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So I just got a letter the other day about a cruise control recall on my 96 f250. I'm going to assume the dmv gave ford my information because as far as I know ford wouldn't know I owned the vehicle because I bought it from a private party.
Anyhow the service manager at the local ford claims it is a 4 hour fix and I need to leave it there tomorrow. 4 hours? really?? Wouldn't it just involve splicing the line and adding a fuse?
Anyway with my terrible luck I wanted to know if there was any way to quick disable it so my truck doesn't burn down tonight before I bring it in
Thanks for the time and effort to resolve my issue fte, yall are the best
Is this the part to unplug? or is it somewhere else? I don't use it much if ever so unplugging would be fine for now.
I don't mean to offend any service techs on this board but I don't like dealerships. I don't like the idea of some service guys messing with my truck for 4 hours. It makes me extremely uncomfortable thinking about all the possible stuff they could mess up/ruin.
Honestly my bad experience comes from when I took my wife's 04 pt cruiser in for the 90k service (timing belt and whatnot) a while back. I got the car back and everything was fine except the brakes were really squishy/messed up feeling. I complained about it and they said "its normal".
Anyhow a month later the brakes completely stopped working while my wife and kid were in the car. We could have been killed.
It turns out somehow one of the dealership techs "accidentally" put motor oil in the brake system instead of brake fluid. It caused over 3k in damage and I ended up having to get a lawyer to get them to pay for it. It was a huge hassle. Ever since then I literally havn't gone to any dealer lol
You need to take it in - while the actual change only takes about 20 minutes if they don't find anything else wrong, if the switch is clearly leaking or they run into problems, they may have to go as far as changing out the master cylinder as well as the pressure switch at the tip. If you live in Rustlandia and removing fasteners is a crap shoot, yeah, I can see why you'd block out 4 hours.
The *normal* procedure is to visually inspect the switch for leaks and if there are none, then install a new sub-harness with a fuse and a notification tag. It's not just splicing in a fuse.
This is what the current recall harness looks like, the one with the blue tag. It connects to the correct switch at the end of the master cylinder:
Originally Posted by Jhouse85
So has my 17 year old truck just been lucky so far to not burn up or was this a very isolated issue?
Anyway thanks I'm unplugging it and hopefully It will be fine until I can decide if I want the dealer to have it for 4 hours :\
It's not just a fire issue, though there were many people who've lost their Fords to this fire problem and some of those even had it burn down their house. It's also a safety issue because you could have a brake fluid leak there on the pressurized side of the master. That's, uh, bad.
Alright thanks you have convinced me to take it in tomorrow. Thanks for helping me understand in simple layman's terms. Alright well I reckon I'll take my baby in tomorrow since I ain't got much work anyway. Concrete pumpin is mighty slow in this economy. The only driveways, swimmin pools and foundations I've done lately are for those elite folks in palo alto.
Oh well I don't mind CARB is gonna put me out of business anyway. Apparently I need to replace my 10 year old concrete pumps for 50k a pop. How am I gonna do that?
Can't wait until I get enough money to flee this communist state like all the other small business's
ive never heard of this before.. maybe I should give the local dealer a call..
Its is a certain production date? ive got a 97 f250
im pretty certain its never been in for any recalls.. I heard something about gas tank straps too... hmm
It runs from 92-03 for many models, but the recall keeps expanding in scope. Any Ford that uses that type of master cylinder switch is suspect.
Edit: By the way, yes, unplugging it was the temp fix to keep them from going on fire while the recall harnesses were developed, but it's not a permanent fix and if the switch contacts corrode because you unplugged it, you can actually exacerbate the problem and cause it to start leaking when it wasn't before, per a Ford tech I talked to.
Also, if you don't take the truck in and it goes on fire anyway, Ford isn't responsible because they notified you and you never took the truck in. If you have the recall done and the truck self-ignites somehow anyway, Ford is not off the hook because you did take all reasonable steps to prevent any problem.
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