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Hey, first post. Just bought a 2001 F-350 V10. Its got about 400,000 on the body and about 89,000 on the drivetrain and motor. I replaced the tie rods and front brakes (had a real bad shake in the front end) It fixed the wobble almost but I still need to get an alignment. I went to get it inspected afterwards and they failed me for a broken headlight, ONE "bald" rear tire, and because my brush guard has 3 littles tubes in front of the lights. No bigge, just been a pain so far. Any suggestions on a good programmer for MPG. I havent crawled underneath the truck to look at the tag on the axle yet to know what gears I have.
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Does anyone know if these trucks already have the wiring harness for cab lights in the a pillar, for the trucks that don't have them? Also, there's a problem with the electric locks for the doors. If I hit the lock button, only the door that is being operated locks, and NOT he whole truck. This happens on both driver and passenger front doors. Sometimes it won't even lock the door your operating the button from. Any suggestions. Thanks.
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Georgia
Had same problem with my locks.The motor in the door lock assembly has an internal thermistor for overload protection.Symptoms of thermistor failure are weak or intermittent lock cycle.My truck sat for eight months prior to me purchasing it and I actually thought that the linkage was binding or seized from lack of use.Lock would "try" to cycle,kind of wiggle.Thermistor increases resistance in response to heat of current and when it goes bad it stays at increased resistance.I tried looking EVERYWHERE for a plate thermistor with same values to no avail.You may bypass thermistor easily instead of buying a whole door lock actuator assembly.As long as you use lock as it should be used you don't need thermistor ie. not holding lock button down any longer than it takes locks to cycle.Search "power door locks fixed" in s.duty forums.I followed post by "kalsc",my locks now work great.Super easy fix!
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