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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Automatic choke setting

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Old Dec 28, 2012 | 09:24 AM
  #16  
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It may be that the factory setting is too much choke. If it opens fully by itself it would seem to be working.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
It may be that the factory setting is too much choke. If it opens fully by itself it would seem to be working.
Here is what the choke plate looks like, with engine cold,prior to pressing gas pedal (inside of carb is clean, the dark spots shown are from the lighting in my shed) Hot air tube is ok.

This is set at 2 rich as called for on emission sticker, I drove it a few blocks to the store yesterday, and when I went to come home I had to hold gas pedal to floor to get it going, after that it started fine. So maybe I should lean it to 1 rich, or maybe to the index mark?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 01:02 PM
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"Prior to pressing the gas pedal" tells you nothing about where the choke is set. The choke and it's linkage gets stuck on the fast idle cam system, and it sits there till you hit the gas pedal, which relieves the problem with the fast idle cam and let's the choke shut.

If you really want to adjust the choke and see what's happening, you have to hold the throttle to the floor while you are turning the adjustment. Then the choke and the linkage will move freely and you can see how much tension is on it.

I recommend when you do this, you push the throttle wide open ONE TIME and get someone to hold it open for you, or rig it so it stays open on it's own. If you keep opening and closing the throttle while playing with the choke, you will end up flooding the engine and possibly fouling your sparkplugs. Each time you move the throttle it squirts fuel down into the engine.

Chokes are a pain to get right, so don't get frustrated if it takes a few mornings to get it right, or to figure out if something is wrong, and then it takes a few more mornings to get it right.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #19  
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I think I have too much tension on the choke spring, I drove it today, and had it up to operating temp, choke plate was in same position as in pic I posted above. I checked,and it has 7.4 volts at the wire going to the choke cap. So maybe I will back it off to 1 rich, or the index mark and see if it will open better
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 08:30 PM
  #20  
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That's what I'd do - back it off one notch at a time and see what happens. As cold as it is getting up there right now you'll know in a hurry.

And, ~7 volts is probably right for your carb. I forget (sorry) which carb you have, but it may be marked on the housing what voltage it takes.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 09:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
That's what I'd do - back it off one notch at a time and see what happens. As cold as it is getting up there right now you'll know in a hurry.

And, ~7 volts is probably right for your carb. I forget (sorry) which carb you have, but it may be marked on the housing what voltage it takes.
I have the Carter YFA
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 09:29 PM
  #22  
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I don't know about the YFA. But that should be the stock carb so the wiring should be correct.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 10:14 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I don't know about the YFA. But that should be the stock carb so the wiring should be correct.
Yes it is the stock one it came with. I'l keep tinkering with it
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 10:24 PM
  #24  
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That's the only way to find the right setting on an automatic choke. When everything was new the factory setting got you pretty close. But with millions of hot/cool cycles on the choke spring it is surely different than it originally was, so you have to tune it. Trial and error. Hang in there, you'll get it sorted and be a lot more experienced for it.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #25  
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Yes, factory settings with the choke are for brand new choke caps. His might be worn, AKA: Spring stretched from heat a little...

Good call Gary.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 02:51 PM
  #26  
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By design, none of us should be driving these trucks, they are way past the age they were designed to run. Ford wanted us to buy new trucks and not fool around with this old stuff for years and years. But the parts stores like us
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 02:56 PM
  #27  
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I have fair-haired child status at O'Reilly's. Only the new guys ask my name or phone #, and most know what truck it is. But, all the money I have and will put into it is still far less than a new one. And, I'm having fun.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #28  
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I will be playing with a diff carb, I have to take this one back to the salvage yard where I got it, they took Mine off a truck they weren't suppposed to , Told them I could not switch it till I had another in My hands here
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 09:31 PM
  #29  
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That's a bummer. Ask for credit on a future purchase since you've tuned and repaired the carb.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2013 | 09:47 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
That's a bummer. Ask for credit on a future purchase since you've tuned and repaired the carb.
Oh yes I intend to. I will make them give Me another one to take home, and if I am satisfied with it, I will return the one I have now
 
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