Hello all,
Since I always come on here begging for information but add little for others I thought I would add some pics and info from my electric fuel conversion.

The folks at Strickley Diesel in Phoenix didn't mind my 156 questions and took into account my stated skills and abilities so they got my order for the parts and pieces. I told them I could weld, bend cut, brackets and tubing and wanted to use JIC (aka AN) fittings and a custom "kit" was supplied to my door.

The top end is the Driven Diesel regulated return kit. Parts and pieces fit well but the best part is they supply the best set of instructions I have ever laid my eyes on.



The 2WD F-Superduty differs underneath that most of your trucks. Locations will of course differ but wanted to show my layout. The USA made filterheads and Baldwin filters as supplied by S D and a Ford S-D pump. Layout got real long when placed in line per the flow so we put the filters together and looped the lines to make it more compact. Brackets are shop built.



Here is where the folks at S D really saved me some time and trips to town. I told them I wanted to go JIC or as you guys likely know them "AN" type fittings. Here is some adapters they came up with that I would never dreamed were available. Ford push connect to #6 JIC male.



Some of the smalls that make it all work. #6 or 3/8 JIC tubing nuts and sleeves. about .40 a pair scored from Ebay shipped to thehouse and cheaper than barbs and hose clamps and make a forever joint. Behind is a roll of 3/8 steel tubing from auto parts store, 50 cents a foot by the roll.



Couldn't resist showing one of my cooltools. My hydraulic crimper set. I can do single flares, GM and Ford push connects, bubble flares. Makes light work of flaring the 3/8 steel for JIC but it can be done with much cheaper tools, search the net. All bends were done with a cheapie bender as sold everywhere and my sons strong wrists.



Now if you dont want to make the flares all you have to do is buy the ready made brake lines in the lengths you want and use inverted flare fittings (standard brake system type flare and nut) instead of JIC at the filterheads. Shown is a cool adapter fitting I lucked across in the Jegs catalog. #6 AN to 5/8-18 power steering adapter they call it, about $4 Not shown because I didnt have one in the shop is the tube connector required between them. Just tell the guy at the counter you need the adapter to connect two 3/8 brake lines. This set up will adapt you from a brake line tube flare to the JIC (AN) type so you can run a nice braided hose for your flex joint between engine and tubing you run up the frame. All for now and hope this helps a few folks.

 

Congrats, and very good pics. Which kit did you buy?

Rep sent to you.




PS: you wrote: Strickley Diesel and has to be Strickly Diesel.

 

Really interested in the push-to-connect to JIC piece. Is that a S D only thing, or off the shelf part?

 

I am jealous of your tools to be able to do this the way I want to do mine.

 

Jim, Dennis got the fittings for me, contact info below. Only place he couldn't get me to JIC was off the fuel valve so we will be doing ?? there

Dennis Schroeder
Partner – Strictly Diesel
Strictly Diesel - Diesel Performance Parts
dennis@strictlydiesel.com
623-582-4404

 

Ya I didn't do so good in that class

Driven Diesel and Strictly Diesel are two divisions of the same place. Their regulated return kit for the OBS trucks isjust what goes into the engine compartment. The rest of the "kit" was put togther based upon what I told them my wants and needs were, I cant say enough about Dennis and Strictly Diesel. It really saves a knuckle head like me a lot of time and money to have the bits put together and placed in a box. Contact info is in reply above.

 

If you dont mind what did the whole kit cost you?

 

I dont mind at all but bear in mind two things. I purchased all this over a year ago and there is more to it than I have shown so far. A ready to put in place wiring harness with relay and processor was made up just for me (but they now sell it on the site). I also got an Autometer electric fuel guage, 6 Extra Baldwin filters, return line fittings etc. Was just over $1100 for everything but loose those EXPENSIVE extras and spares and the price goes down a lot. Prices for the big items are on the web site, or were last I looked. The regulated return system by itself is like $560, just what goes under the hood. What they do is price you the major items then you tell them how much you think you want to fab and find locally and since they install them in the shop they know you need X,Y, and Z to complete it and send you a list with price. Then you can remove or add at will. They dont sell it as a complete kit per say.

 

OK, thank you Butch.

 

Since this is the most recent e fuel thread i figured id ask here since I'm reading on it now.

Am i right that tims write up left the 3/8th stock line in there? curious cuz so many people follow Tims write up but everyone says the stock line is restrictive.
Haven't gotten to read that far yet but I'm curious if his has return on it.

...dang internet went down. Doing this on phone sucks. Thank goodness i have most write ups printed off lol

 

Cale Thompson blew a block into 3 pieces using the stock fuel lines.

 

Yeah I wasnt planning on leaving the stock fuel lines in there. Im just trying to find a complete guide that has it the way i want it. I think i got it figured out though. no internet/cable means lots of reading.

 

I don't know why you would go to all the trouble to do something different? Cale Thompson made over 100psi of boost and blew a block into 3 pieces, utilizing the stock fuel lines. I would say that is plenty of fuel flow. Running 30-50 psi of boost isn't an issue at all, on the stock lines. Really the mech fuel pump is the limiting factor.

 

Oh now i getcha. For some reason my mind was thinking you were blaming the stock fuel lines for his blowing of the block. lol

Hadnt had much coffee then.

We'll see. I guess id rather just have the ability to flow more as well as get rid of the rusty old lines.

 

I haven't read all of Tim's build up and cant speak for flow vs HP vs line size but in simply looking over my OEM set up I can't see any reason to go over 3/8" unless you going to going to remove everything back to the tank pick up tubes and start over? Originally my truck was 3/8 on the pressure side on what would seem to have been supplied with the engine from Navastar (?), then adapted down to 5/16 at the flex hose by the front corner of the block and size carries all the way back to the tanks with several restrictive fittings in route, the plastic 90s at the tank selector are especially notable in that respect.