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So, I just finally fired up my truck after doing a TON of work on it this week. And, its blowing oil out of turbo pedestal where the new o-rings were installed. So, I have to pull it again.
HOWEVER, I hope I can do this without unbolting the up pipes. Is this possible?
Reason I ask:
I just replaced the clutch with a new Valair SMF 400hp/900tq clutch. With the tranny out, I rebuilt my up-pipes and welded in some new Volant bellows. The upper flange on each up pipe is welded onto the up-pipe itself now. That makes it damn near impossible to get to those four bolts with the tranny in the way. Its hard enough without it bolt in.
So, can I pull the turbo off of the pedestal first? Then pull the pedestal without pulling the Y that the up pipes bolt to? I just rebuilt the turbo while it was out, so the bolts all have recent anti-seize on them. So, they should break loose easily.
If not, I may have to pull the tranny again. Which I do NOT want to do.
Is it possible?
Oh, and here are some pics of the up pipes I built:
You can pull the turbo without pulling the up pipes and collector but you can't pull the turbo off the pedistal, you have to pull the turbo and pedistal at the same time.
Well, you can pull the turbo off the pedestal, somebody here did it one time, but you need the pedestal like I have, which is rare or something.
Dont' try to pull the turbo without the pedestal.
Well, I have two different pedestals. I have the original 94.5 that was on it and one from a 95-97. I actually used the 95-97 to modify it and delete the EBPV. I cut the door out of the turbo and plug welded everything, and completely pulled out the valve on the pedestal and plugged it as well.
I wonder if there is in fact a difference in the pedestal height or a difference in how they seal. I cannot imagine there is though.
It seems to me that I could unbolt the lower four bolts from the bottom of the turbo, then unbolt the collector and it would slide out.
Oh well, what is one more day. FWIW, I am becoming efficiently good at working on these trucks. I've done too many in the last week to not have something go wrong. Its just that the up pipes I built were designed to never leak again, which is why I rebuilt the turbo while i was in there.
Lets see, I replaced the o-rings on the oil pan where the dip stick slides into it, rebuilt the turbo, deleted the EBPV, built the up pipes, installed the new clutch, pulled the oil cooler and rebuilt it with new o-rings, rebuilt the rear driveshaft with new u-joints, new output seal on the tranny, and several other things I cannot even think of right now.
I might as well just install the intercooler now too. I just got my E99 spyder yesterday in the mail.
With the design of the 94-97 where you have to pull and install the turbo with the pedestal attached, it is VERY easy to have one of the o-rings get pushed off to the side of the galley port. When the o-ring gets pinched between the block and milled surface of the pedestal, it will not allow full compression on the o-ring. This can hold for a short time but eventually the oil will work its way past the o-ring and it will leak.
I guess that is why Garrett changed the design in 99.
I think if I still owned one of the OBS trucks, I would always have an extra set of pedestal o-rings sitting around since it's such a PIA!
__________________ Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels (970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
With the design of the 94-97 where you have to pull and install the turbo with the pedestal attached, it is VERY easy to have one of the o-rings get pushed off to the side of the galley port. When the o-ring gets pinched between the block and milled surface of the pedestal, it will not allow full compression on the o-ring. This can hold for a short time but eventually the oil will work its way past the o-ring and it will leak.
I guess that is why Garrett changed the design in 99.
I think if I still owned one of the OBS trucks, I would always have an extra set of pedestal o-rings sitting around since it's such a PIA!
Tell me about. I tried to get the turbo out without pulling the tranny. Its NOT going to happen with the new up pipes I built. So, its coming out right now.
I have two extra lower o-rings that came in the Garrett rebuild kit, but hopefully the Viton ones you gave me will be okay.
i plan to make similar uppipes but for the upper flange part i am going to weld the current flange to to pipe so it wont move and use the factory gaskets because i dont see the need to fab the flanges while i have a perfectly good flange just weld em and be done with em
i plan to make similar uppipes but for the upper flange part i am going to weld the current flange to to pipe so it wont move and use the factory gaskets because i dont see the need to fab the flanges while i have a perfectly good flange just weld em and be done with em
The factory flanges are cast. So, welding to them will prove to be very difficult not to mention they are 3/4" thick as well. Welding .090 wall tubing to it isn't likely going to happen very easily and be anywhere close to strong.
I'm all for welding to cast, but welding .090 wall to cast is another thing all together.
I'm really confused? Unless your uppers going into the collector are to close to the rear pedestal bolts?
Pulling the trans is easy after you have done it 3 or 4 times. I can have mine out in an hour now. haha.
Because of the way I built the up pipes. They recessed into the turbo a little bit to hold the gasket into place. So, its either pull the exhaust manifolds or pull the tranny. Honestly, the tranny only took 30 minutes to pull.
I just reworked them though, so if they happens again, I should be able to make it work easier.
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