Charging or drain issue
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Buckley, WA
Charging or drain issue
So a while back I did the 87-91 headlight harness upgrade. Just recently my brights must have either burned out, or are shorting somewhere? When I click the brights my headlights go out completely, And the strange thing is that it creates a load on my charging system.
At idle with no accessories my batteries read 14.2v. When everything is on (lights, heater, electric fuel pump, wipers) it drops to 13.0v. Ok, I understand it creates quite the load...but is causes my cold starts (after sitting 12 or so) to be rather difficult. When I first turn the key my e pump turns on, then when I hit my glowplug switch the volts drop like crazy. Barely turning over fast enough to make her start.
I got a good deal on some optima red tops so I switch my old sears batteries out, this did help but something is still not right.
So I'm wondering if something might be causing it to drain (high beams ? ) or if my alternator is struggling (-7 years old)
Any thoughts/suggestions/comments would be great!
At idle with no accessories my batteries read 14.2v. When everything is on (lights, heater, electric fuel pump, wipers) it drops to 13.0v. Ok, I understand it creates quite the load...but is causes my cold starts (after sitting 12 or so) to be rather difficult. When I first turn the key my e pump turns on, then when I hit my glowplug switch the volts drop like crazy. Barely turning over fast enough to make her start.
I got a good deal on some optima red tops so I switch my old sears batteries out, this did help but something is still not right.
So I'm wondering if something might be causing it to drain (high beams ? ) or if my alternator is struggling (-7 years old)
Any thoughts/suggestions/comments would be great!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Co
So with truck running and high beams turned on the volt gauge drops big time? If so first thing I would do is fix the brights after that measure how much amperage the alternator is putting out under full load (if its dropping a full volt Im guessing your maxing it out but measure to see) might also see if any parts store has a on vehicle tester for alternators. Not as accurate as taking it off and testing but can give you some good info all the same.
Other thing you want to test is with truck and everything turned off measure how many amps are being pulled on the batteries (amp clamp around the positive cable after right side battery if you have one)
Other thing you want to test is with truck and everything turned off measure how many amps are being pulled on the batteries (amp clamp around the positive cable after right side battery if you have one)
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Buckley, WA
So with truck running and high beams turned on the volt gauge drops big time? If so first thing I would do is fix the brights after that measure how much amperage the alternator is putting out under full load (if its dropping a full volt Im guessing your maxing it out but measure to see) might also see if any parts store has a on vehicle tester for alternators. Not as accurate as taking it off and testing but can give you some good info all the same.
Other thing you want to test is with truck and everything turned off measure how many amps are being pulled on the batteries (amp clamp around the positive cable after right side battery if you have one)
Other thing you want to test is with truck and everything turned off measure how many amps are being pulled on the batteries (amp clamp around the positive cable after right side battery if you have one)
Not sure what you mean with your second paragraph, "after right side of battery" both my batteries are on the right side lol ? ...and no I don't have an amp clamp, I'll look into that tho
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
That's a great set of video's you made there, Tom. Thanks for posting them again.
A bad connection or battery cable can also cause slow cranking like video #1 also. Mine was cranking a little slow and I could see the connection at the starter glowing hot. I ended up having to replace the starter anyway, the lug broke out when trying to remove it.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Buckley, WA
YES this is it! compare the sound from your first video to my video
struggling to say the least....
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
definitely either a bad starter, bad positive cable, or both.
also with the glow plug controller bypassed with the manual toggle switch, you have no after glow. that is why it keeps dying after starting
also with the glow plug controller bypassed with the manual toggle switch, you have no after glow. that is why it keeps dying after starting
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Renton, WA
Wow I wouldn't want to rely on that starting on a snowy morning. As you know I'm new to these but I think you have a few issues there, each making the other worse. Seams to me Tom has a point about your starter and the slow cranking is your biggest issue. Of course check cables and connections. On a cold morning after a bit of cranking without starting I'd go around and feel the cables, connections, starter etc for heat. Anything hot is bad. I actually melted a bad lead cable clamp a while back.
Also to toss in, seams you have an issue with it staying running, that should be worth dealing with. Even my junk stays running once it fires. Also I don't know if you start it every day but I and a few others have had issues of optimas connected in parrallel draining each other over time. I installed a pac-500 continious duty 500 amp solenoid as a battery isolator for good measure.
Also to toss in, seams you have an issue with it staying running, that should be worth dealing with. Even my junk stays running once it fires. Also I don't know if you start it every day but I and a few others have had issues of optimas connected in parrallel draining each other over time. I installed a pac-500 continious duty 500 amp solenoid as a battery isolator for good measure.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,573
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
sitting should not make any difference. my 88 will sit for weeks without firing. i will go out in a few and fire it up. the last time i started was back in the end of september when i parked it after putting the rear springs in it.
here ya go. it is around 43 degrees outside.
here ya go. it is around 43 degrees outside.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Buckley, WA
Opossum, the not staying running was a combination of slow cranking and like Tom said, no after glow. Usually one it fires I flip the plugs on for a couple seconds and it keeps running...but I didn't for videos sake lol
In process of changing starters, top bolt is major PITA.
In process of changing starters, top bolt is major PITA.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,573
Likes: 5,609
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
yes it is. the funny thing is, no matter how many starters you change, you still forget how to take it out and have a hard time. but it goes back in super easy.
make sure you disconnect both batteries before you start taking the starter out.
make sure you disconnect both batteries before you start taking the starter out.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Buckley, WA
here is a quick video comparison....i found a starter laying around in my IDI parts pile so its used with unknown miles...but seems to spin better
i dont have ignition on so it will not start, just showing spin speed
old starter
new (used) starter
i dont have ignition on so it will not start, just showing spin speed
old starter
new (used) starter