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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

Easy, High-Amp Alternator Conversion- Pics!

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Old Jan 9, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #16  
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I admit I'll be using a 60 amp GM 1 wire. I won't be running any winches (wenches maybe), high power stereo, A/C, etc. Just a basic truck. On my 223 it was a snap. As soon as I put the brackets back on after painting, I'll post a pic. BTW stock belt works just fine
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 07:32 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by vntgtrk
I admit I'll be using a 60 amp GM 1 wire. I won't be running any winches (wenches maybe), high power stereo, A/C, etc. Just a basic truck. On my 223 it was a snap. As soon as I put the brackets back on after painting, I'll post a pic. BTW stock belt works just fine
Dude, did you checkout this post? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...do-i-have.html

Interesting info.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by spurredon
Dude, did you checkout this post? https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...do-i-have.html

Interesting info.
I've used GM one wire before and not had a problem. You have to be smarter than the alternator. They don't start charging until you get the rpm up to around 1500. After that they work just fine. Look, the stock generator puts out only 30 amps. I'll take a 60 amp one wire any day.
Oh and the comment in that linked thread about the one wire alternator being nothing but a battery charger? Duh, ya think?
That's what they do. unless of course you're running a magneto. Then you don't even need a battery. Just spin the prop to start it.



CLEAR!!!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2013 | 09:50 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by vntgtrk
I've used GM one wire before and not had a problem. You have to be smarter than the alternator. They don't start charging until you get the rpm up to around 1500. After that they work just fine. Look, the stock generator puts out only 30 amps. I'll take a 60 amp one wire any day.
Oh and the comment in that linked thread about the one wire alternator being nothing but a battery charger? Duh, ya think?
That's what they do. unless of course you're running a magneto. Then you don't even need a battery. Just spin the prop to start it.



CLEAR!!!
Ok, I shall reword that from a battery charger to a crappy trickle charger . And a decent alternator should be putting out at idle.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 09:53 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
Ok, I shall reword that from a battery charger to a crappy trickle charger . And a decent alternator should be putting out at idle.
Not so sure about putting out at idle. If you have high amps, yes. But I'll be running a basic setup with no high draw accessories. Also I kinda did a hybrid wiring on my 9N tractor using a 60 (actually 63 IIRC), amp one wire. I ran the #1 wire thru an idiot light and #2 (both of these from the plug on the alternator) to batt. Almost a direct copy of what Jeep guys use. Maybe that's why I get 13 volts A 500 RPM? No accesories on the tractor whatsoever. Just some LED lights
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:08 AM
  #21  
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From: tujunga, calif
Originally Posted by vntgtrk
Not so sure about putting out at idle. If you have high amps, yes. But I'll be running a basic setup with no high draw accessories. Also I kinda did a hybrid wiring on my 9N tractor using a 60 (actually 63 IIRC), amp one wire. I ran the #1 wire thru an idiot light and #2 (both of these from the plug on the alternator) to batt. Almost a direct copy of what Jeep guys use. Maybe that's why I get 13 volts A 500 RPM? No accesories on the tractor whatsoever. Just some LED lights
With no accessory draw you might be ok, but if you take a nice long ride at night with lights, radio, heater blower going etc I have my doubts. If you have 2 wires on your alternator how can it be a 1 wire, I'm some what confused?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
With no accessory draw you might be ok, but if you take a nice long ride at night with lights, radio, heater blower going etc I have my doubts. If you have 2 wires on your alternator how can it be a 1 wire, I'm some what confused?
It has to do with the internal parts
Summit Racing® One-Wire Alternator Conversion Kits SUM-1667 - SummitRacing.com
If you're using the one wire parts it still has to get above 1500 RP
M to start working. At least that's my understanding of it. I'm not sure exactly what's going on. I don't have a wiring diag for the tractor, but I did use a kit similar to the one in the link. The one I'll be using on the '59 has already been converted, I can tell by the plug used in place of the double wire plug they come out with from the factory.
BTW can you imagine using the 30 amp generator in the night ride you outlined?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:31 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by vntgtrk
It has to do with the internal parts
Summit Racing® One-Wire Alternator Conversion Kits SUM-1667 - SummitRacing.com
If you're using the one wire parts it still has to get above 1500 RP
M to start working. At least that's my understanding of it. I'm not sure exactly what's going on. I don't have a wiring diag for the tractor, but I did use a kit similar to the one in the link. The one I'll be using on the '59 has already been converted, I can tell by the plug used in place of the double wire plug they come out with from the factory.
BTW can you imagine using the 30 amp generator in the night ride you outlined?
I still have a 30amp generator on my 223. I made a 2200 mile round trip to New Mexico this past summer in 100+ temp running the air conditioning day and night, CD player and lights and had no problems at all. I do plan on putting an alternator on it eventually, I've been saying that for years
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #24  
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JEGS Performance Products 10140 JEGS 100-Amp 1-Wire Conversion Kit
This looks like it may be worth wile. The price is right. And the last time I was at Pull & Save, GM 10 SI alternators were the most abundant. Ant this price you could feasibly set up two alternators for around a hundred bucks. Then you have a spare.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:52 AM
  #25  
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OK, if I reading this correctly you didn't actually have a GM 1 wire, you converted it to one. When I change the one on my Ranchero and put one on the Panel eventually I still think I'll go with the Ford unit.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:11 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by hiball3985
OK, if I reading this correctly you didn't actually have a GM 1 wire, you converted it to one. When I change the one on my Ranchero and put one on the Panel eventually I still think I'll go with the Ford unit.
I should clarify, sorry. I'm starting with a truck that's void of any wiring.
I bought a 'complete' basket case. I'm starting to find out now what's not in the basket
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 11:25 AM
  #27  
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I posted this in another thread if you didn't see it. It may be of some help if you will need to wire the whole truck, these are excellent.
Classic Car Wiring . Com : Home of the original color laminated car wiring diagram
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 06:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by vntgtrk
JEGS Performance Products 10140 JEGS 100-Amp 1-Wire Conversion Kit
This looks like it may be worth wile. The price is right. And the last time I was at Pull & Save, GM 10 SI alternators were the most abundant. Ant this price you could feasibly set up two alternators for around a hundred bucks. Then you have a spare.
If you plan to run a junk delco, you probably should carry a spare. Back when I was in the repair business, I replaced dozens of Delcos for every Autolite/Motorcraft.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 06:44 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
If you plan to run a junk delco, you probably should carry a spare. Back when I was in the repair business, I replaced dozens of Delcos for every Autolite/Motorcraft.
Having been a mech by trade all my life, I've seen equal numbers of both.
Guess it just matters what ya like.
 
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