Does anyone recognize this blower motor
also, measure the overall diameter of your existing motor and compare that to whatever else you find, even if the ones you find have a large mounting flange like our era of fords do - you can cut off that flange easily enough and make it work
also, measure the overall diameter of your existing motor and compare that to whatever else you find, even if the ones you find have a large mounting flange like our era of fords do - you can cut off that flange easily enough and make it work
I have read some things about an H switch and criss crossing leads there but I would like to hear from someone that has attempted all of this before I spend too much time on it.
P.S. These motors have brushes, so you may not be able to do the above. If you can take the motor windings out and turn them around, it will change the direction. I think you get the idea though if you can figure out how to turn something around inside.
EDIT: I just have now found a possible motor on-line, I may look into its purchase if I get the go ahead from the manuf. that it has same required overall specs.
I am not up on all the stuff they have out now, but when I was looking for alternatives, I was eyeballing this setup they use for hot rods and other vehicles. The motor actually mounts anywhere, usually down near the kickpanel, and it has a cable that moves back and forth and at each wiper spindle it has a rack and pinion setup to turn the wiper arms. It was fairly expensive back then, I don't know if has come down now or not.
A single speed that had nearly the correct overall dimensions was found ( I guess it does fit just not without some modifications ) but I would like the option that I would have had originally in that I have 2 speeds on the motor.
I have seen others post about these cable driven mechanisms but they do seem pricey still.
These later vehicles actually put a hot 12v wire on one side of the motor anytime the keyswitch is in run(and possibly the heater control is not off) and then the blower switch controls the ground. They run the ground of the motor through different resistors to make it run different speeds.
What makes the above motors reversible is they are permanent magnet motors. Basically you have a large stationary magnet on the outside, and the magnet that turns(the rotor) in the middle. You need to change the polarity of just ONE of these magnets. Since the permanent magnet's polarity stays the same and it doesn't need 12v to be a magnet, just changing the wires going to the rotor will make it reverse.
Some motors like the one you have, have a wire wound magnet on the outside so it needs 12v to be a magnet. The problem is they usually tie the outside wired magnet internally to the wiring to the rotor inside the motor. So when trying to swap the wires to change the polarity on the rotor, it also changes the polarity on the outside stator magnet, so it keeps running the same direction. If you take the motor apart, and rewire the leads inside, it will run the opposite direction.
These later vehicles actually put a hot 12v wire on one side of the motor anytime the keyswitch is in run(and possibly the heater control is not off) and then the blower switch controls the ground. They run the ground of the motor through different resistors to make it run different speeds.
What makes the above motors reversible is they are permanent magnet motors. Basically you have a large stationary magnet on the outside, and the magnet that turns(the rotor) in the middle. You need to change the polarity of just ONE of these magnets. Since the permanent magnet's polarity stays the same and it doesn't need 12v to be a magnet, just changing the wires going to the rotor will make it reverse.
Some motors like the one you have, have a wire wound magnet on the outside so it needs 12v to be a magnet. The problem is they usually tie the outside wired magnet internally to the wiring to the rotor inside the motor. So when trying to swap the wires to change the polarity on the rotor, it also changes the polarity on the outside stator magnet, so it keeps running the same direction. If you take the motor apart, and rewire the leads inside, it will run the opposite direction.
I need to start a new thread on something that I started within this post, please stay tuned.
I made the mistake of taking it apart to see what was what and because of the brushes could not get it back together. The fact that it hit the driveway immediately thereafter at an incredible speed did not make matters any better I guess 
There was a very long discussion ( several discussions ) on these blower motors for these 52 magic air heaters a few years ago and because of the size of the motor and it CCW rotation and wanting to get a 12 volt style there was at that point never a replacement found.
I think I may have found one
Single Shaft Blower Motor (GR-055) 1/4" Shaft, CCW, 2 speed, 2 wire (D001-582) that I think is going to work, I ordered it yesterday and will arrive maybe thurs.
My questions are though why the two wires, my original blower motor unless I am mistaken had the two wires as well but I am pretty sure one was a ground that connected to the case, neither of these wires looks like a ground on this new one.
Also is it safe to assume that I cannot use my original 6 volt switch

I know the pictures are bad, my camera does not like the dark. I believe this original motor has a rheostat that is attached there, this original motor had two speeds, high and low, I guess this was somehow controlled by the rheostat?
Any suggestions on what type of switch I need to get, I asked when I ordered the motor but they were only distributors and could offer no advice. Thanks for any help
If this is the case, you can just use a toggle switch to switch between the speeds. If you want to use the original switch, you can just not use the low speed wire and run the high speed wire through the original switch. I would try it on the bench first with the original switch if you go that route.
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