12v Heating?
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 32
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From: Spokane, WA
12v Heating?
Hey all,
After this past weekend, without a place to plug my pick-up in over night, my truck was very difficult to start for about 30 minutes. I was wondering if there is anything out there that would help with the frozen fuel issue, when the block heater cannot be plugged in. Something that might be able to hook up to the batteries, and run on them?
//Dave
After this past weekend, without a place to plug my pick-up in over night, my truck was very difficult to start for about 30 minutes. I was wondering if there is anything out there that would help with the frozen fuel issue, when the block heater cannot be plugged in. Something that might be able to hook up to the batteries, and run on them?
//Dave
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 3
From: Pea Ridge, AR
Did you actually have gelled fuel? Are you running any anti-gelling additives?
How cold are we talking about?
Is the GPR and GP's working properly?
Clean fully charged batteries and clean tight connections?
What weight oil are you currently running?
Many of these stem from Ford saying that the block heater is not necessary to start until quite a ways below zero IIRC. I don't think that any 12V system would be effective enough to properly warm, yet also leave enough power to start the truck. I do know that there are some stick on heating pads however that some use, but I thought they were still 110V.
How cold are we talking about?
Is the GPR and GP's working properly?
Clean fully charged batteries and clean tight connections?
What weight oil are you currently running?
Many of these stem from Ford saying that the block heater is not necessary to start until quite a ways below zero IIRC. I don't think that any 12V system would be effective enough to properly warm, yet also leave enough power to start the truck. I do know that there are some stick on heating pads however that some use, but I thought they were still 110V.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Spokane, WA
Alan, Unfortunately I do not have the answers to any of your questions, except part of #1, and #2. I am not running any anti-gelling additive, and the temps got down to maybe the single digits.
It appears that when I do not plug the block heater in, the motor turns over until it sounds "tired" and the batteries are worn out. Turn off the key, and try again after the WTS light goes out, and same thing. No issues when it is plugged in.
I recently bought the pick-up, and have done nothing on the maintenance side, as it appeared that it was all done. Oil looked clean still, and batteries are fairly new. It was purchased from someone in the same region, so I would think the fluids are all appropriate.
As far as the GPR and GP working, how would I know?
I have never owed a diesel, and am fairly mechanically-declined.
I am planning a full once over in the Spring when it warms up a bit.
Any advise that can be offered is greatly appreciated.
//Dave
It appears that when I do not plug the block heater in, the motor turns over until it sounds "tired" and the batteries are worn out. Turn off the key, and try again after the WTS light goes out, and same thing. No issues when it is plugged in.
I recently bought the pick-up, and have done nothing on the maintenance side, as it appeared that it was all done. Oil looked clean still, and batteries are fairly new. It was purchased from someone in the same region, so I would think the fluids are all appropriate.
As far as the GPR and GP working, how would I know?
I have never owed a diesel, and am fairly mechanically-declined.
I am planning a full once over in the Spring when it warms up a bit.
Any advise that can be offered is greatly appreciated.
//Dave
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 3
From: Pea Ridge, AR
You are likely running what is called "dino" around here, being highly likely 15W-40 oil, many including myself benefit greatly from switching to a full synthetic in either a 5W-40 or 0W-40. I run 5W-40 year round. This alone can greatly improve that "tired" feeling.
As far as the GPR(Glow Plug Relay) and GP's(Glow Plugs) I would first look at the GPR, and when the key is turned on , check the voltage on the output side of things to see if voltage is getting to the GP's. Usually a first sign of a faulty GPR or GP's would be lots of white smoke at start up. Here is a good thread on testing https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ke-thread.html
I would try to find out what weight oil if you can, as I would think that is your likeliest solution based on your description. I actually don't think you had gelled fuel, but Diesel Kleen (White Bottle for winter) is what I run during the winter, and if you actually did run into a gelled situation, they have 911 to clear it up.
As far as the GPR(Glow Plug Relay) and GP's(Glow Plugs) I would first look at the GPR, and when the key is turned on , check the voltage on the output side of things to see if voltage is getting to the GP's. Usually a first sign of a faulty GPR or GP's would be lots of white smoke at start up. Here is a good thread on testing https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ke-thread.html
I would try to find out what weight oil if you can, as I would think that is your likeliest solution based on your description. I actually don't think you had gelled fuel, but Diesel Kleen (White Bottle for winter) is what I run during the winter, and if you actually did run into a gelled situation, they have 911 to clear it up.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Spokane, WA
Thanks for info. I do not think that I have any white smoke at start up, but will watch think in the morning. I will also plan on testing the GPR soon. I was already planning on switching to a synthetic 5W-40 in the Spring. I'll try and get hold of the seller (I think I have his number somewhere) and see if he knows what he put in the last oil change. As he was a heavy equipment operator, I would guess that he was using 5W, but who knows?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
If your glow plugs / gpr weren't working, you would have noticed the thick cloud of white smoke being churned out the tailpipe while cranking.
