power steering conversion donor shaft
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From: Michigan
power steering conversion donor shaft
I am in the process of putting a ps saginaw box on my 65. I had planned on cutting down the tube, shaft, and housing but picked up a power steering column from a 78 or 79 real cheep that is supposed to work. However, it looks like my original housing had a slot with a tab through it that activates a switch, I think park start safety switch that the new one does not have. Also original has a raceway for the turn signal wiring the new one does not have. And last, there is no flange attached to the new shaft to bolt to the rag joint on the power steering box, just a splined shaft with a groove in it. Do these use two couplers, one on the box and one pinched on the shaft? Maybe I need to just section out and weld my originals back together to work? Any thoughts from someone who has done this? Thanks, Tom
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1965/77: The NSS is located at the bottom of the steering column. There are two different types for 1965/66, one for 1967/77.
DOTZ-7B097-B (replaced DOTZ-7B097-A & C5TZ-7B097-A) .. NSS Selector Lever ~ 1965/77 F100/350 ~ Attaches to shift tube thru hole in steering column shroud.
1978/79: The NSS is located on the transmission. C4 uses a different switch than C6.
You sure the column you bought is from a 1978/79?
ALL 1965/79 F100/250 2WD's, 1967/79 F350's and 1976/79 F100/250 4WD's use steel/rubber steering couplers (rag joints). Bolt to the flange of the steering shaft.
1966/75 F100 4WD, 1967/75 F250 4WD, 1975 F150 4WD do not use a rag joint. The steering column lower shaft connects to the input shaft of the steering box with a clamp & thru bolt.
1980 and later columns do not have a rag joint either. They have a one piece lower steering shaft and coupler w/a nylon washer that connects to the input shaft of the steering gearbox.
DOTZ-7B097-B (replaced DOTZ-7B097-A & C5TZ-7B097-A) .. NSS Selector Lever ~ 1965/77 F100/350 ~ Attaches to shift tube thru hole in steering column shroud.
1978/79: The NSS is located on the transmission. C4 uses a different switch than C6.
Originally Posted by 70Broc
There is no flange attached to the new shaft to bolt to the rag joint on the power steering box. 
ALL 1965/79 F100/250 2WD's, 1967/79 F350's and 1976/79 F100/250 4WD's use steel/rubber steering couplers (rag joints). Bolt to the flange of the steering shaft.
1966/75 F100 4WD, 1967/75 F250 4WD, 1975 F150 4WD do not use a rag joint. The steering column lower shaft connects to the input shaft of the steering box with a clamp & thru bolt.
1980 and later columns do not have a rag joint either. They have a one piece lower steering shaft and coupler w/a nylon washer that connects to the input shaft of the steering gearbox.
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From: Sun River St. George
If you plan to use the newer column and cut and section it to fit I'd recommend you get a tilt column and start with that. If you lay both columns on the bench you can easily see where you need to cut and section to save the NSS and wire chase from the 65. I shorten the column 2 inches, save the NSS slot and wire chase. I use the tilt upper section and use a wooden bearing/shaft support on the bottom. Wood beats that plastic Ford used. Make the wood bearing a hammer tap fit into the bottom of the column. Saw off 2 1/2 inches off the shaft and grind it to a double d that fits a borgeson joint splined for the ford box and DD. I use the later big rubber seal, original firewall bracket and clamp, 78 TS switch. I got a nice 14 inch steering wheel off ebay. This deal is not expensive and can be accomplished by anyone that can weld. Using the borgeson and dd deal eliminates and welding of the steering shaft (safety). IMHO! I forgot the shift tube. Cut it 2 inches and line the NSS actuating arm up with the slot in the column.
Last edited by William; Dec 26, 2012 at 03:48 PM. Reason: shift tube
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
If you plan to use the newer column and cut and section it to fit I'd recommend you get a tilt column and start with that. If you lay both columns on the bench you can easily see where you need to cut and section to save the NSS and wire chase from the 65. I shorten the column 2 inches, save the NSS slot and wire chase. I use the tilt upper section and use a wooden bearing/shaft support on the bottom. Wood beats that plastic Ford used. Make the wood bearing a hammer tap fit into the bottom of the column.
Saw off 2 1/2 inches off the shaft and grind it to a double d that fits a borgeson joint splined for the ford box and DD. I use the later big rubber seal, original firewall bracket and clamp, 78 TS switch. I got a nice 14 inch steering wheel off ebay. This deal is not expensive and can be accomplished by anyone that can weld. Using the borgeson and dd deal eliminates and welding of the steering shaft (safety). IMHO!
Saw off 2 1/2 inches off the shaft and grind it to a double d that fits a borgeson joint
splined for the ford box and DD. I use the later big rubber seal, original firewall bracket and clamp, 78 TS switch. I got a nice 14 inch steering wheel off ebay. This deal is not expensive and can be accomplished by anyone that can weld. Using the borgeson and dd deal eliminates and welding of the steering shaft (safety). IMHO!No 2WD has a lower steering shaft and coupler assy, so no need for a Borgeson replacement. If the OP buys a 1978/79 tilt wheel column from a 4WD, getting it to fit properly will be a PITA.
1978/79 tilt columns will not be found with 3 on the tree, A/T and 4 speed only. And, the tilt wheel feature operates via the T/S handle by pressing it forward.
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From: Michigan
Thanks Guys: I obviously bought the wrong one and should have taken mine apart first so I had an idea what I was buying. Picked up a motor perch from a salvage yard and this column was out and lying on the floor of the truck. It had about 1.5 inches of shaft sticking out from the bottom of the housing, basically the spline and bolt groove. He said it was out of a 78 but must have been a 4wd I guess. (It has a 2" round plastic bushing in the end of the tube for a bearing, not the small tapered one like my original.)I also picked up the shorter firewall bracket from the truck with the perch because someone posted it will fit better and I hope they are right.
Cutting and welding the shaft and tubes sounds like the easiest way to get the fit I need. I guess I will mount the box, line up the shaft and rag joint, and measure from the center of the housing mount bolt holes to the end of the shaft and cut the three pieces accordingly.
The spring clip that snaps onto my shifting tube and slides the NSS is broken. Does anyone know if these are available anywhere? Thank You
Cutting and welding the shaft and tubes sounds like the easiest way to get the fit I need. I guess I will mount the box, line up the shaft and rag joint, and measure from the center of the housing mount bolt holes to the end of the shaft and cut the three pieces accordingly.
The spring clip that snaps onto my shifting tube and slides the NSS is broken. Does anyone know if these are available anywhere? Thank You
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From: Simi Valley, CA
DOTZ-7B097-B .. NSS Selector Lever ~ 1965/77 F100/350 / Obsolete
FRED GRANDE FORD in Casco MI has 1 = 586-749-3141.
GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 18 = 800-543-4959.
CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 2,923 (!) = 800-476-9653.
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From: Michigan
Thanks Bill: I am happy to be able to get one.
Also glad to hear there is a difference on aftermarket qualitiy. I will check here before ordering anything else to find out who has the best quality stuff.
Also glad to hear there is a difference on aftermarket qualitiy. I will check here before ordering anything else to find out who has the best quality stuff.
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