Hi guys,

I just thought I would post some tidbits on this since I just did it.

First - driver's side block plug is super easy. You might need a breaker bar though - mine was stuck pretty good. Also, get ready for a bath. You'll need an 8mm allen socket (well, life is a lot easier with one of these).

Passenger's side block plug: Here is my take on this. Unless you want to curse all day, pull the passenger front wheel and wheel liner off. This is a bit of a nuisance, but well worth it. The starter is held in with 3 13mm bolts. The lower two are easy. The top bolt is a pain even with the wheel and liner off. Without the wheel off you are going to have no idea where this bolt is. I used a wobble socket and an air ratchet to remove the top bolt. I tried without the air power, but there was such little room to move the wrench, it was not going to happen easily. With the starter out of the way, the block plug is looking right at you.

Now is a perfect time to put in a block heater cord, if you don't already have one.

I put Fumoto valves in the block plugs - these work great. For the passenger side, you will need a 19mm stubby wrench. It is pretty hard to get a regular size 19mm in there and get it tight.

Once you have the block plugs changed to Fumoto valves, the coolant change is a snap.

BTW, disconnect the batteries before messing with the starter.

Dan

 

Thanks Dan, I've been thinking of making this my next project.

 

Hey sorry to ask but do you have the part number for the valves ?? I'm looking all over the part stores and no one has any clue on them thanks

 

F108N I think I PM'd you a link to check out.

 

f108N are the ones I bought. If you look in the tech folder under coolant change, there is a PDF that goes over everything (other than what I mentioned ) and it shows pictures of the valves installed. It is a real tight fit near the starter and the hose was too kinked to work well so I too it off. The hose was nice to have on the drivers side because it prevents the bath everytime you open the valve. On the passengers side, I was reaching in through the wheel well to open the valve, so I was not worried about getting wet. Remember it is going to be pretty fricking hot when it comes out.

I bought new block plugs as well just for the o-rings - the o-ring set at Harborfreight might be a cheaper way to go. If you are converting to ELC, plan on all day - it is very time consuming doing all the flushes right.

 

That makes me laugh when you mention the top starter bolt Dan. Of everything I've done to my 6.0 when I was P.........G around with that top bolt of my starter, a stretch rack was where I wanted to lay that B.....D who engineered it. I think it has to be the most frustrating thing I've ever dealt with working on the truck.... Even with a wobble extension you can only turn the flipping bolt an 1/8 of a turn at a time and getting a small air ratchet up there is near impossible lol.

 

Yep, That's why I posted this. All the other posts on the starter made it seem like 3 bolts, no big deal. Maybe it is easy with the truck 5 ft in the air. I have as many wobbles and extensions as anyone should - there was no way that bolt was going to be easy other than taking the wheel off. With the wheel off I was able to lay a big air ratchet in there. The wheel liner is a nuisance too

 

For the top starter bold just use a long extension and come in from the front. I had no problem also was able to leave hose on and it was only very slightly kinked. Routed both hoses down and zip tied them to the frame and that way I can catch the coolant and check for debris in it. I did not take wheel off. It only took me about 30-45 min to install both fumoto valves.

 

I could not adjust my hose so that the kink was minor. When I was flushing the cleaners out, I used a garden hose and really revved it a few times - that was when the hose flew off. The driver's side hose stayed on though. How long of an extension did you use?

 

Don't remember how long it was I have a few but I was able to go straight in from the front between the starter and oil pan/block. I used clear hose and some small hose clamps. I have flushed I many times that way without any problem.

 

Good to know there is another way. I hate that wheel liner. I have a lot of long extensions but I did not try them - I guess I did not even realize it was possible. Of course until the wheel came off I had not idea where that bolt was anyway.

 

That was the first time I hade to remove the starter on either of my 6.0. I removed the two obvious bolts to realize there was another and just felt around the top and found it. Then put one of the other ones back in so I would not drop the starter on me.

 

Anyone here wanna buy a pair of new Fumoto block drains with new o-rings? My block drain plugs wouldn't come out and I stripped them out trying to get them out and I'm not gonna go through the trouble of trying to get the Fumoto ones in there.

 

BeezF350 was looking for some a little higher in this post

 

I just pulled the top bolt using a 3/8" drive ratchet, 6" extension and a deep well 1/2" socket, no wheel removal and didn't even jack up the truck. I'm a little worried about reinstalling that bolt, but I'm sure it'll work out.

Thanks for the tip. I scratched my head for 20 minutes looking at it and then came in and found this thread. Love this forum!