compromise the end product because providing for my family and putting away for the future was more important. I remember the 454 powered Nova that ran only 13.9 because I couldn't begin to afford traction and finish college too. A 31 Chevy sedan body I restored to perfection, and couldn't afford to finish. A 70 Challenger RT 440 car. I get a little sick when I think of what I had to sell that stuff for.

Anyway, retirement is approaching so I will start a flatty project at my pace, and get some of the expense out of the way now while I am still making good pay, because that will end in a few short years, or maybe tomorrow with the military downsizing. I started this thread so I can get my facts together from some people here with experience, and not make too many mistakes as I hopefully procure parts without getting ripped off. A nice flatty will likely end up running on a stand first, I will post video and you guys can offer ideas for improvements.

 

Find a block - It's not that hard even with shipping (I just got a Flathead 6 shipped from Deluth to Erie for $103 that included an extra crank & head)

Buy a 4" rotating assembly that will take you to 286 cu in Screwed that pooch

Buy a cam & Lifters - I like the 400 Jr or tamer L100 - L100 vs 400 jr in a fat fender car? - The Ford Barn

A set of Heads - see the cam thread

A 2x2 manifold

Start playing

 

I like that plan Dick. Couple questions though

How does 396 CI happen? I thought I was limited to under 300. Guess I got some reading to do.

How are you (or your seller) shipping heavy stuff. I have been parting out a 94 Cobra lately and the shipping is just nuts on anything heavy.

And keep me in mind whenever you run across anymore articles that compare speed part choices. Those are most useful for a rookie trying to eiminate stuff off my buy list.

 

Read this then ask questions

Ford Flathead V8 Performance Guide - Hot Rod Magazine

 

Yes Sir, right after I finish my chores.

 

One correction Dick; production was to '53 in the US, '54 ROW (rest of world).

A Merc 4" crank with stock bore gets you to 255, but with that and a big overbore you can get to 286. (actually you may need a 4.25 crank to get there, the Techno Site has a chart that will tell you)

 

This guy is pretty sharp with flatheads and making them go faster;
Roadrunner Engineering - Home - Supercharge Your Ford Flathead

I've met him personally, he's got some great cars and is a heck of a nice guy. I dont know much about flattys myself but he seem spretty kmowledgeable

Bobby

 

From the 2005 HotRod article Dick posted, it appears stroker cranks as large as 4.5 may even be available. You can go well past 300CI if you open your wallet wide enough. The amount they can be bored and stroked is impressive compared to the thinwall castings of most any engine released since. Seems like a flatty block should be pretty durable if you upgrade the cooling system.

 

The cooling systems are fine, IF the block and radiator are clean.

Anything past 4.125 stroke needs grinding on the pan rails and bottom of the cylinder for clearance, $$$ rods & pistons, etc. Compression gets too high, too. IMO stick with a Merc for a street engine. Flatheads run out of breath quickly, and can't spin real fast (3 mains). If you really want big HP, look elsewhere or buy a blower. (Joe Abbin is the guy for that, as Bobby pointed out)