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I'm in the middle of removing my intake manifold to fix a bad manifold gasket that was causing a coolant leak. While removing the COP boots I found coolant down in the plug holes. As I mentioned on the coolant leak thread, I was surprised the truck ran well with all the coolant in there, but it looks like the boots were doing their jobs and there was no liquid contacting the connections.
What I would like opinions on is whether I should go ahead and change my plugs since I'll have easy access anyway with everything unplugged and out of the way. (I do plan on having the manifold on during the change to avoid getting gunk and/or tools down in the intake ports.) My truck has just over 80k miles on it and to my knowledge the plugs have not been changed. I also planned on replacing all 10 COP boots as well, but not the COPs since they are a little $$$ and I've had no hints of problems. I'm just nervous about changing the plugs considering the possible blow-out issue, but I know it may need to be done eventually.
Not that hard, here is a how to with pictures on a V10 2V 6.8L. I would do it with 80k on those especially if you are already doing this other work, less to remove.
I did mine at 73,000, and was surprised that some of the tips of the plugs were rounded off. Put some NGK's in(no reason,just what NAPA had) and my fuel mileage went up,and truck just plain runs better.
Not that hard, here is a how to with pictures on a V10 2V 6.8L. I would do it with 80k on those especially if you are already doing this other work, less to remove.
It's funny you posted a link to this your thread/tutorial. I just found and read it a little while ago, and it doesn't look to be too bad of a job. Makes me a little less hesitant to go ahead and change them out. Hopefully one of these days I'll be able to write up something helpful like that. I should take more picture of the intake manifold removal and do a tutorial thread on that.
I did mine at 73,000, and was surprised that some of the tips of the plugs were rounded off. Put some NGK's in(no reason,just what NAPA had) and my fuel mileage went up,and truck just plain runs better.
I've read multiple times to only use the Motorcraft plugs, but I've also read a few people using other brands with no problems. Makes me curious if it even matters since I haven't read anything bad happening to anyone using other reputable brands. Hopefully my fuel mileage will go up as well since I'm only getting around 8.5-9 last time I calculated.
I have a 2000 Super Duty w/ 95000 miles on it. I bought the truck used from a person when it had 62000 miles. They were negligent when it came to maintenance, and had no records of maintenance. I have done everything to it now except for the plug changing. Just made a trip with my 5th wheel and have had a huge drop in mileage and a small drop in power. There is no engine miss, and she purrs like always. I buy gas whereever, so I doubt it's gas problem. I would guess it's time to jump on the plugs. My question is, has anyone stripped the threads pulling the plugs? Looks like lots of folks are successfully replacing plugs, so just wondering. Thanks.
I haven't read anything on here about anyone stripping the plugs while removing them. However, just to be safe my plugs will be soaking in PB blaster until I remove them in a few days. My biggest fear is blow-out after I put the new ones in if they aren't torqued correctly, thus my recent purchase of a brand new in/lb torque wrench. I figured the 3 foot long 300 ft/lb torque wrench I used to do my ball joints might not be quite precise enough.
Thanks for the reply. I guess talking about it is scarier than doing it. Now, all I need is a free day or two to do it. Oh yeah, I'm in the same boat with a too big torque wrench. Guess I better do some shopping.
I ordered a TEKTON 2432 1/4-Inch Drive from Amazon along with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter for around $30. I was a little concerned with the accuracy, but I tested it and it seems to be fairly accurate. I used it to put my upper and lower manifold back together with the new gasket and the only thing I noticed is that it barely clicks at lower torques, but up around final torque values it is easier to hear and feel.
Torque wrench wise I'm using a Wright USA made brand, model 3447 3/8" drive 15>75 ft/lbs range, set to 22 ft/lbs. I find this new on eBay quite often for $50 or so.
Mine is used only for Ford plugs and always kept in its case in the tool box.
When buying or using a torque wrench, use one that has therange to cover what you’re using for by 20%. In other words, don’t rely on either the top or lower 20% of the wrench.So, if you have a 100inch pound wrench only use the 30 to 70 % portion of it ifyou want an accurate torque. At work wecalibrate all our torque wrenches every 6 months. We find that even Snap-On wrenches will varyup to 4% on the lower and upper settings from the factory. When your done withthe wrench loosen the setting to the lowest point to keep the spring from beingcompressed and loosing it’s accuracy
Just something to think about and it may not make a differencein this application.
When buying or using a torque wrench, use one that has therange to cover what you’re using for by 20%. In other words, don’t rely on either the top or lower 20% of the wrench.So, if you have a 100inch pound wrench only use the 30 to 70 % portion of it ifyou want an accurate torque. At work wecalibrate all our torque wrenches every 6 months. We find that even Snap-On wrenches will varyup to 4% on the lower and upper settings from the factory. When your done withthe wrench loosen the setting to the lowest point to keep the spring from beingcompressed and loosing it’s accuracy
Just something to think about and it may not make a differencein this application.
Very good advice! We used a lot of torque wrenches when I was working on jets in the Navy and we were always told to never use the upper and lower 10% of a torque wrenches range and to try to get as close to 50% as possible by selecting the correct torque wrench for the most accurate torque. We usually used dial wrenches in the Navy, but I was always told to return click-type wrenches to 0 when done with them, and I carry on this habbit with my own wrenches.
For this same reason, when I did my ball joints I bought a new torque wrench with a higher range since I would have been within 20% of the upper range of my old one. And I bought the inch/lbs one since I would have been within 20% of the lower range of my now medium sized torque wrench.
Close, just further south. It is Owen's Peak (8,400 feet) and a few other surrounding mountains taken from the Rademacher Hills in the Indian Wells Valley. The white mountains are a bit further north and on the opposite side of the valley. To give you an idea, most of the structures you see in the photo are in the town of Inyokern off of 395 which runs across the base of those hills. The view from my front porch is pretty similar, just about 10 to 15 miles closer to the mountains than this. On a clear day (which is about 355 days out of the year!) I can almost see Mt Whitney from my house.