Can't get RABS codes
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2004
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Can't get RABS codes
I searched the forum, and didn't see this problem anywhere. I have a 2000 4wd Ranger with rear anti-lock brakes. The ABS light comes on every time I start and drive less than 100yds. It stays on until you shut the truck off. I found the test plug, and followed procedures to get the codes, but the ABS light won't flash at all. I checked fluid level and fuses. I replaced the rear sensor about a year ago, when that went I lost speedometer and OD off light stayed on. I wouldn't rule the sensor out, but I'd like to get codes. To get codes I grounded the Black/Orange wire with the key in Run position.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Did the problem come about after some event, like an off road session, snow storm, system repair, fluid flush, ect???? Master cyl fluid level & condition is ok....Right????
If so & your 4WD has 4WABS, check both Front caliper ABS sensors for debris contamination (could be mud, ice, caliper dust, ect), wire, or connector damage or contact corrosion.
Any other GEM controled things acting out, if so, maybe the GEM has a problem????
If all thats ok, maybe consider having a brake shop use their ABS scantool to have a look for GEM stored ABS codes.
Some ABS brainstorm thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.
If so & your 4WD has 4WABS, check both Front caliper ABS sensors for debris contamination (could be mud, ice, caliper dust, ect), wire, or connector damage or contact corrosion.
Any other GEM controled things acting out, if so, maybe the GEM has a problem????
If all thats ok, maybe consider having a brake shop use their ABS scantool to have a look for GEM stored ABS codes.
Some ABS brainstorm thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
This is RABS no front sensors. No out of ordinary driving, it just started one day. Fluid is full. I read about a plug under the drivers seat that can get wet, my tail lights are fine, though. I will check that and do ohms check on the speed sensor just in case. In tech notes there is troubleshooting for no codes, I can't find it online. I believe it says if no flashing light refer to section D. I hate to throw money at this with no idea what it is.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Do you have the extended cab model, if so, then the TSB concerning the connector & under seat wiring harness feed through wiring insulation scuffing Rockledge discovered may be in play & probably belongs on your suspect list. He also posted a link to the wiring TSB.
Interesting that the GEM won't give up the ABS codes & is why I ask if any other GEM controlled things were acting out & if so, the GEM itself belongs on your suspect list. A brake shop could quickly determine if it has a problem.
Don't begin to throw parts at it until you get a positive trouble shooting result, then replace the troubled part.
Seeing as how you've had problems with the rear ABS speed sensor, probably a good idea to put it, its wiring & electrical connection back on your suspect list.
Interesting that the GEM won't give up the ABS codes & is why I ask if any other GEM controlled things were acting out & if so, the GEM itself belongs on your suspect list. A brake shop could quickly determine if it has a problem.
Don't begin to throw parts at it until you get a positive trouble shooting result, then replace the troubled part.
Seeing as how you've had problems with the rear ABS speed sensor, probably a good idea to put it, its wiring & electrical connection back on your suspect list.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jul 2004
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SHO, if I erased the codes, wouldn't it still give me 16 flashes? With the key in Run position I disconnected the plug and grounded the Black/Orange wire. Pretty sure I did that right.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St Louis
Yeah, that sounds right.
Check CJB fuses F9 & F30 (ALWAYS HOT), F11 (HOT IN RUN/START) and F14 (HOT IN RUN.
Check the BPP switch input to the RABS module. It should be ground when the pedal is not touched and should be HOT when the switch is activated.
Other than that, it's probably the module or a wiring concern. If it were the rear diff sensor, you should be getting a DTC 6, 9, or 10.
Check CJB fuses F9 & F30 (ALWAYS HOT), F11 (HOT IN RUN/START) and F14 (HOT IN RUN.
Check the BPP switch input to the RABS module. It should be ground when the pedal is not touched and should be HOT when the switch is activated.
Other than that, it's probably the module or a wiring concern. If it were the rear diff sensor, you should be getting a DTC 6, 9, or 10.
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
OOOOPS, looks like I need a scantool for my feeble GEM of a mind, looks like its had another "senior moment" lol. Anyway look to projectSHO89's suggestions as they're top notch.
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