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Old May 24, 2003 | 10:31 PM
  #1  
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

I think I've got one of the "which came first, the chicken or egg type questions", and it may be a big duh, but here goes:

To know what I'm buying for my rebuild I really have to take the engine in and let the machine shop do the cleaning, rework heads etc. then find out how much they'll have to bore and all before I order parts... the crank journal grind and all that is determined by wear? Pistons size dependent on how much boring of cylinder walls is necessary too?

I know what type cam, timing set, did know intake but waiting on answers about EGR now in another post.

What do I have to know to buy crank?

To buy pistons?
 
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Old May 24, 2003 | 10:53 PM
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From: Jax FL
Machine Shop Diagnosis

get the edelbrock with the 4V egr plate, save some weight
 
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Old May 25, 2003 | 12:28 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

what you need to know is what size over the bore is, what size under the crank is, rod and mains.
 
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Old May 25, 2003 | 06:50 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

If the crank isn't scored from debris in the oil, and the journals are in good shape then it can be generally just polished, or even left alone (standard size) providing there aren't any bad grooves or burrs. If there is damage it will have to be turned to an undersize, and that size all depends on how much meat has to come off to make things good again.
 
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Old May 25, 2003 | 07:09 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

Thanks for the replys! As to the crank undersizing... I've read to leave a ridge so as to not have to use ... please forgive the ignorance here... two piece spacer something or other? Is this like an inner race to take out the slop? If you know what I'm not quite grasping is it something I have to be concerned with and tell the machinist to do?
 
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Old May 25, 2003 | 08:05 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

What do you mean by leave a ridge? When you take your crank to the machinist, they will measure it with a micrometer, turn it to the next undersize if needed, and micropolish it. All you have to do then is buy main bearings to fit that undersize.
 

Last edited by cartwright; May 25, 2003 at 08:11 AM.
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Old May 26, 2003 | 12:14 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

I'll look up the reference and post it soon.
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 04:09 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

GT40, you mean to get the dual plane 4v manifold with egr right?

also, what do you mean save some weight?
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 06:28 AM
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From: Jax FL
Machine Shop Diagnosis

well my 400 intake is cast iron, the edelbrock is aluminium. but i have a 1971 400.
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 09:06 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

Okay, that's what I thought but wanted to be sure that EGR plate wasnt' some kinda of port block or something.

Speaking of intakes weight, never had one in my hand so how much will the stock intake weigh roughly?
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 10:12 AM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

I dont know the exact weight, but my back got a rude awakening when I pulled my stocker off.
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 12:30 PM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

I here that! It's good to know what I'm encounting so when I remove the bolts I don't just think I'll slip a thin putty knife under it to move it aside or something.
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 06:02 PM
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Talking Machine Shop Diagnosis

Yeah, the manifold would snap that putty knife pretty easy!
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 07:59 PM
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From: Jax FL
Machine Shop Diagnosis

40 to 60 pounds, the aluminium one is about 20
 
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Old May 26, 2003 | 08:27 PM
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Machine Shop Diagnosis

That's like trying to pick up a manhole with your arms stretched out! Didn't realize they were that heavy, just didn't even think about it. How much does the whole block with all accessories weigh, gestimated?

I haven't gotten to the part of taking the engine out or apart yet, but will soon.

I'll be looking to get a good engine stand when I start to rebuild.
 
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