After 5 different 'professionals' rebuilt my gearbox (FMX) and charged me handsomely to do it, I decided to have a crack at rebuilding it myself coz I still wasn't happy with it.
Much to my surprise it was quite an easy job.

Whilst studying how to rebuild one, I learned about oil temps and pressures, and decided that I'd like to know what's going on inside the tranny.

Only way to know that is to have an oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge.

I also didn't like the fact that my gear shifter could be shifted into reverse, by accident, whilst driving, and that I didn't have a reverse light switch on the shifter, so I bought a B&M one. (Works a charm !)

So, there was the motivation to build a shifter console.

Here's what I originally had, and it's a bit girlie for a Dually F350 :


I fitted the shifter, as it comes from the shop, but there's no place for gauges or cup holders (no surprise there), and it needed the reverse lights to be fitted and wired up :


Wood is cheap 'n cheerful, and I had off cuts lying around, so I decided to build a console which would house the new gauges. I bolted a piece of wood to the floor, drilled a hole for wiring to the reverse lights, and wiring for 'P' and 'N' starting (The wiring in the pic is temporary):


The wood piece above acts as a support for the console. I used card, cut to shape, to 'mock up' the console :

 

The console which comes with the shifter is useful to approximate the size of the new console :



Once I had fitted the 'finished product' I immediately realised that I'd done a sh$t job !
In trimming the wood during the build, I'd changed the shape of the console and misaligned the rubber.
I also decided that I didn't like the clocks !
Luckily for me the clocks had been given to me, so I just gave them to a friend.
The bin received the console !




The first build didn't take long, and was a very useful 'trial run', so I started on console number 2. I chose smaller VDO cockpit series gauges, and added another 2 gauges, so that meant more wiring :


Basically the wood is glued and screwed together, with the screws being slightly recessed, and then the recesses are filled in with wood filler. A jig saw is used for the rectangular cut and circular drill bits for the holes (I can't remember what those bits are called) :


The wood is then sanded down, primed with wood primer, filled and sanded again where required, until smooth all over :


It is then ready for the final colour coats. I used 'suede' paint which is half matt and half gloss, and used a roller to give it a rough look :







Once it was installed, I was pretty happy with it, and when driving around, it's easy to read the gauges.

Cup holders could have been cut and fitted instead of gauges, either behind the shifter or in front of it.

So my next job was to make and install cup holders, somehow, somewhere.

 

Console completed, and installed.

 

I decided that any coffee cup, or can of soft drink, must be within easy access while driving. That basically meant on the dash or on the door.

I got a nasty surprise when I received my LMC door panels a few years back. They're sh$t nasty thin things.

So, while I was having fun with the woodwork, I thought a new set of wooden panels with a cup holder on them, and the kick panels replaced with storage space, would do the trick.
I used the LMC panels and carpet kick panels to measure the wood :


Constantly mocking up for measurements was a real PITA :


This picture is purely to show off the 2 most important tools, although opinions vary :
(The reflective crap is required by law in South Africa for the 1 ton truck.)


After a few days work, I mocked up the cup holder and decided I hated it, and no variation of it would work ! LOL :


So, back to square 1, I still need a cup holder.
I'll show the finished panels in the meantime :
I used a router around the edges to give the curved finish.
The strips on the panels are ally strips, cleaned and clear lacquer coated.
The panels are quite heavy, and once fitted, actually reduce noise and give the door a nice solid 'clunk' sound when closing.

 

Cardboard templates for measuring the cup holder/arm rest :


Next came cutting the wood with a jig saw and checking the sizes etc :


Cut, glue 'n screw :


Set in place, sit next to it, start to smile coz you know you're getting there :


Cut holes and fit wood under the cups at the desired height :



Router, sand, filler, prime, sand, paint, sand, paint again :
(A storage space could have been made under the top section if required)


Time to get some coffee and go for a test drive !


The cup holder/arm rest is portable, so allows the bench seat to move forward without interference.

Admittedly, this isn't the most professional job y'all will ever see, but damn it was fun to make.

All that said and done, if I lived in the States I'd get the bench seat with the built in centre arm rest/ cup holder. Yup, that's jealousy talking ! LOL

Cheerz4now

 

looking good, i made a set of door panels a while back and had issues with my window crank hitting the panel and leaving a rub mark around it, just at the base close to the center. Have you noticed a similar issue?

 

Is that dash out of a early sixties? Or was that the way they did it over there? Damn fine work!

 

Bumpside Seems like the right-hand-drive countries all got to keep the bumpside dash in the dent bodystyle. I love the look of the older dash.

Neek-nice work, and thanks for posting it up!

 

It would appear sir, that you have a BEAUTIFUL F350 SCS and I LOVE the Blue!! Outstanding job on the shifter, doorpanels, AND cupholder!! Reps given!!

 

Hi Gentlemen, my ego is riding high this morning ! Thank you for the favourable comments.

Brady, I had that issue when I first got the truck. There's a round,thin, flat washer that slides onto the shaft prior to fitting the handle.
Have a look at part number 40-2608 in LMC's website to see what it looks like. They call it an escutcheon !

Dasher, I hope that the pictures inspire some ideas.

Ted, you're very welcome, and thank you for confirming that the dash is from a Bumpside, I had no idea.

When I first got the truck I overheated the engine ($$$$$$$$$$$$$'s ) and my temp gauge was showing normal.
It was definitely time for new, accurate reliable gauges !

The bumpside dash was easy to modify :

 

Nice work ......

 

would a bumpside dash bolt in to a dentside?

 

Nice work. I love seeing the right hand drive trucks.

 

totally like that door panel it would seem we both have the same idea goin there.... I was wondering though how about the weight of all of it does it affect the door latching properly?? Here is what I have already and it seems like the door just doesn't latch right any more

 

Thank you tbear and bucks.

Bucks, I like looking at any F series truck !! Take yours for example .

Hi Rockittsled, I have no idea if it would fit or not to be honest!
It's worth starting a new thread to ask that question. Someone like Numberdummy might well know.

Hi pboffroad, LOL, I didn't expect to see a picture of the same idea !

Did you leave that hole there to get access to the attaching bolts ?
If yes, you could rather attach permanent nuts and bolts to the door (recess the back of the panel to accept the nut), slide the panels on, and use another nut to hold them, and close up the hole.
(The holding nuts I used were chrome with a domed finish)

Admittedly the panels are much heavier than the OE ones, which gives the 'solid feel' about them.

I had no issues with the latch at all, but, I had already fitted new door hinges in the past and lined up the striker bolt.

The extra weight shouldn't make a difference !!??

Check and see if your door hinges are knackered. Whether a yes or no, you can line up the striker bolt anyway. That should hopefully allow the door to close properly.

What's the design you have there in front of the speaker hole ?