Trac Bar drop bracket question
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
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From: Ohio
Trac Bar drop bracket question
For those of you using the drop bracket for the trac bar from the bronco graveyard, can you post a picture here of how it mounts? When I look at the picture they have of it on their website, in no way does it look like it'd bolt on to they existing bracket.
This is the one I'm talking about: Drop Trac Bar Bracket
This is the one I'm talking about: Drop Trac Bar Bracket
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Greetings NW. I don't have a pic and I used the BDS version but can provide some insight.
The drop bracket nestles inside the frame mounted bracket and is cross-bolted where the existing drop bracket is mounted. Then a longer bolt secures it to the frame.
The drop bracket nestles inside the frame mounted bracket and is cross-bolted where the existing drop bracket is mounted. Then a longer bolt secures it to the frame.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
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From: Ohio
Okay thanks HIO now I see how it'd work. BTW what remover did you use to get the old pitman arm off? I tried to use a remover on mine to swap it for a drop arm and hits the frame before it can wedge around and be used.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
I used a gear puller.
The installation torque is something like 180 ft.lbs. The nut backed off a couple of times so I upped it to 200 ft.lbs. and painted a bright yellow line across the nut and the fat end of the arm so I can visually determine if it has backed off any.
The installation torque is something like 180 ft.lbs. The nut backed off a couple of times so I upped it to 200 ft.lbs. and painted a bright yellow line across the nut and the fat end of the arm so I can visually determine if it has backed off any.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
I used a gear puller.
The installation torque is something like 180 ft.lbs. The nut backed off a couple of times so I upped it to 200 ft.lbs. and painted a bright yellow line across the nut and the fat end of the arm so I can visually determine if it has backed off any.
The installation torque is something like 180 ft.lbs. The nut backed off a couple of times so I upped it to 200 ft.lbs. and painted a bright yellow line across the nut and the fat end of the arm so I can visually determine if it has backed off any.
Well i just rememberd that the frame mounted bracket on my truck isnt set up like that. My had the open end turned the other way. Are they just bolted on? Ill try and swap in one like yours if i can even find one.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Palmyra
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Ohio
Because I wanted to keep the cost down as much as possible. If I have to buy an adjustable one I will though. What was your method of telling whether or not it was centered using the adjustable trac bar? Just if it looked close enough?
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Palmyra
I just adjusted it till it fit right. The adjustment is at the upper end you just screw it out till the holes line up. I got my track bar from sky hacker or super lift can't remember which off hand but it was shipped to my house for like a $140 I think. That was a couple years back tho.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
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From: West Virginia
an adjustable track bar won't fix bump steer, which is what the drop track bar bracket solves... You want your drag link and track bar to be at the same angle.
Here is mine, with both:
btw I couldn't find the right length bolt in a narrow enough size to fit through the tiny hole, so I drilled the bracket and the frame out just a tad, I think it was 9/16 or something that I ended up using, grade 9 hardware. Used all new grade 8 hardware whereever I could.
Here is mine, with both:
btw I couldn't find the right length bolt in a narrow enough size to fit through the tiny hole, so I drilled the bracket and the frame out just a tad, I think it was 9/16 or something that I ended up using, grade 9 hardware. Used all new grade 8 hardware whereever I could.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
it will depend on the lift. But you want your track bar and draglink to be as close to flat as possible for optimal geometry. And you want them to be the same length and at the same angle respective to each other to minimize bump steer. An adjustable arm with a stock pitman is ok on shorter lifts. But if you run a drop trac bar bracket you will want to use a drop pitman as well.
As for the question about the puller, this is the one I used, worked great, my brother found a used one for $30 so I can borrow it whenever I need it. Great deal at $30 but still not a bad deal at $80: Snap on CJ119B Pitman Arm Puller with Pressure Screw | eBay
As for the question about the puller, this is the one I used, worked great, my brother found a used one for $30 so I can borrow it whenever I need it. Great deal at $30 but still not a bad deal at $80: Snap on CJ119B Pitman Arm Puller with Pressure Screw | eBay
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Palmyra
I've got a 8 inch lift coils up front 6 inch lift springs with a factory block in the rear. I got the dropped pitman arm, radius arm drop brackets & adjustable track bar all from sky jacker / superlift & I changed the 77 Y style steering crap over to 78/79 T style. Only thing is like to change would be getting 8 rear springs & getting rid of the factory block.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,931
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
an adjustable track bar won't fix bump steer, which is what the drop track bar bracket solves... You want your drag link and track bar to be at the same angle.
Here is mine, with both:
btw I couldn't find the right length bolt in a narrow enough size to fit through the tiny hole, so I drilled the bracket and the frame out just a tad, I think it was 9/16 or something that I ended up using, grade 9 hardware. Used all new grade 8 hardware whereever I could.
Here is mine, with both:
btw I couldn't find the right length bolt in a narrow enough size to fit through the tiny hole, so I drilled the bracket and the frame out just a tad, I think it was 9/16 or something that I ended up using, grade 9 hardware. Used all new grade 8 hardware whereever I could.
The only problem I have right now is if you look at my picture I posted, I clearly have a different bracket and the drop bracket won't fit in it. So unless you can tell me where to get the right frame mounted bracket like the ones on your trucks that mine for some reason doesn't have, then I'm a absolutely clueless about what to do. I'm adding 6" coils and 4" radius arm drop brackets this spring.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 10
From: West Virginia
gpence- I thought you were suggesting he just go with an adjustable bar instead of the drop track bar bracket. I meant an adjustable bar alone won't prevent bump steer when used with a drop pitman.
The adjustable bar just lets you have more control over centering the axle. it can get kinda off center.
NW150- has your truck been lifted before? I've seen other brands of drop track bar brackets that actually look a lot like what is already on your truck...
The adjustable bar just lets you have more control over centering the axle. it can get kinda off center.
NW150- has your truck been lifted before? I've seen other brands of drop track bar brackets that actually look a lot like what is already on your truck...