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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Testing the Block Heater

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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 11:50 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel
we're one message out of synch here. lets see if i can beat your reply to my last post.

yeah, my old cord was always warm but worked fine. my new homemade connection, though is always dead cold even after being plugged in for 4 hours. so while a warm cord is not definitely going to burn your truck to the ground, i like the peace of mind knowing that my chances of finding my truck on fire are now significanly reduced.
I'm going to check that, even when mine was working it was always warm.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #17  
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One thing that could be overlooked easily is using the right size wire extension cord for the amp draw. I would always go with at least 12 gauge wire and as short a length as you can, 25 ft would be better than 50 ft. I've seen cords melted or heat damaged at the connections, and using not heavy enough gauge wire cord on high amp motors could damage the motors. I have not had to use my heater so don't really know if it even woks. I probably shouldn't have said that
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 02:00 PM
  #18  
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very true. a bad connection at the extension cord to bumper plug interface could cause the same thing.

i've also recently switched my extension cord from a cheap made in china orange one (16 ga stranded wire, right?) to a better quality yellow one (14 ga stranded, if i'm not mistaken).

does color indicate extension cord wire gauge? i always thought it did, but now i can't remember. my best cord is blue and i always just assumed that was 12 ga, but now i'm not sure.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 02:56 PM
  #19  
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Yes, very true on the extension cord. I have the same cheap orange one run out there...I should probably put a better one on it. I just can't stand the thought of leaving one of my good HD extension cords out in the weather! I guess I should probably suck it up. I just thought that the ol' orange one would do just fine for just that. The amp draw is not that much, is it?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 02:59 PM
  #20  
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its a 1000W heater. at 120V, that's 1000/120 = 8.3 amps. a 15 amp cord should be OK, but if its a junk cord, who knows...
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #21  
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I don't think they are color coded but that's not a bad idea, a long time ago they they were all black. 12 gauge may be a little over kill on the cord but still can't hurt. I thilnk the heaters only draw about 10 amp or a little less IDK just keep in mind that the length is important and clean connectors, plugs need to be clean for good connection.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:34 PM
  #22  
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They are not color coded. I buy 220 14 or 12 gauge stranded and make my 120 gauge cables.

If one leg fails, I have a second leg, and if I need 220, I just have to swap ends.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 03:34 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel
its a 1000W heater. at 120V, that's 1000/120 = 8.3 amps. a 15 amp cord should be OK, but if its a junk cord, who knows...
yeah, corrosion in the cord for the truck would cause more resistance thus making higher amp draw and creating heat.

The cord for the truck always seemed a bit flimsy to me.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #24  
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Well, I went to go unplug my truck the other day, and I happened to notice that one of the wires on the truck side of the plug looked like it had been cut, so it wasn't even connected. Don't know if it had been like this (not sure how I couldn't have noticed!), but it definitely wasn't working like this. So I went to the store and got a new male plug end to put on there. While I was replacing the plug, I got my meter and tested the ohms - it was reading 14.8 at the end of the plug. I didn't test it at the heater, but according to the advice I received on here, that sounds about right. Got everything hooked up and plugged it in overnight. When I went out this morning, the window was almost completely defrosted from the heat of the block heater (with the defrost **** turned on), just like my old truck used to do. So I guess it is working now. Maybe I don't have to replace it after all. We'll give it some time and see. Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Talyn
yeah, corrosion in the cord for the truck would cause more resistance thus making higher amp draw and creating heat.

The cord for the truck always seemed a bit flimsy to me.
William,
In MY universe, ohms law dictates that higher resistance means lower current. do the math.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 10:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Ken_C
William,
In MY universe, ohms law dictates that higher resistance means lower current. do the math.
I know this. =)

I make stupid posts all the time without using my brain.

happens.

Resistance can cause heat issues though.

I for some reason always do it backwards in my head and think resistance means higher draw.

Been this way for years.

You know how hard it is to do electronics classes with that stuck in your head?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 10:51 AM
  #27  
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Though, Thinking on it, I just had a realization and.

....

I think my brain reconfigured.

I suck at remembering any formulas.

So, I tend to try and remember things other ways.

I'm good with math and cannot remember formulas, I'm a real winner arn't i?

I think a lot of the stuff I've done with DC involving resistors has screwed up my perception on amperage.

Should teach people amperage and how its effected first.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 02:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by OldWoodsDiesel
its a 1000W heater. at 120V, that's 1000/120 = 8.3 amps.
...then 120 volts/8.3 amps = 14.45 ohms. around what one would be looking to see on their ohm meter connected to the 2 flat prongs on the plug. you definitly dont want to see 0.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 09:01 PM
  #29  
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I have had the cheap orange cords get mighty warm on my psd in the past.I use my welder extension cord now days!
 
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Old Dec 24, 2012 | 03:09 PM
  #30  
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A short 12ga extension cord should be good enough to do the job.
 
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