Sounds like your batteries are wearing down from the cranking. As mentioned, make sure the connections are clean and tight. For the fuel gelling issue, drain some fuel from your fuel bowl. There's a yellow lever on the back of the bowl that rotates clockwise so instead of pointing to the passenger side, it points back at the cab. There should be a hose attached to it and the fuel will drain out of that hose. When the key is first turned on (engine not running), the fuel pump will run for 30 seconds. Flip that lever open within those 30 seconds and see is the fuel coming out has good pressure behind it. Or drain some fuel out tonight into a plastic bottle and leave it out next to your truck. See if the fuel is gelled in the morning.
Something else that should help, if the glow plug system is working, then it will stay on close to two minutes at those temperatures. Ignore the little light on the dash and leave the key on for a good 30 seconds before you try and start. See if the extra heat helps it starting.
Sounds like your batteries are wearing down from the cranking. As mentioned, make sure the connections are clean and tight. For the fuel gelling issue, drain some fuel from your fuel bowl. There's a yellow lever on the back of the bowl that rotates clockwise so instead of pointing to the passenger side, it points back at the cab. There should be a hose attached to it and the fuel will drain out of that hose. When the key is first turned on (engine not running), the fuel pump will run for 30 seconds. Flip that lever open within those 30 seconds and see is the fuel coming out has good pressure behind it. Or drain some fuel out tonight into a plastic bottle and leave it out next to your truck. See if the fuel is gelled in the morning.
Something else that should help, if the glow plug system is working, then it will stay on close to two minutes at those temperatures. Ignore the little light on the dash and leave the key on for a good 30 seconds before you try and start. See if the extra heat helps it starting.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,888
Likes: 180
From: Morgan Hill, CA
Before I had a functional GPR I used to carry a small propane heater along when I went camping. I'd fire that sucker up and put it under the oil pan for an hour or so before starting and it was a decent stop gap measure.
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
a block heater draws around 1000 watts, and will kill your batteries in a very fast fashion.
if you do not have access to 120 volts to plug the truck in, your only other option is a diesel powered block heater.
Webasto TSL-17 Coolant (Hydronic) Heater
if you do not have access to 120 volts to plug the truck in, your only other option is a diesel powered block heater.
Webasto TSL-17 Coolant (Hydronic) Heater
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Lansdale, PA
It doesn't matter what the previous owner used for oil.
Unless YOU just changed the oil, change it. Then you know it's good, and you know what it is. I'd use an all season oil myself, but the new 5w-40 is pretty awesome.
If your fuel was gelled, it wouldn't start. Most diesel now has some form of antigel in it due to being winter time (in the northern states) but you still should always carry diesel kleen products to add to your fuel every fillup.
You'll know if your glow plugs and relay are working cause your volt gauge will tell you. If you want to test each glow plug you'll need to remove valve cover. Just because your meter drops a lot doesn't mean you don't have 1-3 bad ones.
Your starter is old. Invest in one. I thought I read on here that the 6liter starter bolts in and spins faster (with the same current draw) or just get a new replacement. Batteries may seem good, but diesels draw a lot of current and can weaken a crappy battery. Problem is you need to buy two at a time. Mixing an old and new battery isn't reccomended.
Lots you can do. Just need to figure out what's right for you.
(I have on my old tractor, a propane "tank heater". It works awesome but I don't even know if they sell them anymore)
Unless YOU just changed the oil, change it. Then you know it's good, and you know what it is. I'd use an all season oil myself, but the new 5w-40 is pretty awesome.
If your fuel was gelled, it wouldn't start. Most diesel now has some form of antigel in it due to being winter time (in the northern states) but you still should always carry diesel kleen products to add to your fuel every fillup.
You'll know if your glow plugs and relay are working cause your volt gauge will tell you. If you want to test each glow plug you'll need to remove valve cover. Just because your meter drops a lot doesn't mean you don't have 1-3 bad ones.
Your starter is old. Invest in one. I thought I read on here that the 6liter starter bolts in and spins faster (with the same current draw) or just get a new replacement. Batteries may seem good, but diesels draw a lot of current and can weaken a crappy battery. Problem is you need to buy two at a time. Mixing an old and new battery isn't reccomended.
Lots you can do. Just need to figure out what's right for you.
(I have on my old tractor, a propane "tank heater". It works awesome but I don't even know if they sell them anymore)
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