Had to replace the right rear caliper, rotor and rear pads. Nothing left of them. They were done on Sept. 27,2011. Total miles about 15,000. Has any body had any issue like that?

 

yes, i just had to do the exact same thing. then it was still dragging after the new parts. so i cleared all the codes,i had abs, vss, cruise showing up because i unpluged the vss. but have only drove it once since then. but it seemed fine during that short drive. if it hangs up again i'll post about it.

 

What pads did you use? Sounds like you had other problems.

 

Did you do the slide pins?


Welcome to guzzle's Front Caliper Slide Pin Upgrade Web

 

Slide pin lubrication is CRITICAL. Typically stuck pins result in just the pad on the caliper side (inside) getting used up. A quality caliper grease is key to lasting lubrication - never use bearing grease or God forbid, anti-seize (I use dielectric grease with excellent results )

I recommend checking slide pins at every tire rotation. It adds another 15min if they are OK. All ya gotta do is loosen the slide pin bolts and slide the pin with the bolt. If it slides easily tighten it up and move to the next one - if not, remove the caliper and re-lube the pin(s). You can do this check with the tires on and truck on the ground.

If the rear pads wore evenly and expired before the front pads, I would suspect either a front brake issue or mis-matched pads. It's possible ceramic pads (useless junk, IMO) up front and cheapo organic pads in the rear could cause excessively short rear pad life. Unlike your typical passenger car, our trucks have much more rear brake bias - so the rear brakes get 'used' quite a bit.

I am quite fond of EBC brake pads and plain 'ole rotors. (I use lifetime warranty rotors from O'Reillys) The Yellowstuff pads provide very noticeably better braking than any over-the-counter pads you can purchase and I have yet to warp a rotor running them. The Greenstuff are still superior to parts-store pads and will last a little longer than the Yellowstuff.

 

What also happened was the caliper just disintegrated. One of the pistons just broke apart. It looked like ceramic pieces. Bought new ones at Advance Auto Parts, better warranty on these parts.

 

Jason's advice on slide pins in spot on. I was turning rotors every 6 months until I finally pulled my head out and serviced the slide pins. Huge improvement in braking performance, too. I did have a seized rear caliper that I inherited from the PO, not sure how long it was that way, though.

 

i agree stuck pins or caliper

 

After I found my slide pins seized, I serviced them with high temp white lithium grease. Still working great 15k miles later. Be very careful to not put too much grease in there, and getting the little boots on right is critical to the longevity of the grease job.

 

Like this?



This happened after a slide pin stuck, wore the caliper-side pad down to nothing, what was left of the pad slipped out and the caliper pistons extended out of the caliper - contacting the rotor and rotating into the carnage you see here. No, that wasn't covered under the lifetime warranty...

There is a 99% chance your rotor also looks like this:



This rotor had previously been unevenly worn due to a stuck slide pin in its 360k mile lifespan, so as you can see - it was REALLY bad.

 

Wow, that is some serious carnage!

 

Thats what my caliper look liked. So grease the pins and not the slides?

 

Yeah, if I'm gonna foul something up - I don't fool around!!!

I was driving 250+ miles/day and came home with a grinding noise. Burning some midnight oil, I yanked a front tire off and found spent pads - so I swapped them out and went to work the next day. It was still making noise, until the caliper broke...

 

You HAVE to grease the pins - there are no 'slides'.

The pins are the part the caliper actually bolts to. There is a rubber boot on the 'pin' and that part should slide in/out of the caliper bracket easily.

If the pin is 'hopelessly stuck' you can get a new bracket and pins for about $16 at the autoparts - likely 'in stock'.